Look up 5.0 upper / 5.8 lower hybrid if you're not familiar with it. It's virtually free with jy parts and a die grinder. It's the next best option for a truck imo, and for stock heads or gt40s, probably most of the gains the eddy would offer.

 

I was reading Scndsin's amazing write up last night about that. I was going to PM him about it. I would have to find a spot to do all that grinding that wouldn't leave me divorced. It looks like a good option as well. Thank you for all the tips good sir!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-project.html

 

And i would be curious to hear about someone running the spacers. The 5.0 truck intake is certainly the way to go if it's not am issue. Theoretically it is a non issue, but the problem is the testing would be outside the capabilities of a guy and his garage. I would imagine it to be an atomization issue, if anything.

 

I just got off the phone with Price Motorsports (now PME). The plates for this application are 1.23" thick and comes with a lifter valley cover that you secure to the front and rear china walls. The way she explained it is you drill and tap a couple holes along the china wall then use RTV across them. Lay the valley cover in place and secure it with screws. run some more rtv across the long edges and then bolt the adapters with gaskets in place. Then you would bolt the intake with another set of gaskets on and voila, your very own EFI air gap intake. The other thing she mentioned is it will probably require their distributor spacer so the distributor will not hit the water neck. This requires you to remove the gear and press on a new center section. So, on the rim and out the door would be around $440 for this option. They claim that no customers have complained about fuel delivery or atomization issues. I'm thinking I may just do the port match hybrid for now. So one more item added to the list. I love how naively optimistic I was when I started this a month ago.

 

F all that for 440. Although I DO like the intake being off of the lifter galley

 

Did you decide on a game plan?


That seems like a good idea to start with.


And budget I would assume.

 

My plan for the motor is:
Source a decent pair of GT40 heads
Contact Comp Cams or another vendor for a recommendation (Or would I do ok with the stock cam and 1.7RR's?)
Purchase new cam, lifters, and springs (if the heads do not have upgraded ones)
Purchase gasket set, rear main seal, oil pump, water pump and various hoses
Source a second 351w lower intake and port match to 5.0 upper

I need to look up how to check the main bearings and crank end play also, to make sure this thing isn't about to secretly eat a rod or main bearing. Figured this should keep me busy for a little bit. I have to pull the dead 5.0 and my 4R70W as well. I am going to have the Transmission gone through to make sure The new motor doesn't turn it's innards in to outards while I am evaluating the new motor.

 

After a very long month filled with a vacation, and back to school stuff I am finally getting back to this. Things I have now:
low mileage 96 351w
redone gt40 heads with trick flow springs and new valves
Comp cams 35-349-8 cam
Timing set
Water pump
Gasket kit
miscellaneous hoses and clamps.

Up this weekend is to prep the new motor with the new parts. Pull the 302 out of the truck. Drop in the 351w and start hooking it all back up.

 

I am currently planning on spending the time to match my 5.0 upper to the 5.8 lower and match the lower to the gt40 heads. My next question is would I be better off picking up an aftermarket intake like the typhoon and switching to the single throttle body? For the folks that have already done the hybrid, do you find it sufficient?

 

It's all a question of cash/time/effort really.

I enjoyed my intake project & feel the end result is still not maxed out with all the other parts of my build.

I really want to do another "phase 2" with better grinding tools & perhaps some build up of the lower runners to equalize the runner shapes & volumes.

If you don't mind the cash outlay, go for the after-market intake.

Good luck with your project either way.

 

So, I have a setback with the long block I picked up. The bearings and cylinders look great, with little to no wear at all but I literally had to beat the distributor out of the engine. Once removed I found what you see in the photo. I cant get a good look at the distributor hole in the block to see if its scored to hell though. I have decided to send the block to the machine shop to have someone way smarter than me check it out. Any thoughts as to what this is on the distributor shaft? It looks like melted bearing to me and that has me very concerned.

 

The pump drive came out with? There's usually and washer/clip on the DS to keep it from being removed from the top. I wonder if that's some pieces of the clip that got up between the block and dist.

 

That's really odd.

Having pressed on a shaft retainer clip a time or two, I don't see how on earth it could climb up there.

Even if you cut & spread it.

Will that metal flake off if pried?

 

The retainer clip was intact and in good shape. The metal does not flake off easily and needs to be ground off. I am going to replace the distributor with a new unit once I get the motor back.

 

You should see my F350. Talk about rust! lol

Gotta love New England winters!