1989 F-250 Bad Frame - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1989 F-250 Bad Frame

  #1  
Old 07-13-2018, 10:47 PM
dkf250
dkf250 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
dkf250 is starting off with a positive reputation.
1989 F-250 Bad Frame


Hey Folks, here is my F250. I have a 4" lift on it. It has a bad frame because the wheel arches are rotted out, the bed cross members and one the rear leaf hangers. The engine is also puking oil into the intake. I know very little about these trucks and what will interchange. Its a 351 EFI with a 5 speed. I am looking for frames, front axles and engines to swap. My plan is to find a frame that I can take my body and drop onto. If folks around here could help point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

Frame: 1989 F-250
What years frame will work ?

Engine: 351 EFI
Whys is my engine puking oil out of the intake.?
What do I need to do to fix it?
How can I fix it to get more power? My truck is geared fairly high and the addition of the 35s did not help my power at all. This thing is a dog.
Is a 460 swap a better option?
Has anyone swapped a 12V cummins ?

Front axle:
This truck is stock so it still has the twin beam suspension. I would like to switch to a straight axle. What is the best approach and what will I need?
Is it as simple as getting a front axle from this year and bolting it to my leaf springs or were these trucks set up with coil overs?
Is it just as easy to get a kit and a DANA 60 to make a straight axle w/ coil overs?
Obviously whatever I change the font axle gear ratio wise the rear will have to follow. I want to do this because like I said its a dog. I don't like the I beam set up because its chewing up tires. I don't plan to haul or tow much with this truck but i would like the capability to do so.

Thanks for the help

 
  #2  
Old 07-14-2018, 04:48 AM
1TonBasecamp
1TonBasecamp is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,813
1TonBasecamp is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Hey dkf, welcome! Nice truck too by the way. Be even nicer if all the issues were minor though!

Some questions though. And maybe an answer or two...

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
It has a bad frame because the wheel arches are rotted out, the bed cross members and one the rear leaf hangers.
What do you mean it has a bad frame? And why does the body being rusty have anything to do with it?
A common issue with lifted trucks of this vintage was cracking at the welds and seams, especially at the front crossmember under the engine. Very common problem, but pretty easy fix too usually.
Is that what's going on with yours? Or is it something else?

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
The engine is also puking oil into the intake.
Where are you finding the oil? Sounds like a PCV valve problem, but it could be worse. A simple fix (if it's just the valve) would be to replace the valve and see if that helps.
Does it have aftermarket valve covers? Maybe they don't have the proper baffle, or maybe even if they're factory covers the internal baffle has failed for some reason.
It's not like oil in the intake is unheard of of course, but it's not a good thing either. Sometimes excessive blowby will show itself as this excess oil. But I wonder how long it's taken for the buildup to get to this point? Have you owned the truck for awhile and driven it extensively? Or is it new to you?

One thing I always do with used engines is run oil cleaners through it. This is a two-edged sword however, if you don't know the history of the engine, or it's overall condition. Under normal old-age conditions, or if the engine has just sat too long between drives, you can put in some oil additives to clean up the innards, starting before the first oil change (a flushing solution), and running with the new oil (standard solvent type cleaner) and this practice can work exceedingly well. Even though many still call the "snake oils" they actually do work under the right circumstances.
Where you really would not want to use them however, would be if there is a lot of junk built up inside. Trying to clean that stuff out by flushing could cause all sorts of other issues as the accumulated junk works it's way though the engine.
I use them, but recommend using them with care.
But they can reduce blowby, smooth the idles, "quiet noisy lifters" (one of their main claims to fame) and other stuff.

Have you given the engine a basic tune up at least? Just to be sure you're starting from a good point?

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
Frame: 1989 F-250
What years frame will work ?
Not sure of any small or big changes, but initially I would expect the '87-'91 frames to be at least similar.
The frames from '80 through '96/'97 are very similar, but could have had many, many changes made to them during that time that might make for headaches when trying to swap things over.
I think there are members here with "frame guru" status that can give you the correct info.

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
Engine: 351 EFI
Whys is my engine puking oil out of the intake.?
What do I need to do to fix it?
Where is it coming from? Got pics?
Could be many things, so it's not necessarily going to be a quick-n-easy answer.

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
How can I fix it to get more power? My truck is geared fairly high and the addition of the 35s did not help my power at all. This thing is a dog.
I guess so! 35's and stock gearing are rarely a good match.
What gear ratio is in there now?
Depending on the answer to that question, a lower gear may be your best first step no matter what you decide to do with the engine. Up to a point at least, most normal engines are not going to help as much as you think no matter how much power they put out, if the gearing is far enough off.

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
Is a 460 swap a better option?
Better than what? Making more power in your 351 or changing gears?
I'd say no, it's not a better option UNTIL the gears are corrected. After that, it's a popular swap in some models, so may be a good way to go. I'd prefer a nicely built EFI 351 myself, but still, a 460 ain't hay!

