When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So what else should I do to do it properly at that point, don't want to take it on the highway or steep hills if I have left anything out...
There’s a good discussion in the following thread, covering the importance of bench bleeding a master cylinder. My thoughts on the matter start at post #5:
It's a big white piece of paper in the box. It takes awhile to find the appropriate language, but most all I have ever read says "no warranty if this unit is not bench bled". And they come with the little plugs in the box to bench bleed it also, if you ever wondered what those little plastic colored plugs were for.
It's a big white piece of paper in the box. It takes awhile to find the appropriate language, but most all I have ever read says "no warranty if this unit is not bench bled".
That paper is just padding for shipping. But now you're saying we're supposed to actually read the words (so-called instructions) on the padding AND do what it says? Crazy talk, crazy talk I tell ya! Where's a moderator?
Thanks lads for all the help, bled at each wheel and everything looks good around there, plus no air really present. Brakes have normalized and now half way on the pedal is stopping the truck, feel really good and ready for a long downhill test... they passed the super steep downhill test; slow to a stop and emergency lock 'em up!