While I'm not that new to towing (on my third trailer now), I am a total newbie to the world of trailer AC. Got a new trailer over the last winter, and didn't ask any questions about it, and in the huge stack of information about the various components, there's nothing on the AC unit, not even the manufacturer name. Just a handwritten note on the build sheet that it's a 15k BTU unit.

Most of my camping is boonbocking up here in the mountains of Canada. So if I want AC, I need it to run off the generator for an hour or two in the evening while the kids go to bed and the air cools off. I'm in the market for a new generator as well, as my old cheap one died recently.

Trailer is a 2018 Grand Design Imagine 2400BH. as I say I think the AC is a 15k BTU unit, but I don't know anything more.

So, my questions are:
1) I've heard some newer AC units have a built in "soft start" feature from the factory, how would I find out if mine has this?
2) is the factory soft start as good as the MicroAir "easy-start" that I've heard is the best aftermarket solution?
the bonus question is 3) aside from a quality Yamaha or Honda 2000w x2 parallel setup, what's a good cheaper alternative for someone who values quiet operation? There's so many "other" branded inverter generators on the market these days.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

I've been researching this question, also. If you go to the micro-air website, there is a half hour YouTube video there where they show the installation into a unit. As part of this test, they also install a soft start capacitor. Their tests then show how each of these mods affect the starting amps. If you watch this, you'll learn enough to look inside your own A/C and probably figure out if it has the soft start cap.

 

I have had a Champion 4000 generator, a Honda 5000 generator, and now a Honda EU7000is. It's been my experience that you get what you pay for with generators. The Champion would barely run my 15k AC on really hot days. The Honda would run everything in the camper with no issues in 100* heat. Also, if you look closely at the construction, you'll notice thinner metals, smaller filters, and other cost cutting on the cheaper generators. I put around 1000 hours a year on generators boondocking at MX races, and after 2 years, the Champion still ran, but started consuming oil. The Honda was just like the day I got it.

One of the families that we race with has 2 Ryobi 2300 watt generators (1800 running I think). At the last race, it was around 95 degrees and his generators kept tripping off. I looked at the screen, and they weren't sharing the load equally, so one would trip, all the load would shift, and then the other would trip off. We ran a cord to my EU7000, and it powered both 15k A/C's all day long. It was loaded to 5000-5200 watts and would surge to 8000 when we initially loaded it, but the 7000 handled it well and was still super quiet.

 

Not sure if you tried these yet, but (1) you can ask this question on the Grand Design Owners forum ("what AC do I have") or (2) contact Grand Design RV directly to ask. They've been very responsive to my inquiries.

 

Funny enough, I keep trying to join those forums, but it seems like invite only and I don't get access. Don't know what the deal with that is. Will try asking GD directly. I'll dig up the paperwork and see what they say.

 

The earlier comment about getting what you pay for with gennies is on target based on my experience. When folks came into Bristol for the race they had all types. Honda and Yamahas never brought service calls. Other brands were basically throw-aways. I saw some rated as high as 5,000 watts that would drop off to just over a 100 volts when the AC tried to start. I never checked the frequencies, but would have been surprised it it didn't drift. Often times folks fail to realize even when an AC is running that you can't tell if the compressor is running hot due to bad power. Local dealer I know was carrying one of the popular no-names briefly. Asked him why he stopped handling them. Said too unreliable and too many customer complaints.

My old Yamaha 2.4 still starts the first pull every time and even though it looks like crap from riding around in my service truck for years, it is over ten years old and still will run my AC with no questions asked. If you intend to keep it a while, buy one that will go the distance is my two cents.

 

Interesting that you brought this up....the Champion was a 4000/3500W generator, and the Honda was a 5000/4500W generator. One of the main differences was the engine....the Champion had a 6.5HP motor and the Honda had a 13HP motor. No load VAC was about 125, frequency was about 62. Full load was 115 and 58ish....and would drop to 110 and 57 when starting with a noticeable engine bog. Not so with the Honda....due to better electronics and the larger engine. Fuel consumption was similar.

 

Is there an easy explanation for what a soft start is?

 

There a ton about it on Youtube. Basically technology driven software device that reduces amp draw during appliance start-up. Likely of lesser benefit if relying on shore power, but helpful is enabling use of smaller than normal generator size to run air conditioner. Pretty pricey! This is not the same as a standard hard start kit. Reportedly can use Honda or Yamaha 2000 watt genny on eco setting to run AC, although in the video I watched it struck me the amp draw was still pretty high to ensure that would always work.

 

I'm no expert, but it's a "smart" electrical device to ramp up the load slowly for the AC so that there isn't the huge spike in current draw for the first couple of seconds. Some AC units use (apparently) three or four times the wattage during startup compared to running.
"rule of thumb" for running a 15K AC is to have 3500W generator. But once running that AC unit only uses 1700W or so.

I'm not an electrical engineer, so I can't explain the wiring exactly, but I understand it enough to believe it.

From the reading I've done, if you want to run a 15k AC on a 2000 Generator 1) it better be a "good" generator and 2) you better shut off all the other loads! I can foresee myself wanting to run my little exterior fridge at the same time, and a few lights, and you just know one of the kids will use the toilet so the water pump will kick on. I think 2000W would be too tight for me. Maybe the newer Honda 2200W models would work. I'm trolling the classified in my city for a 3000W Honda right now. Although those are so danged heavy. I'd love the 2x 2000W (OR 2x2200W Honda companion setup, but brand new, that's more cash than I'll be able to find this month.

 

There are a lot of used Hondas out there with some searching. One of the things folks sometimes forget is the amp draw increases with ambient temperature. The AC specs are for amp draw on the roof at 95 degrees. That is the temperature on the rooftop unit. I happened to get a rooftop temperature the other day and it was 120 degree which translates into about an additional 2.5 amps. Long story short, with temperatures the way they are go bigger with the genny. You will be glad you did. My thought.

 

One thing working in my favor is that I mostly camp in the mountains, so the sun goes down pretty early, providing shade, and the air doesn't hold heat like it does in other parts of the world. Heck, I've been doing the trailer thing for eight years, and this is the first time I've even had AC. Only been a few nights were I really missed it. But now that I have it . . . . .

 

I installed the MicroAir EasyStart on my 15K BTU air conditioner. It easily starts and runs with my Westinghouse iGen2500. The installation was pretty straight forward - if you have done any residential wiring you will have no problems.

 

This is the 1st time I have heard of microair soft start. I have seen soft starts on industrial motors,but it never crossed my mind for RV air conditioning. I need this on my AC. My yamaha 3000 gen struggles to get my AC started,but will run it after it gets going..This would fix this issue .