Roger that, I'm going to try and look at the IPR today. Just got the new screen and o-rings. I never did publish the book on where this all started but I guess I should add this:

The hot no start started a day after I put in the T6 and hotshots, and the truck was running better! Well I think to the oil change and know I used a fram filter (which is never done), because it was on sale where I picked up the oil. Had a silly plastic part on top that was a nightmare to even get in...this is leading to my stupidity here now.... So I take off the oil cap and find my center pipe plunger had broken but was still there w the spring and the silly plastic piece was broken as well. Turns out there was already one in there because previous owner must have used these filters too. Well I think I get all the parts and pieces out and put it back together....and it fires right up! I'm relieved at that point....unlit I get home and have the same issue.

I go over to my 03 junker and take the oil cap off and see while the center pipe is a little different design it will work the same. So i follow the directions for getting that center pipe out and then did the same for the 05 to make the swap.

When I had that pipe out I used a magnet to retrieve the one bolt I need to completely remove...and came out w two identical bolts from in the bottom of the oil filter housing!

Apparently someone sloppy had been in there before! At that point I took the other two bolts out and thouroghly cleaned the inside of the oil filter housing to ensure nothing was still in there and put it back together...fired right up! Fixed the problem right? Nope...

So I wonder 1) if the extra bolt had at some oil change or another been lodged under the filter this keeping it from seating correctly...and 2) if I didn't suck crap through the system to the IPR giving me the illusion I had fixed the problem because every time I worked on it the engine had cooled enough to restart when I was done.

Holy....

 

Also see that the oil caps themselves are different from the 03 and 05...odd because the files are the same. They are the same dimensions and appear to be the factory ones but inside the cap is completely different and I don't know which is right to ensure it's correctly stock.

 

Update:

Having real trouble finding a fitting to make a leak tester so I ordered off the internet. In the meantime I did pull my IPR and while it appeared to be fine (there was some crud on the screen but it was intact, nothing metallic in the port), I put new o-rings and screen on it after I cleaned it up.

Question: how stiff should the IPR spring be? I could push it down on a punch fairly easily to spray it out w brake cleaner.

 

Never got an answer/opinion on the IPR spring stiffness but here's where imI at today:

Attempted leak test a week ago but couldn't determine anything. Hit the 4000 mile mark on the 5w40 T6 w hotshots added so I changed the oil and went back 15w40 T3 (because I have 50 gallons of it, and the hot no start never happened until the lighter oil went in).

Anyway, after having the new oil in for a day and a half the no start hot became just a slightly longer than normal crank starts when hit!

I don't think this can point to a component necessarily, but is my HPO leak so small I can't hear it? Could the IPR spring be it? I do see 83.9% on the IPR going up hills when it downshifts and I thought that odd.

Any new thoughts please?

 

It takes a while to push the oil out when you pressure up with air.

You should leave air on until you hear it flowing through the IPR valve. Then close the IPR valve to determine if the flow of air stops.

Specific/common places to listen for air:
1. oil fill tube
2. ccv opening
3. at each injector

Sometimes a stethoscope helps. So does listening at the injectors w/ valve covers off.

A leak in the oil system can be small or large or anything in between.

Did you replace the dummy plugs and standpipes?

The oil filter caps should be the same for the various model years. I hate to hear the story on the oil filter standpipe. Are you sure it is now back to 100% stock w/ no problems? Moral of this story is ALWAYS use OEM filters. We ALWAYS tell new owners to get OEM filters and OEM caps!

Lastly - as an fyi ..... the IPR reading is a commanded value. It has little to do with the actual valve position. At 84% it is telling the duty cycled valve to close off as much as it can because ICP desired is higher than ICP actual.

 

Ok thank you for that because I did not know that about the IPR. I did just purchase a new oil cap and Ford filter when I did the oil to be sure that wasn't it. I have new stand pipes and dummy plugs sitting on the seat and they will go in w the new Ford injector that will be here on Friday.

Even though I haven't found the leak and hate the thought of throwing parts at it, I don't know that they've been updated and I am pretty darn sure I need one injector so I have them ready and hope it solves it!

 

Oh and yes sir, I bought a new Ford stand pipe for the oil housing and it went in w the new filter.

 

Redid the leak test and still can't find it. I can't seem to get my IPR to lock closed though so that's probably why. I thought if I turned my key on it would close it so I wouldn't leak by to my crank case and back through my fill tube?

Was about to tare in to it to do the one injector and stand pipes and dummies hoping that would solve it when I got my hands on a snap-on Solus. I did the balance/contribution test and here's what I got:

Cyl #1 -37
Cyl #2 -31
Cyl #3 -4
Cyl #4 20
Cyl #5 10
Cyl #6 13
Cyl #7 01
Cyl #8 16

Time for all 8 to be swapped out or something else?

 

You have to command your IPR closed or actually jumper a ground to it. It is supplied power at "key on", but waits for the PCM to supply the ground.

Lots of threads on the different options to get it closed (which is a necessity).

 

Roger that thank you. I've read so many different things on that and was hoping for the easy way out.