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Fuel Pump and new Hitch Saga.

  #31  
Old 07-19-2018, 06:29 AM
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Matt M, PA
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Great info on the nutplates and bolts. I'm not sure if I'll get a new Curt hitch, or have my local powder coater do my original. Once it's removed, it may be easier to assess, but the existing coating has started lifting....
 
  #32  
Old 07-19-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt M, PA
Great info on the nutplates and bolts. I'm not sure if I'll get a new Curt hitch, or have my local powder coater do my original. Once it's removed, it may be easier to assess, but the existing coating has started lifting....

Matt, for your museum quality EX I think going with powder coating the factory hitch would be the way to go. With just the factory coating lifting off and (as I'm sure) no real rust or metal loss the original hitch is still strong, solid and sound.
I am insane, so I have the Torklift SuperHitch 20K. It is seriously heavy duty.
 
  #33  
Old 07-19-2018, 08:18 PM
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Thanks for that, it's b been my first choice for awhile. In fact, I've thinking that I'll digitally photograph the label with info that's on the hitch and make a new one for the hitch once it's coated. I should probably do the same for the A/C-Belt Routing sticker under the hood. I tried to order one of those, but they're long gone. I have a shop that can print it once I set up the art work.
 
  #34  
Old 07-20-2018, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by housedad
M18 -10.9 flange bolt

18mm
10.9 metric hardness grade

If you break or strip the nut plates, you need to get another one. Removing and installing the hitch without nut plates would be a major pain without dropping the fuel tank out.
The OEM Bolts are $3.00 ea. and the nut plates are $11.28 ea. at Tasca parts. It takes 8 bolts and 4 nut plates.

If you are getting the Curt or Torklift, they come with all the bolts and hardware to install.
Thank you for that. Are they 1-1/2" or 2"? Haven't removed my hitch yet, would like to have parts in hand before I do.
 
  #35  
Old 10-17-2018, 07:49 PM
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The Saga Continues....

Well, cleaning up and installing the newer skid plate was put on the back burner. One reason was that I had no way to paint the inside of the tubular channels that run under it, and the other is life gets in the way.

Anyway, I finally got some extension spray wands for the rattle cans of paint, (ended up ordering them from a backwater in Lithuania) sanded the skid plate down and painted the inside yesterday and the outside today. Tomorrow is scheduled for installation.

NOW I GET TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN !!!! Yippie !!! (not)

It will also solve a stupid that I did. When I put the tank in last time I apparently did not route the vent line correctly and now it is a ##%$^ to get gas into the tank. The pump clicks off every 10 to 15 cents or so. I will be glad to have that in my past.

After Paint. I don't know why the flash made it look brownish. It is gloss black. Maybe that it is rather chilly and it has not set yet. No matter. It is painted.




 
  #36  
Old 11-19-2018, 05:29 PM
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So I finally got around to trying to install the new shroud a couple of weeks ago, but got stuck having to buy a new fuel filler hose. The one I bought melted from ethanol gas. Bought a Gates hose to replace. See this thread

Waiting for Rockauto, the weather and my old bones to be able to do it meant over a two week delay, but as of a couple hours ago, the tank is now installed with the replacement shroud and all is good.

The Gibson Cat back exhaust was also installed, and it works great. Much easier to install it with the gas tank out of the way.. I did find that the U-bolts on the clamps that Gibson supplies are total crap. They broke at only 30 - 35 ft-lbs I ended up getting some stainless clamps from Advance Auto. much better. Bought a couple extra to use the u-bolts out of to replace the u-bolts in the Gibson ones that have hangers welded to them.
There is a little bit of drone at 40 to 45 mph, but overall the sound is just a bit over stock. I'm happy with that. The Butt-O-Meter says there is more pep and go.


Pics in a few minutes of the finished work.

The Saga is over. (hopefully)
 
  #37  
Old 11-19-2018, 05:44 PM
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Another thing. Inside the shroud Ford had installed four small sheets of rubber padding glued to the hump that run forward and back. Mine were loose and had dirt and rocks ground into it.

I replaced them with rubber sheet from Home depot and 3m rubber adhesive. I cut the sheet to cover the entire humps side to side. Several pieces were needed. The rubber sheet is found in the throw rug and runner section. 3M rubber adhesive in the paint dept.

The adhesive is a spray, and it does not spray like paint at all. It basically throws a figure eight of a thin stream of adhesive.I highly suggest if you ever use it, to practice on a board or something first to see how a thin coat goes on. The stuff will absolutely glue rubber to almost anything dries fairly hard, and is tenacious as hell on painted surfaces.
 
  #38  
Old 11-20-2018, 07:02 AM
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FYI... for rubber to metal another excellent product is Pliobond.
 
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