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F500 Brake Job

  #16  
Old 07-22-2018, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
Went to town today. Picked up a few things




Not enough brake clean, those cans don't hold much and go so fast.
 
  #17  
Old 07-22-2018, 11:59 PM
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In order to get the wheel cylinders out, do I have to take bleeder valve off first? Just looking at the bleeder, I can see they wonít come off easily . They look to rusted on pretty good, almost forming a solid piece.

or can I just take the two bolts holding the cylinder onthe backing plate off and the cylinder comes off with bleeder valve?
 
  #18  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:04 AM
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I figured one can cleaner for each wheel. I can always get more. It was on sale for like 275 a can
 
  #19  
Old 07-23-2018, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
In order to get the wheel cylinders out, do I have to take bleeder valve off first? Just looking at the bleeder, I can see they wonít come off easily . They look to rusted on pretty good, almost forming a solid piece.

or can I just take the two bolts holding the cylinder onthe backing plate off and the cylinder comes off with bleeder valve?
Just take off the two bolts on the backing plate. The cylinder will come out with the bleeder. It might be rusted to the backing plate so tap it with a hammer from the backside.
 
  #20  
Old 07-23-2018, 09:38 AM
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Not that far along yet. Still have to get the drum off of the rear pass side. Then take all four cylinders off. (Uppers and lowers on both sides) see if they are salvageable or if they need to be replaced. Get them done then look at the front.
 
  #21  
Old 07-23-2018, 07:18 PM
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Giving up on the $&@$ drum for tonight. I heated it up, hit with hammer, still wonít budge. Put the ol PB blaster to it tonsit over night.

Letting myself cool down before I do something stupid and start reaming on it and break something.

installed the new fuel pump. Cleaned the carb.

My tires were delivered today!
 
  #22  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:07 PM
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This is what I used for the screws. Drag link socket and set on low torque.

 
  #23  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:27 PM
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I ordered two drag link sockets. Should be here Wednesday. I got the three screws out with a chisel I modified. I just canít get the dang drum off. Going to stop at advanced auto and see if they have a drum puller to borrow.
 
  #24  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:45 PM
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I would assume that replacement rear drums for your truck are like mine, no longer available. Since you need to pull the hubs and replace the seals anyway, I wouldn't try to remove the drum from the hub, just pull the hub and drum as a unit. There is really no need to remove the drums from the hubs unless you are going to replace them. There is a lot less chance to damage the drums if you pull hubs and drums together. You can bend the steel part of the drum prying and hammering on them and destroy a perfectly good drum.
Mark
 
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:45 PM
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You can make your own easily enough. Make sure your shoes are backed all the way off, there could be a ridge that's hanging up.
And what Mark says too. If the drums need to be turned it's better if they are on the hub.

 
  #26  
Old 07-23-2018, 09:01 PM
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You're into the bigger trucks now, so I doubt your auto parts store will have anything. NAPA has some pullers, but check to see if you can rent one first. They're getting into the big bucks for something you'll use only once. And if you do go the puller route, be sure to have two lug nuts on at least full depth. Don't want to see your name in the obits.

 
  #27  
Old 07-23-2018, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
I ordered two drag link sockets. Should be here Wednesday. I got the three screws out with a chisel I modified. I just canít get the dang drum off. Going to stop at advanced auto and see if they have a drum puller to borrow.
I don't know if there is a way but, there may be a ridge on the back of the drum that is catching on the pad. Common thing for drum brakes I hear. If there is a way to back off the pads from the drum the it might come off.
Is there a little wiggle like the drum is caught on something? or is it frozen to the hub?
 
  #28  
Old 07-24-2018, 06:40 AM
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No wiggle room. Canít back brakes off. Tried but canít get either of the two star adjusters to turn.
 
  #29  
Old 07-24-2018, 06:48 AM
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How do I take drum and hub off together? I know remove the bolts on the end cap. Then there should be some kind of nut inside. Does that take a special 4 pin spindle socket? (Read that somewhere). Then what?

what will need to be replaced after removing. If all looks good, can it be reinstalled?

Ive never gone this deep into a truck. This is all new to me. Kinda scary.
 
  #30  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 View Post
How do I take drum and hub off together? I know remove the bolts on the end cap. Then there should be some kind of nut inside. Does that take a special 4 pin spindle socket? (Read that somewhere). Then what?

what will need to be replaced after removing. If all looks good, can it be reinstalled?

Ive never gone this deep into a truck. This is all new to me. Kinda scary.
This is my experience with my F350 rear wheels YMMV.
The plate that the bolts are holding on is the axle itself. Once you remove the bolts and break the seal, the axle should pull straight out be careful as diff fluid will most likely come out when you take the axle out. Inside should be a tube with nuts and a locking plate on the end of it, these nuts hold in the wheel bearings. The shape or size of these nuts I do not know. To remove the hub the nuts have to be undone and the front bearing pulled out, then the hub will pull off. The rear bearing should be retained by a seal. One hub assembly removed.

After removing it is preferable to clean the bearings and spindle, repack the bearings with grease, replace the rear seal and make sure your diff fluid is not low.
 

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