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2006 F250 6.0 - Working Out The Kinks

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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

2006 F250 6.0 - Working Out The Kinks

  #31  
Old 09-18-2018, 06:24 PM
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That pick up foot on diesels goes all the way back to the mid 80’s, including Ranger diesels. Sometimes it breaks.


 
  #32  
Old 10-08-2018, 01:18 PM
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Fuel Pressure Gauge

Got a fuel pressure gauge installed. I went with the Max Tow gauge due to the price point and I think it looks pretty good. I haven't gotten a cluster for it yet as I'm not sure what other gauges I might want to install. Pressure is 67 at idle, it will drop two pounds when i step into it so not bad. It looks like the truck already has a blue spring kit installed.


A few notes from the install for anyone who comes across this in the future.

--get the adapter that allows the sensor to be installed into the fuel filter housing. I didn't realize I should have ordered that and had to wait for it to get shipped.
--I used yellow Teflon tape to install the sensor into the adapter. The adapter itself uses an o ring to seal. I've read yellow tape is appropriate for fuel.
--Fuse taps make it so you don't have to cut into any part of your harness. They were pretty easy to use after I watched this video on YouTube (
) and checked the fuses to see which ones cutoff and where the hot side of the fuse was. I don't remember which ones I used but can look it again if it will help somebody. Only bad thing about using the fuse taps is the fuse box cover won't fit back on - I'll have to cut some of the plastic or something.

Also got my injector replaced. I'll post again on that shortly.
 

Last edited by erehtuo; 10-08-2018 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Added photo
  #33  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:03 AM
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Fuel Injector #7

I was finally able to change out the fuel injector on cylinder #7. That is the one that had thrown a cylinder contribution code. Truck runs much better and no longer skips or stumbles. The prior owner had told me that two injectors were bad so I'm not sure there isn't another one that needs replacement, but #7 was certainly the worst. Without testing, I don't think I'll be able to know if another one is bad until a cylinder contribution code is thrown. Not worrying about it right now.

I had a few concerns after tearing into the truck with prior work that had been on it. The prior owner had work done at a local shop in Conway SC and I can't believe they let it leave as it was.

--First, some of the 10mm nuts that hold the glow plug relay on the valve cover were missing. One of the two that was on there, was way too tight and already boogered up. I had to drill into it and tap it loose with a hammer and a chisel. I bent the valve cover stud/bolt getting that nut off.
--Second, two of the bolts that hold the oil rail down (the ones in the back down low) were missing. I guess they thought they were too hard to get to?
--Third, I'm not sure if an issue or not but the front dummy plug was a 12mm allen and the rear was a 10mm allen. I thought the updated parts were 12mm so did they only decide to update the front one? I'll be researching this.
--Finally, the prior owner just had the oil changed before I bought the truck at a local chain shop. I found they didn't install the drain plug with a crush washer when I went to change the oil. Luckily I think that may have been the majority of my oil leak.

So I got it all back together as it was but I'll have to order those missing bolts/nuts and open it up again at some point. I could also tell that injectors 1&3 had been replaced but injector #5 was old like #7. I may just replace that one to have them all new on that bank.

A few notes on my install:

--mileage at 233,000
--battery terminal nuts 8mm
--glow plug relay nuts 10mm (use deep socket/ratcheting wrench)
--valve cover bolts 12mm (use deep socket/ratcheting wrench)
--oil rail bolts T30 I believe
--injector bolt T40, you really do need an extended shank torx. About 2 inches. Mine was too long to work on the back injector, I ended up making it work and was able to get a proper torque with a shorter torx and extension but not ideal. Will be ordering a shorter, extended torx.
--Per dieseltechron, "The passenger is odd" when remembering which cylinders are odd and even. The front cylinders would be one and two so the back injector I replaced was #7, passenger side, closest to the rear.
--injector torque 26 ft pounds.
--cycle the key on and off (not starting the car) to build up fuel pressure. Mine took a few times, the gauge was very helpful here. I also bumped the engine a few times with the starter bump on the passenger side to build up the oil pressure, not sure if that was needed.

After I buttoned everything up I went ahead and changed the fuel filters with Racor/Parker ones. Wix was in there previously. I also changed the oil to Rotella T6 5W-40 and put a Racor/Parker oil filter in there with a stock Motorcraft cap. I took it for a drive to pickup my travel trailer where I had left it in storage after the hurricane, about an hour and 45 minutes away and the I noticed the craziest thing. After an hour of driving 60 MPH, my EOT was only 188 and ECT was about 186! Previously the EOT had gone all the way up to 233 without the trailer. On the way back while towing I saw the EOT get as high as 216 while my ECT was about 202 but it generally stayed around 210 with the ECT at 198. Previously EOT had hit 245 towing on the same route. I'm speculating here but I think the T6 5W-40 is able to dissipate heat much better than whatever oil had been in the truck before, likely a conventional 15W-40. Flushing the cooling system is next up for me and I'm hoping a backflush on the oil cooler may save me some work in not having to replace that right away.
 
  #34  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:13 AM
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Injector box from Rockauto. Looks like Ford Motorcraft



​​​​old injector



Not really visible here but oil rail bolts missing from the bottom. 10mm Allen in the dummy plug
 
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