Vehicle:

2006 Expedition 5.4L 4x4

Symptoms:

After valve body R/R, vehicle wants to move forward when shifted in R, N, or D. Shifter physically cannot be moved down to 2 or 1.

Details:
Several weeks ago, the trans lockup converter began engaging almost all the time. The symptoms matched TSB 09-20-14. Need to replace #7 check valve.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...sb09-20-14.pdf

This weekend I pulled the valve body, replaced the TCC solenoid for good measure, and used a Sonnax Zip Kit to replace all the check valves as well as any other part that was practical to replace.

Sonnax Zip Kit instructions:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...f?v=1527266273

I skipped steps 8-10 as all I REALLY needed to do was step 7 (replace check valves).

Today I put it all back together and noticed the symptom I described above. I suspect that the Manual Valve is not in the correct position and that is my whole problem, but I'm unsure. Per page 6 of the manual, the valve was to be placed a certain way:



Now, I realize that I didn't position that valve in any specific way. What I'm confused about is how the shifter makes a connection to that valve. Do I just move the valve a bit and expect the shifter assembly to move it around? Does it clip on somewhere?

When I removed the valve body, that valve didn't need to be disconnected to anything. It just came down.


Also, I found this on the floor:



Where does that go?

 

You dont need that filter anymore so throw it away.

The manual valve is not connected to the internal linkage, you will have to remove the pan and index the manual valve. You will have to remove the valve body again or loosen the linkage to make this connection.

 

Excellent, thank you! That is exactly what I needed to see. I'll just unbolt the valve body and pay closer attention to that when repositioning it all. I did the R/R from the passenger side (on my back, in the home garage, hating life) so I was completely blind to that.

Good to hear the filter can be discarded.

105k miles on the ticker and the factory dipstick plug was found in the pan. Totally overdue. I bought it at around 70k miles.

 

 

Good to see that you got it sorted out. I ship valve bodys to people all the time who have never installed one in their life. That one thing right there is the most common issue I see even when they have good instructions with good pictures telling them to make sure that this is assembled correctly before the pan goes on.

D

 

Yes, I can see it being a common mistake. The Sonnax instructions do not call it out, but the guy who answers the tech line over there did his best to help although he is really only there to support the kit, not the other steps, as they typically sell to trans shops.

This is was my second valve body removal. I did it on my old '99 Grand Cherokee 4.7L once. That one didn't have a "got ya!" like this.

A big part of what caused me to miss that, as I already mentioned, is that I worked on it from the passenger side laying on the floor on my back. From my point of view, I couldn't see the manual valve and it's connection to the shifter. Because of all the trans fluid drippage, I didn't crawl further to visually inspect the other side before putting the pan on. Mainly because my other experience with the Jeep trans was that you just unbolt and reattach and good to go.

The good news is that my trans is shifting better than it did before. Totally fixed, lock up and everything. What a hassle, but I saved a bunch of money doing it myself.

 

Congrats!

Yeah, pulling the valve body dumps just over half of the contents of the converter so it gets messy.

D