Today I has a set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers installed on my 2016 F350. I stayed with the stock size , 275/70-18 E since I can barely see whats in my top side boxes anyway. I also put a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks on at the same time. The tires make less road noise than the BFG AT Ko2 on my F150. I got 55,000 out of the origional Michelin AT 's that came from the factory. Th tires with shocks ride like a new truck. While the tires were off I looked at the brakes and I'm down towards 1/4" thick so I am going to replace them. Any reason I can't just pull the calipers and press the piston back in with a c clamp like I used to do on my 06 Super Duty? The rotors look smooth and my last 2 Super Duty's I never touched the rotors.

 

Looking good! I like a tread like that. Were the pads you checked on the front or all four wheels?

 

You shouldn't compress the piston in without first opening the bleeder

 

All 4 wheels had what i thought were thin pads. i will get a set for the next cool day.

 

Remove the cap on the master cylinder. Compress the caliper pistons inward all the way till they bottom out using large channel lock pliers or a C clamp. Use the old brake pad as a backer to compress the pistons simultaneously. Keep an eye on the master fluid level. If it looks like its going to overflow suction a little bit out. Do not let the calipers dangle on the rubber lines. Support the calipers at all times to avoid damaging the rubber lines. Check the slider pins for smooth movement and presence of plenty of the special silicone grease. They do pull out for inspection after you unseat the boot. Don't tear the boots. The boots should be in good shape too. If these horribly designed pins freeze up they will cook the caliper, rotor and even the axle seal. Install everything then perform a complete system bleed. Brake fluid should be changed just like oil. But at every 50-60K. Go purchase a simple pump style pressure bleeder and a gallon of high qual DOT3. Push fluid through the system until it runs clear. You will use at least a 1/2 gallon to bleed all 4 sides starting furthest from the master(right rear). Don't store the fluid in the pump bleeder. Dump it back into the container and dry out the bleeder and its lines by turning it upside down on a clean rag. I use small rubber lines from the caliper bleeders to a drain pan. And just walk around all 4 corners cracking each bleeder one by one closing it before moving to the next one and so on... The lines small lines can be sourced from a pet store (fish air pump clear line) or silicone surgical silicone line, preferred (amazon). Store the pump and the adapters in clean bags in a dry spot for the nrxt time you needed it. Brake fluid lasts no more than a year in an open container. Store it in a cool dry space. Don't forget to push the pedal a few times to seat the calipers before you put the truck into drive. Recheck the fluid level.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Motive-Produc...53543/10002/-1

I have the above bleeder, the universal kit, as I do a wide variety of brake jobs. You will need the master cylinder adaptor for your specific truck(call the tech line if in doubt). The best money I've spent in a while. I suggest the universal pump then just purchase whatever adaptors you need for whatever else you drive.