Welcome Crystal

I had pretty much the same issues with MJ, after a steering box and not much
change time to dig into Hip National again

My gauge issues were all ground related.

 

Could be a resonator that was added as part of an aftermarket exhaust system.

 

Anyone know what this is? There is also a Sears break controller

 

What are you referring to? The parking brake pedal? The handle to release it? The handle to open the hood? Is that Sears-labeled toggle switch & lamp part of the brake controller?

 

Clearly I was referring to the thingy that says Hood :-)
No it was the Sears switch and lamp, there is a big clump of wires under the dash and it did not look like any went from the toggle to the break controller.
The truck used to have a dump bed inside of the original bed.
I will look better this weekend.
Thanks

 

Yes 2 strong streams of gas.
Rough idle now when cold and warm.
The choke seems to work correctly 2 pumps and it closes when it got warm 1 rev and it opened.
no tapping noises

 

OK. I then agree with the other guy, look into your ignition timing.

Removing the smog pump won't hurt anything nor will it help anything.

Don't trust the gas gauge until you develop some confidence in it, even though it appears to work.

 

The EVTM might help you diagnose your gauges, look at Pages 58 & 59 here:

Fuel Tank Selector & Gauges - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

Your 1980 model is a one-year-wonder concerning the wiring, but I don't think there are any differences in this area (but dual-tank selector switch wiring might be an exception).

Oh, it's an ammeter, not a voltmeter.

Hey, can you remove the air cleaner and post some close-up shots of the engine?

 

I can get some pictures this weekend.
I was able to get the ammeter working.
There are 2 tanks but the rear one is rusted inside.
I think I have the oil gauge working it now goes back to the left with the engine not running however it reads a little past the L while idling cold before it went far right when the key was on and engine not running.
The wire going to the temp sensor has most of the insulation cracked off and it is still not working.
Forgive my ignorance please?
The last old truck I owned was a 74 F250 4x4 that I bought in 1985 I did all the mechanic work on it.
My very first truck I got in 1976 it was a 1960 F100 Custom Cab with the big back window an a 292 v8 with auto.
After that I bought a few new non-ford trucks through the years and I stopped working on them.

 

I forgot to mention that the truck ran well when I first looked at it and when I picked it up.
I drove about 3 miles and stopped for gas and it still started and ran well.
At around 10 miles it started to idle rough and when I pulled through the light and headed up a slight slop I accelerated a little harder and that was when it started to back fire and miss a little
Today has been the first I started it after I got home on Sunday and it is missing and running rough.

 

LOL I'm sorry if I come across as rude or condescending or sumthin', I guess my mind just thinks about problems differently. I have a 1981 F350 4x4 with a 400 / T18 / 4.10 so I totally understand about the ride quality.

An all-of-a-sudden-type of thing makes me think failing ignition component because of my past experience. But it could just as well be caused by a fuel delivery problem, or a vacuum leak, or something else.

We here can point you at things to look at; what engine/transmission do you have?

 

According to the VIN it had a 400 with the c6 transmission
The person I got the truck from was very elderly and had 2 Ford trucks.
He was at most a little confused and had another friend that was helping him with the sale
I was told the engine was replaced by Napa and it was a 351m and only had around a 1000 miles on it.
After getting the truck home I can tell the engine is very clean for the age of the truck and may have been replaced, but not recent.
Most everything hose and belt wise looks like it had been replaced at the same time and was not extremely old.
It does not smoke, and the oil was full and looked fresh and did not smell like it was burned.
The radiator looks newer and was full of fresh coolant.
For some reason I think that back then Napa would not have replaced the 400 with a 351m and that detail is a little suspect, they may have been thinking about the other truck.
Does Napa even sell and install engines anymore?
Another long reply, sorry

 

 

I knew Ford used a choke heat asst. using the heater hose next to the housing.
I also see the hot air part under the choke housing.

I will have to look at my 300 six carter carb to see if that hose holder can be used as I am running EFI manifolds and there is no way to use the heated air from the exh. manifolds to help the choke open.
But we do use voltage from the ALT to help open the choke.

It look pretty stock under there with the AC solenoid and speed control hooked to the carb.
Dave ----

 

FuzzFace2
The choke seems to work correctly on first start I give it 2 pumps on the peddle and the choke closes.
I turn the key and it fires right up.
After it warms up I give a quick pump on the peddle and the choke opens.
I can shut it off hold the peddle about 1/4 turn the key and it fires right up.
What is different is that it has rough idle now when cold and warm.
It ran a lot better than this when I first looked at it and it ran great for about 10 or so miles when I picked it up then it started missing.