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My passenger side manual locking hub is stuck, tried re greasing it, didn’t work. Tried putting the driver side one on that actually works on, doesn’t work. Starting to think it’s not the hub but something else? Any ideas?
Is it turning to the unlock position and just not releasing the axle shaft? Sometimes, hitting the hub gently with a rubber mallet or simply knocking on it with your fist will convince it to release. The unreliability of the stock hubs causes many to go with mile markers or warns.
Is it turning to the unlock position and just not releasing the axle shaft? Sometimes, hitting the hub gently with a rubber mallet or simply knocking on it with your fist will convince it to release. The unreliability of the stock hubs causes many to go with mile markers or warns.
The stub shaft has splines at the end and the shaft extends through the knuckle then the hub.
The outer end of the hub has a cavity with splines around it. The locking hub slides into this cavity. The locking hub has splines on the inner and outer portion that engage the splines on the shaft and hub respectively. When the locking hub is unlocked the inner and outer portions rotate independently and the wheel is not "locked" to the axle. When the locking hub is locked the portions are engaged (locked) together and the axle and wheel are "locked" together.
Once you understand that there are two hubs that makes it easier: The main wheel hub that bolts to the knuckle (that the wheel mounts to) and the locking hub that goes in the middle to lock the axle to the main hub (wheel).
These aren't my pictures but they show what I was describing:
The stub shaft has splines at the end and the shaft extends through the knuckle then the hub.
The outer end of the hub has a cavity with splines around it. The locking hub slides into this cavity. The locking hub has splines on the inner and outer portion that engage the splines on the shaft and hub respectively. When the locking hub is unlocked the inner and outer portions rotate independently and the wheel is not "locked" to the axle. When the locking hub is locked the portions are engaged (locked) together and the axle and wheel are "locked" together.
Once you understand that there are two hubs that makes it easier: The main wheel hub that bolts to the knuckle (that the wheel mounts to) and the locking hub that goes in the middle to lock the axle to the main hub (wheel).
These aren't my pictures but they show what I was describing:
Main (wheel) hub:
Locking hub:
So then why does my u joint still spin when the axle is disengaged
The needle bearing is probbally seized up happened to me I rode it out than got to replace the inner axle seal because the shaft tore that up as a secondary issue caused by the primary one. I bought the kit w ball joints , inner axle seals, the. 2 outer seals, u joint, wheel bearing hub assembly. And stub shaft which is usually destroyed by the time the repair is done. All ford/spicer parts
Figured it out, buddy of mine knows a lot more on axles than I do. The driver side hub was locked up and wouldn’t disengage, passenger side would spin cause it’s the longer axle shaft. So in conclusion I bought new hubs
I thought you had switched driver side hub to pass. side? I presumed you had cleared it from being driver side issue if you were in there, had it out and switched it. Glad you got it figured out. What brand hubs did you go with?
I thought you had switched driver side hub to pass. side? I presumed you had cleared it from being driver side issue if you were in there, had it out and switched it. Glad you got it figured out. What brand hubs did you go with?
Yes I did, but I switched it back afterwards, I went with G2s my friend has them and they work well.
07-10-2018, 09:26 PM
