If I hadn't made it to the top I would have used 4W low only to finish the climb. I remember now that I have used reverse when shifting to low and the transmission wouldn't engage 4W drive without moving the truck. Scratch that question.

This is interesting:
SAE J2807 Towing specifications
SAE came up with a “Launch on Grade” test. To pass, while on an incredibly steep 12 percent grade, a truck must be able to launch and travel 16 feet (5 meters) uphill, five times in a row, in 5 minutes or less. Then, the truck and trailer has to be able to complete the same test while launching up a 12 percent grade in Reverse. Any amount of throttle input is allowed, and the clutch in manual-equipped trucks can be used however it’s needed to complete the test.

I doubt I could have launched on a 12% grade. Why are grades in percent instead of degrees?

 

Probably because "steep hill degrees" wouldn't sound all that impressive. 12% grade is 6.8 degrees.

 

The transfer case behind the 6R140 requires being stopped or a speed under 3 mph then Neutral to shift to or from 4L. It takes about 3 to 5 seconds for the transfer case to make the shift. In order to make a shift while climbing a hill you would need the brakes to hold the load in order to make it into 4L.

 

That fiver you are looking at is easily towed by a properly equipped F150, so doing it with an F250 is no problem. That said, for $700 more, it can be an F350 with even more capacity. The short bed is actually 6'9" and I have been towing my 10K, 35' fiver for 3 years without issue with an Andersen Ultimate hitch, and 3 years prior to that with a 5'7" bed F150 and a Sidewinder pin box. While 90 degree turns seems to be the gold standard, that is very bad for the RV suspension as the tires are literally being dragged sideways when you get past about 70 degrees. The Super Duty SRW is good for up to about 3200 lbs of pin and 15K of fiver, depending on configuration. Your current plans allow for significant growth in a fiver within reason.

 

How's it do on hills? I think Interstate grades can be up to 7% in the mountains with a max speed limit of 60mph.
My last truck was an F250 6.2L gas engine. While towing a 12,000 pound 35' 5th wheel trailer up a 5% grade using full throttle, about 45 mph in 2nd gear and 4,500 rpm was all it could do.

 

The 2011 Ecoboost (part of "properly equipped") did great. It pulled grades at 2500-3000 RPM and passed diesels on the way up. Turbos make a huge difference for towing and I would never do any serious towing without again. To me, going from the 3.5L Ecoboost to a 6.2L is a step backwards. The 6.2L Super Duty is for casual weekend towing. Long trips call for the Powerstroke, in my opinion.
BTW, I paid for the Powerstroke by getting the XLT model instead of the Lariat.

 

This is so blatantly FALSE I can't imagine you're not deliberately trolling the OP.

A SRW, Crew Cab, F-250 is what he's asking about.

He won't be anywhere NEAR a 15K 5th wheel OR a 3200 lb pin weight. Even if he stays with a gas engine, let alone a diesel one.

Oh, and btw, on his original post, he said he wants to stay WITHIN the factory truck ratings.

 

Nothing false in my post. I easily towed a similar fiver with an F150 for 3 years, so he should have no problem with an F250 and would have room for some growth, and possibly consider an F350 for just a little more.
I am editing based on your bold type indicating issue with SD capabilities. Those numbers are based on my 2015 F350 CC SB Powerstroke numbers. Mine is rated for just under 16K and 3400 lb payload. I rounded down to 15K and 3200 payload so those numbers are not unreasonable. As for him asking about an F250, almost all of us have suggested an F350 instead and that is why I posted those ratings. It has been often said that the F250 ratings are so close to a max payload F150 that F350 is a better choice and that is why I traded my F150 for the F350.

 

I towed my current 5th wheel and an older one for several years with my 08 F250. I had a pin wt at the time of 3K lbs.

But as was said the op wants to stay within the factory ratings. I was not. I was within the axle and tire ratings and the GCVWR.

 

Chris,
Sounds like your doing your research. Smart. I need to better educate myself before shopping for the next truck.
The cargo/towing charts base the numbers on a "Properly Equipped" truck. My salesman didn't say if the truck I was buying was properly equipped and I didn't know enough to ask

Can someone tell, looking at the window sticker if my truck is properly equipped?
Just curious what my ratings are or could have been. And what options, if any don't I have to make it properly equipped. Does the 10,000# GVWR package add to the tow rating?
It might increase cargo carrying capacities and raise the pin weight rating but I wouldn't think it has any affect on the CGVWR
I ask because I may be in the market again before long. My truck has been in the shop several times for the same water leak problem. There's been so much water in the truck, once soaking for weeks before I discovered it. I worry the electronics will become a problem. I'm already experiencing some odd electrical activity. One more leak, it qualifies as a lemon. Regardless, I'll trade it before the warranty expires.

