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Dummy plugs and standpipe replacement.

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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Dummy plugs and standpipe replacement.

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2018, 08:37 PM
NY Serkan Oncel
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Dummy plugs and standpipe replacement.

Hi there all. No start after replacing dummy plug and standpipe on driver's side. I used the starter wire to build oil pressure but no luck. Koeo dash oil gauge is at the bottom, but while cranking it goes up and goes down after 3-4 sec later when i let the ignition go. Ficm sync is 0 koeo. The truck had hot no start problems before i started to replace the dummy plug and standpipe on ds. But it used to start when cold with a little hard start problem within 3 sec.Any suggestions?
2005 F250 6.0 137000 miles
Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:19 PM
packagerjr
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FICM plugs good? I can’t think of anything else removed for that job that would put you in the no start arena.
 
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:40 PM
NY Serkan Oncel
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No i only removed the plugs and replaced them but one more thing, i bought the truck 1 year ago from someone, snd when i removed the bolts and reinstalled them at least 4 of them turning free snd 2 were different sizes. 1 8mm, and 1 10mm, and the valve cover is somewhat loose.i don't know if that causes no start?
Also i didn't change the plug and standpipe on passenger side yet.
 
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:24 PM
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A faster way to build oil pressure and purge the air is to pull the FICM relay from the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side as so doing still protects the FICM while allowing you to have voltage going to the IPR valve.

Our trucks can be run without the valve covers on at all, so not having some bolts tight would only cause the potential for an external oil leak, but wouldn’t impact the ability to build Injection control pressure.

If you pull the ficm relay, hook up a battery charge to offset the load, and crank via key for 15 seconds, does the needle for oil pressure on the instrument panel come up? If so, that tells you that you have base engine oil pressure at least.

Outside of that, you’d need gauges to determine if you have the 500psi necessary to allow the motor to start.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:00 AM
floridahonky
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Just a thought.....did the stand pipe come out in 2 pieces? Did you have to remove the HP rail? When I took this same project on, my SP separated and I did not have the special flare tool that grabs the lower half allowing for easy extraction keeping the HP rail seated and sealed in place. I had to remove the rail, then the lower half of the stand pipe. Upon re-installation, my arrogance got the best of me and I had to learn the hard way that torque specs are provided for a reason. My problem was that I over torqued the HP rail bolts which created a high pressure oil leak that did not exist before the SP & DP replacement.
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:31 AM
NY Serkan Oncel
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My standpipe came in 1 piece but it was halfway separated. I didn't have to remove the oil rail but when i removed the standpipe the O ring was pinched, i installed a new standpie .
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:49 AM
NY Serkan Oncel
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Ficmrepair.com thank you for the suggestions.i will try removing the relay and crank it. Maybe my plugs are not in all the way, i tried pushing them in as firm as i can.but how do i know if my ficm needs repair, ficm sync being 0 while cranking certifies that my logic board needs replacement or somethingelse?
thanks
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:51 AM
NY Serkan Oncel
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Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com View Post
A faster way to build oil pressure and purge the air is to pull the FICM relay from the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side as so doing still protects the FICM while allowing you to have voltage going to the IPR valve.

Our trucks can be run without the valve covers on at all, so not having some bolts tight would only cause the potential for an external oil leak, but wouldn’t impact the ability to build Injection control pressure.

If you pull the ficm relay, hook up a battery charge to offset the load, and crank via key for 15 seconds, does the needle for oil pressure on the instrument panel come up? If so, that tells you that you have base engine oil pressure at least.

Outside of that, you’d need gauges to determine if you have the 500psi necessary to allow the motor to start.

Hope this helps!
Also Icp volt koeo .26, ipr 14.7, hpop while cranking goes up to 1280psi, and hpop koeo was very low like 70 psi and O ring was pinched when i first installed it on the standpipe where it separates. But i reinstalled another one with a good O ring.

2005 F250 Powerstroke 6.0 DieseL

 
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:51 AM
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The passenger side dummy plug is usually pegged as the most likely to fail of the four. Maybe you just met the perfect storm where the passenger side DP gave up right after you replaced the driver's side hardware. Buy yourself a stubby gear wrench (12mm I believe) for the lower passenger side valve cover bolts.
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:10 AM
NY Serkan Oncel
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Thank you for your suggestion. I am gonna pull them out next. I bought this truck last year and its funny they already replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated ones. I had a no start when HOT issues, so i thought the O rings on the standpipe and the dummy plugs were gone. But they look like new when i pulled the ds plugs out so this only leaves me either lkke u said the passenger side plugs gone bad or something else like Ficm.
thanks
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by NY Serkan Oncel View Post
Thank you for your suggestion. I am gonna pull them out next. I bought this truck last year and its funny they already replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated ones. I had a no start when HOT issues, so i thought the O rings on the standpipe and the dummy plugs were gone. But they look like new when i pulled the ds plugs out so this only leaves me either lkke u said the passenger side plugs gone bad or something else like Ficm.
thanks
Or the STC fitting. That's probably the most likely culprit out of the bunch.

There are some other seals too that can fail in the high pressure oil system. You may want to look up "air test" and consider pursuing it before throwing more parts at it. If your SPs and DPs took a 12mm allen wrench to remove, you have the updated version. Everything I've read says there are very few problems out of the 12mm versions.
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NY Serkan Oncel View Post
Ficmrepair.com thank you for the suggestions.i will try removing the relay and crank it. Maybe my plugs are not in all the way, i tried pushing them in as firm as i can.but how do i know if my ficm needs repair, ficm sync being 0 while cranking certifies that my logic board needs replacement or somethingelse?
thanks
You will never get the engine to fire until you figure out the reason you have 0 sync.
Remove and reintall all three plugs on the FICM, should hear an audible click, or at least be able to tell the locking tabs are seated fully.
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:30 AM
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What is your cranking rpm?
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:02 AM
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In order to get FICM sync, you need Injection Control Pressure over 500psi, cam sync, crank sync, and a lack of Keep Alive Memory codes. You listed your voltage KOEO on ICP of 0.26 - that is fine, even if 0.24 is more common. What is your ICP voltage during cranking? It should be over 1. User BISMIC (Mark Chambers, awesome guy, btw) posted a chart detailing what ICP voltage numbers corresponded to what ICP psi numbers. Your ICP psi numbers during cranking may be inferred and not actual.

So....
1. What is your ICP voltage during cranking?
2. What is your IPR duty cycle during cranking?
3. What is your cranking RPM?

Just be sure to have a battery charger hooked up during all of this cranking. I would hate to see you trash a FICM in this process. Step one is to get FICM sync. I doubt your FICM is yet bad from what you've said thus far.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:03 AM
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BTW, we carry all of the parts you may need for this - from dummy plugs to standpipes, to snap to connect fittings, to injector cup nipple orings, to, well, whatever. Give us a call at 515-897-4459 if we can help you with troubleshooting or parts! We haven't been beat on price on OEM or aftermarket parts in close to seven years and will work to ensure that you aren't buying parts that you simply do not need.
 
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