KY wanted to tax my '89 F250 as a classic until I showed them pictures. Then they said "OK, not exactly a classic in that condition. Ha Ha.

 

Man I hope I don't have issues with NCDOT when I get plates for my 81.

On the mirror I would replace that rusted nut with a new one if you can get it off.
For that ball I would wire brush and it it with silver paint.

Lug nuts, you can try and clean the rust off and paint but the first time you put a wrench to them they will chip and rust again.

The floor you could leave as I don't think it would get worse before you get to it.
But if you want to I would use the Eastwood suff.
It sticks to rust metal better than clean bare metal so I found out.
Then when you get your tools to patch the holes just clean off like you would for normal welding.
Patch then recoat the patch area.
Dave - - - -

 

I have been reading where others are setting timing at 12 BTDC and some have posted a VECI label that says 8 BTDC.
My label say 3 BTDC. I checked and it is a 3 and not an 8
The SMOG pump and EGR are not used so would I still start out setting the timing at 3 BTDC?

 

You have to remember the factory had to meet EPA specs and why the 3* BTDC.
At 3* BTDC it is not great for performance and why you bump it up some.
Each motor is different in what it likes. Try it at 8* BTDC and if good try 10* & 12* BTDC.
The limits of how far to go are pinging / spark knock (really really not good), hard to start / kick back when starting hot, power starts to drop off.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

I got a few things done over the past few weekends.
I wire brushed and sanded the bed.
I sprayed the bed with rust inhibitor.
I painted over the rust inhibitor with satin black paint.
I didn't use bed liner because I want to weld up the holes first and that is a project for much later.
It was cheap spray paint, I just wanted to stop the rust right now.
I did the bottom of the bed last weekend so is dirty from walking in the bed.

 

Any recommendations for aftermarket gauges oil, temp, and ammeter/volt meter

 

 

AutoMeter

10 chars

 

Crystal let me down today.
Warning just a rant
I spend almost 3 months tinkering to fix some of the small issues and I started her every few days.
Today I decide I will run her down to the gas station.
Got gas and she wouldn't start dead battery or acted like the battery was dead.
Of course my jumper cables were in my jeep so I had to buy another set of over priced gas station cables.
I get home and shut her down and i waited about 5 minutes and wouldn't start.
I put my meter on the battery and had 12.48 volts you would think that were enough.
I charged the battery to 12.80 and she started so I put the meter on and it was getting 13.9 so it looks like the alternator is working.
I put the charger on the battery for 2 hours and it looks like the battery took a charge and crystal started
It looks like I will be replacing the battery cables
-HH

 

There has been a lot of battery cable issues going around lately even on the older trucks as I pop in that area from time to time.
Dave - - - -

 

Dave What is your opinion of duel battery setups?
I was thinking since I have to replace the cables anyway maybe I should consider adding a 2nd battery.
The truck has 2 battery trays already but no isolator or cabling.
I could use a deep cell battery as the 2nd battery to run a portable winch at some point in time and maybe connect a inverter to run some small power tool.
Do you think the stock alternator would be able to charge 2 batteries?

 

I have only had 1 truck out of many that had duel batteries and it was a diesel and needed them.
I would say if it is not needed at this time don't do it.
If you are running power tools then I would look into either battery run ones or get a generator to run them.
A good invertor to run power tools is going to be $$. I had a small invertor to run a laptop when I did computer repair, that was in that diesel truck. If I needed to run power tools I would of needed a much larger one.

Also to run duel batteries as you said you should have an isolator and the cabling to go with it.
As for if your ALT will charge it, it depends. How long & how much will you be pulling power from the 2 batteries?
If you were only drilling say 2 or 3 3/8" holes and then driving the truck and hour then I would say you would be ok.
If winching for hours dragging longs, truck idling as not to kill the 2 batteries, then shut if off I would say the batteries would be low on power as the ALT at idle would not put out enough power to charge them.
It was said after starting a car / truck you would need to drive it 10 min at high way speeds to recharge the battery just from starting.

So unless really needed I would hold off on duel batteries.
Dave ----

 

Ok so I replaced the cables and that appears to have resolve the issue with starting I think.
Until it didn't start I didn't know there was an issue so as far as i know now it is starting ok.
I have another question.

Are these OE or aftermarket? The PO used to have a dump bed installed so could this be something that was installed for the dump bed? It clicks everytime you turn the key on.
FYI it is not the starter solenoid that is next to the battery this is on the driver's side

 

Can you trace out where the wires go?
Also what color are the wires?
I want to say over in that area is where the trailer / cab roof light wire & relay connects to the rear trailer / side in camper harness.
Maybe the PO had that hooked up for something else?
Dave ----

 

Thanks for the info Dave.
Now that you mention that it could be for a trailer or slide in camper it may explain why it also has the extra battery tray.
It is very hard to find a good schematic for this thing.
It has been many years the last time i have worked on these old trucks and I have not worked on post 80s fords
The smog stuff and all the electrical stuff in this 1980 truck has me scratching my head a lot and getting grease in my thin hair and bald spot.