 

Take a look at the stickers inside the driver's door (B-pillar). They will show your axle capacities and also your payload capacity. The 10000# GVWR package is simply the highest GVWR available with the F250. There is an optional derate (which you don't have) for registration purposes.

 

UnclKracker looking at your window sticker and cross checking with the 2017 brochure.
Maximum capabilities shown are for properly equipped vehicles with required equipment and a 150-lb. driver. Weight of additional options, equipment, passengers and cargo must be deducted from this weight.

With your optional equipment added...
**Camper Package includes front springs upgrade (unless maximum springs have been computer-selected as included equipment), rear stabilizer bar (SRW), auxiliary rear springs (F-250), and slide-in camper certification.

(this show for a longbed and yours is a shortbed but the sticker shows having it so I'm guessing an option that can be had with a shortbed)
**F-250 High-Capacity Trailer Tow Package (F-250 with 8' box and diesel engine only) includes max. front springs, upgraded axles and 27,500 lb.-GCWR

All the towing numbers mean nothing unless you actually weigh the truck loaded for travel.

Max GVWR 10,000 has a "Maximum Payload Weight Ratings" or carrying capacity of 3,450#.
Conventional Towing 17,600#
5th wheel/ gooseneck 14,000#

Sooooo.....
Truck + added items + passengers = Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
GVW + loaded trailer = Gross Combined Weight (GCW)

You asked if "Does the 10,000# GVWR package add to the tow rating?" No it's an arbitrary number a "legal" limit if you want to call it that for a loaded truck only. If you haven't already weighed the truck you'll be disappointed with the actual payload capacity (carrying/ pin weight).

The Ford brochure is confusing for the F250 rating because it shows only 14k (5th wheel) but with the " high capacity tow package" (27,500# gross combined weight) I would think 17.5k would show as a wieght option (10k truck + 17.5k trailer).

As been said many times in threads axle & tires are limiting factors.

 

I expect the payload for the truck is 2100-ish. If we subtract 600 lbs for passengers (four at 150lbs each) and 200 lbs for a hitch... that leaves something like 1300 lbs for the pin weight. If we go with a normal 20% pin-weight rule-of-thumb, that yields a trailer GVWR of 6500#.

It's really hard to find a 5th wheel that doesn't put you over GVWR on the truck (10000 lbs). That's why folks who already own F250s revert to the actual axle and tire limits (a source of some debate in the RV world). If you don't already own it you can purchase an F350 and gain 1500# of payload capacity on the sticker.

 

To the best of my knowledge this 10,000lb "package" is the de-rate. There are a lot of states that use this as the cut off between regular trucks/SUV's and "flat weight". It has a big affect on registration costs.

If you are in a state like IL, however, you are F'd because they use the 4 ton/8000lb limit as the cut off for "flat weight". So if you get the 10k package you just wasted your ratings because you can't get out from "flat weight" reg any way you slice it. If the truck with you and fuel in it is just at or below 8,000lbs (may be close - my 2011 SRW long bed is 8500lbs empty with me in it, not sure they trimmed all that much weight from the new ones?) you have 0 legal payload. That means you can't haul a load of 2x4's from lowes or a weeks supply of groceries for a family of 4 from the store and be legal. You might as well bite the bullet and register at the class your truck is in.

If you are in a state who's "flat weight" cut off is 10,000lbs you have a bit more to think about, but then you are still limiting what you can "legally" do. Can the truck hold more? Yep. There is no difference in the components. The heavier springs may still be there, same axles, etc. So you are "safe" to run at those weights, but if you ever got weighed you would be over the sticker weights.

Note that "flat weight" registration usually has more crap you have to do in addition to being higher priced. IL, for example - you need a safety inspection every 6 months. I don't know what all the different counties do, maybe some don't require it, and there may be some (by the lake maybe?) that require emissions testing also. That also costs $ and takes time out of your day to do it, then if they nit-pick and find something as small as a marker light out you don't get your inspection sticker and aren't legal to drive until it is fixed. Then you need a re-inspection to to get your sticker. If they find something, like too much wear/play in your steering shaft, that they fail your inspection for and you need a lot of work done to the truck to get your sticker - that could be a bigger pain and bigger expense.

So what class you register in can have a big impact on cost/legality requirements - which is why the "10,000lb package" exists as an option - for the states that use that value it is a way to slip under, even though the truck may be built for more.

Yep.