Originally Posted by dkf250 View Post
Front axle:
This truck is stock so it still has the twin beam suspension. I would like to switch to a straight axle. What is the best approach and what will I need?
Is it as simple as getting a front axle from this year and bolting it to my leaf springs or were these trucks set up with coil overs?
Is it just as easy to get a kit and a DANA 60 to make a straight axle w/ coil overs?
Officially the 4wd version is "Twin Traction Beam" and the 2wd trucks have the "Twin-I-Beam" setup.
And unfortunately it's not all that easy to go from TTB to Monobeam (solid axle) If I remember. Frame is different at least in the front area that you're concerned with.
Not sure I'd say it's impossible, but it's not a simple bolt-on project.
I could be thinking only of the 2wd to 4wd swap, but pretty sure going from TTB to solid isn't a cakewalk either.

Good luck.

Paul
 
  #3  
Old 07-14-2018, 04:08 PM
dkf250
dkf250 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 2
dkf250 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Where are you finding the oil? Sounds like a PCV valve problem, but it could be worse. A simple fix (if it's just the valve) would be to replace the valve and see if that helps.
Does it have aftermarket valve covers? Maybe they don't have the proper baffle, or maybe even if they're factory covers the internal baffle has failed for some reason.
It's not like oil in the intake is unheard of of course, but it's not a good thing either. Sometimes excessive blowby will show itself as this excess oil. But I wonder how long it's taken for the buildup to get to this point? Have you owned the truck for awhile and driven it extensively? Or is it new to you?

One thing I always do with used engines is run oil cleaners through it. This is a two-edged sword however, if you don't know the history of the engine, or it's overall condition. Under normal old-age conditions, or if the engine has just sat too long between drives, you can put in some oil additives to clean up the innards, starting before the first oil change (a flushing solution), and running with the new oil (standard solvent type cleaner) and this practice can work exceedingly well. Even though many still call the "snake oils" they actually do work under the right circumstances.
Where you really would not want to use them however, would be if there is a lot of junk built up inside. Trying to clean that stuff out by flushing could cause all sorts of other issues as the accumulated junk works it's way though the engine.
I use them, but recommend using them with care.
But they can reduce blowby, smooth the idles, "quiet noisy lifters" (one of their main claims to fame) and other stuff.

Have you given the engine a basic tune up at least? Just to be sure you're starting from a good point?

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the help. I have not driven the truck very much. It has ~70k miles on it, It was and older mans farm truck. I bought it then I lifted it and found the frame rotted in the wheel arches on the both frame rails. The top of the C channel and the sides over both wheel arches. The truck sat prior to me buying it. The engine is completely stock but it cranked up. It feels like it is very down on power and got very hot for the amount of power it made. II only notice oil coming out of the intake really. The valve covers look they are sealing well. The gears I believe are 3:42s I don't remember but they were definitely higher than 3:73. I am out of town right now but I will get pictures once I can.

What do you recommend for a tune up ? Plugs, wires..?

Thanks,
Dillon

 
  #4  
Old 07-14-2018, 05:10 PM
1TonBasecamp
1TonBasecamp is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,813
1TonBasecamp is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Yep, I'd say that's a good start. Plugs, wires, cap & rotor, oil change (if you have not already), adjust timing and bump up the advance a bit even, new PCV valve as well as cleaning out the throttle body the best you can short of a removal.
Or you could save your money initially by running a full diagnostic such as would include a compression check. Just to make sure you're not throwing good money after bad right away.
But all that other stuff will only help you to see if it's capable of running well on it's own, and slowing down the oil accumulation and stuff like that.

Throttle bodies and MAF's and sensors and such don't like a lot of oil vapor muddling up their functions, so a good cleaning is not a bad thing.
The fact that it's not driven much now, and sounds like it wasn't driven much before is a sign that it may just want to be driven more and regularly. And especially out on the open road.
Nothing wrong with being a ranch truck it's whole life, other than like a horse, it likely gets rode hard and put away wet! An owner may never beat it and always treat it well as far as it goes, but being driven only a few minutes at a time, or idling extensively, or never getting the oil up to operating temperature before shutting down. all contribute to the early wear on things.
Sometimes it can't be brought back as it is, and has to have many things done including a full rebuild. Often as not though, just cleaning, adding clean fluids and driving the crap out of it (literally!) is good enough to bring it back to it's former glory.

I have a neighbor's '92 F150 w/5.8 sitting in front of my house with my EB on a trailer behind it. For years he only drove it occasionally and for short distances and frankly it ran like crap. Also leaks like a sieve. After only one day of driving it on the freeway and all around hauling stuff to and from storage rooms and such, it was like a brand new truck!
Still didn't have a lot of poop, but I blame that as much on the gearing as the tune of the engine. But it sure runs like a champ now.
And all I did was add some gas and oil additives and drive it. Probably just the driving was enough on it's own, but as I've said before, I'm a fan of some additives.

Paul
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
78F-250Lariat
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
12-26-2015 09:20 PM
reamer
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
02-15-2014 09:22 PM
JPETRO1051
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
18
02-04-2011 07:35 PM
southernboy0122
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
10-01-2009 06:58 AM
X-1
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
02-15-2004 08:56 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 1989 F-250 Bad Frame


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.