Block Heater Question
#1
Block Heater Question
Wouldn't you know it. Temps down to 0 (F) and the block heater not working. How do I now, you ask? Engine cranks but will not fire. Put a line splitter on the supply outlet box where the extension cord is plugged in and the Fluke clamp- on Amp Meter reads "0" amp draw. Not a good sign. The extension cord shows 119 volts on the multimeter. So, my question is this, is the Block Heater fused some where? If so, where is the fuse located. Now this Block Heater was replaced last Spring with a Ford part and has worked great up until now. So, I do not believe the heating element has burned out or such. Any other thoughts?
#5
Wouldn't you know it. Temps down to 0 (F) and the block heater not working. How do I now, you ask? Engine cranks but will not fire. Put a line splitter on the supply outlet box where the extension cord is plugged in and the Fluke clamp- on Amp Meter reads "0" amp draw. Not a good sign. The extension cord shows 119 volts on the multimeter. So, my question is this, is the Block Heater fused some where? If so, where is the fuse located. Now this Block Heater was replaced last Spring with a Ford part and has worked great up until now. So, I do not believe the heating element has burned out or such. Any other thoughts?
#6
I saw that is got pretty cold up there last night, we have been going there for Christmas just about every year but skipped this year and went to Las Cruces instead. My great grandparents lived in the "Little Alaska" area up there by Mora on a 200 acre land grant.
The block heater is not fused, maybe you have a bad connection or damaged cord? Seems unlikely that a 1 year old element would fail. When the element was replaced was the cord replaced with it, (they are 2 separate units)? The cord is the weak point on the block heater, right where the cap is molded to the cord is where it goes bad from flapping back and forth, the strands of copper break one at a time till it either quits or you have a fire..
The block heater is not fused, maybe you have a bad connection or damaged cord? Seems unlikely that a 1 year old element would fail. When the element was replaced was the cord replaced with it, (they are 2 separate units)? The cord is the weak point on the block heater, right where the cap is molded to the cord is where it goes bad from flapping back and forth, the strands of copper break one at a time till it either quits or you have a fire..
#7
As recommended by others, check the cord. Mine has shorted out in the end twice now since 2012. The most recent was right where the cord exited the plug. Musta got weak from all the flexing over the years and finally popped last week. I cut the cord back about an inch and checked it, 15 ohms, so everything else is good. Put the marinco plug in that I have had sitting around for a few years and back to heating the block.
With that being said, they're right. With good glow plugs and batteries you should start at 0. After work today at -15 with windchills in the -40s mine fired right off with about 35 seconds of glow plugs time before trying to start it. I did glow plugs, re-oringed the injectors and rebuilt the starter in December of 2013. The injectors are original with 271k on them, currently running 5w40 Delo.
Baatzy
With that being said, they're right. With good glow plugs and batteries you should start at 0. After work today at -15 with windchills in the -40s mine fired right off with about 35 seconds of glow plugs time before trying to start it. I did glow plugs, re-oringed the injectors and rebuilt the starter in December of 2013. The injectors are original with 271k on them, currently running 5w40 Delo.
Baatzy
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#9
Not really a hijack ... more of a supplement to this thread. Last night I discovered one of the wire strands on my block heater cord was severed ... probably from the constant back and forth action while plugging it in. I suspect this is the original cord. By the printing on the wire, it appears to be the ground wire that is severed. I am debating whether to simply repair it: 1) (solder - heat shrink - then tape) or 2) replace the entire plug with a new one; or 3) replace the entire cord with a new cord.
This summer, I was planning on installing a marinco plug in the front bumper and wire in my block heater cord and the 2 battery blanket cords I use in the winter.
What would you do ... repair wire, replace just the plug or replace the entire cord?
I'm holding the plug such that my finger is on the ground prong. You can see the severed wired on the right hand strand which is labelled as the ground wire.
This summer, I was planning on installing a marinco plug in the front bumper and wire in my block heater cord and the 2 battery blanket cords I use in the winter.
What would you do ... repair wire, replace just the plug or replace the entire cord?
I'm holding the plug such that my finger is on the ground prong. You can see the severed wired on the right hand strand which is labelled as the ground wire.
#12
Thanks guys ... and just to close the loop. I decided to cut off the old male plug and wire up a new plug. It was a bit of a squeeze as I only had a couple of inches of cord to work with. For the record, the green, ground wire was the middle strand of the three strands ... not the one with "green conductor for grounding" written on it. Happy to say everything works great now. I went under my truck and touched above where the heating element is plugged in and it was nice and warm by the time I plugged in the block heater and slid under the truck to check things out.
I'll save the marinco plug install mod for warmer weather. As it is ... my hands and fingers are still thawing out. Dang it's cold outside right now ...
I'll save the marinco plug install mod for warmer weather. As it is ... my hands and fingers are still thawing out. Dang it's cold outside right now ...
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02GrayPowerStroke
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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02-10-2011 10:06 AM