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So that is not an AWD with VCU, but rather a 4WD transfer case. Driving without the front driveshaft installed should not have caused accelerated damage to the transfer case.
Been driving the Explorer daily still and it hasn't seemed to be getting any worse.
Or better, but sure would not have expected that either
But underneath after doing oil change yesterday and checked things out to see if anything was noticeable.
Grab the rear driveshaft where it comes out of transfer case and seems pretty sloppy.
Very little amount of lube sprayed around from seal, minimal even compared to axle seals etc. on the rest of the Explorer.
Case still full of lube up to the check plug.
But a good amount of movement when I push up and down on the shaft.
Was looking at the u-joints and twisting each to see if any play, but felt this instead.
Pretty good thunk after maybe 1/16" travel upwards as I pushed the shaft towards floorboards from underneath.
Looking at outside of case, I am wondering if seal and bearing could be pulled from outside after removing driveshaft?
OR... case have to be drained, disassembled, tore down, to get at bearing at rear output ?
Anyone done this before?
Guessing not as common as the rear pinion issues, but seems to be where I been getting noise and vibration from.
Can anyone help me out identifying the transfer case model?
Tried best I could to get info of tag on it.
Wondering what I am going to find when I pull the rear driveshaft off case.
Hoping to find an exploded view to see what might be involved if I have to replace a bearing or component at the rear output.
Started wondering if there is just a splined part going into the transfer case needing replacement, or is there a bearing supporting it on it's outside?
If a bearing in the "tail-shaft" area of the case does it need disassembly to be replaced?
Appreciate it
THANKS
Still searching....
I have been hoping to find something showing what is at the rear output of the transfer case.
I tried pulling the driveshaft off and hoped I could get the flange off in order to see what is going on.
Got the shaft off and REALLY had to work to get the nut loose from the case's output shaft.
Got that far but without knowing what else was hooked to what, didn't want to wreck anything.
Removed the nut hoping I could get the flange off and see what was allowing the slop and play.
A couple taps with smaller hammer, a small par between the backside of flange and the case's housing, but worried I might break case or something.
If you provide me with an e-mail address for you and a brief description of the request (my memory is not that great anymore) in a Private Message I'll forward the service manual steps for replacing the seal on the transfer case as well as the disassembly and reassembly steps for the entire AWD transfer case. There are a few special tools called out but maybe you can get by without them?
SO has anyone actually ever tore into the rear output of one of these cases?
I tried again yesterday.
I am thinking I need to get at either bearing 14 and/or 20 in the graciously provided pic (thanks very much for that help ).
I been trying to get the flange off, but afraid I am going to be damaging something else inside.
I removed the 4 mounting bolts for the driveshaft yoke and then used a pair of those bolts hoping to drive the flange off the output shaft.
Used two 180 degrees from one another and set an aluminum block between the case and the end of those bolts.
Drove the bolts in hoping to drive flange off the output shaft.
Never got those to separate.
Got a little travel but flange and shaft stayed as a pair.
I am wondering if either of those bearings can even be accesses without disassembling the case??
I had tried to take some videos showing the radial play, movement, and slop the flange and output shaft have to see if I show even be concerned (Pretty sure it should be way tighter than it is).
BUT...hard to hold phone, take video, push the parts around.
Ended up with nice footage of my hand and forearm mostly.
Don't think it would provide much if any insight.
Once more, appreciate any and all ideas
THANKS ! ! !
Been trying to upload a jpeg but no luck
Anyways...
Noise is seeming more and more like it isn't coming from the transfer case.
This trying to find it and figure it out is getting tiring, frustrating, and confusing.
Whatever it is is getting worse so I am guessing I will know for sure eventually.
I did squeeze in about an extra quart of fluid into the transfer case this weekend.
Thought I would see if any different.
Put some fresh lube in rear.
Checked front and it was full.
BUT...I see a little grease coming out of the outboard CV boot on driver's side.
Wondering if what I am hearing is the axle....?
Seems like a little play on both CVs but nothing too terrible.
Sounding more and more like a hub as I drive on the highway though.
Even changes "tone" as the steering wheel gets turned.
Hoping to get it done before weather gets too cold.
It changes both directions.
Doesn't seem more distinct one direction over the other.
I had convinced myself that it was the left front hub and replaced that a while ago.
Disappointed when the noise stayed same.
Trying hard to make sure I know what the heck I am doing instead of just throwing parts at it, but that means I have to know what the heck I am doing.
Not very often that happens
Thinking I might try the right hub and/or left axle shaft cv...
The battle goes on.
Trying hard to make sure I know what the heck I am doing instead of just throwing parts at it
Seems like a good excuse to buy a used Steelman Wireless ChassisEar. I was disappointed mine didn't work well to pick up the clunk noise caused by a slightly loose anti-sway bar end link, but it works very well on bearing type noises and transfer case clunks.
Got me thinking....
I have a couple go-pro style cameras...wonder if they would show anything if I tried to position them under the Explorer?
The wireless mics would probably be better and easier.
Maybe I will do some shopping and see if I can justify.
I know that I had been told to use a laser thermometer here when trying to figure out which hub was bad on my Expedition.
Finding the warmer one worked good.
I been trying to use that to locate source of this noise without any luck so far.
Appreciate the idea.
Sounds like it might be helpful.
THANKS ! ! !
07-24-2018, 07:07 AM
I was disappointed mine didn't work well to pick up the clunk noise caused by a slightly loose anti-sway bar end link, but it works very well on bearing type noises and transfer case clunks.