RockAuto door cable choice incomplete
#1
RockAuto door cable choice incomplete
Just noticed that RockAuto only offers the lower cable on the driver side rear barn door. My upper cable has failed. As usual, it's the plastic sheath ends that fail, not the cable.
1A Auto doesn't have the full cable either either, but they offer this kit.
https://www.1aauto.com/ford-door-handle-latch-cable-repair-kit/i/1admx00235?f=1104665&y=1999
I'm tired of these cheesy plastic end bits breaking when the cable is still very strong. I'd give this kit a try. IF it were in stock...
Looks like Amazon has the metal repair kits.
1A Auto doesn't have the full cable either either, but they offer this kit.
https://www.1aauto.com/ford-door-handle-latch-cable-repair-kit/i/1admx00235?f=1104665&y=1999
I'm tired of these cheesy plastic end bits breaking when the cable is still very strong. I'd give this kit a try. IF it were in stock...
Looks like Amazon has the metal repair kits.
#2
#3
Just noticed that RockAuto only offers the lower cable on the driver side rear barn door. My upper cable has failed. As usual, it's the plastic sheath ends that fail, not the cable.
1A Auto doesn't have the full cable either either, but they offer this kit.
https://www.1aauto.com/ford-door-handle-latch-cable-repair-kit/i/1admx00235?f=1104665&y=1999
I'm tired of these cheesy plastic end bits breaking when the cable is still very strong. I'd give this kit a try. IF it were in stock...
Looks like Amazon has the metal repair kits.
https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Replacement-Expedition-Excursion-Navigator/dp/B01FS6527G/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FS 6527G&pd_rd_r=68aa5f45-7e66-11e8-9eaa-59d6a16b2647&pd_rd_w=7iOFc&pd_rd_wg=wQgMo&pf_rd_i= desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=391456861833012 4508&pf_rd_r=M7PQY0P1EKS8V4W7SHFY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=M7PQY0P1EKS8V4W7SH FY
1A Auto doesn't have the full cable either either, but they offer this kit.
https://www.1aauto.com/ford-door-handle-latch-cable-repair-kit/i/1admx00235?f=1104665&y=1999
I'm tired of these cheesy plastic end bits breaking when the cable is still very strong. I'd give this kit a try. IF it were in stock...
Looks like Amazon has the metal repair kits.
https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Replacement-Expedition-Excursion-Navigator/dp/B01FS6527G/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FS 6527G&pd_rd_r=68aa5f45-7e66-11e8-9eaa-59d6a16b2647&pd_rd_w=7iOFc&pd_rd_wg=wQgMo&pf_rd_i= desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=391456861833012 4508&pf_rd_r=M7PQY0P1EKS8V4W7SHFY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=M7PQY0P1EKS8V4W7SH FY
The metal ends are the way to go, really work well. They're even cheaper on eBay, I paid about $5.00 for a set of four, shipped. Note that for the upper latch you will need a "cam lock" end, the regular won't work. There's YouTube videos on the replacement procedure. Another important thing is to shave the housing cover down before you try to slid the end on, otherwise it'll be extremely hard. I used a bench grinder, rough sand paper would probably work too. I've seen videos of people drilling out the ends, but it isn't necessary.
And you don't need to remove the cable from the top latch, you.can slide the end on while it's connected, just make sure all the old end is removed.
Cam end install:
Last edited by jimbomitch; 07-03-2018 at 07:26 AM. Reason: added link
#6
Well, I bought those metal things to use on my side cargo door. The outer handle would not open the door. Watched several vids about installing these, so I felt confident that I could fix the cable. Needed to file the slots to get the cable into them. Needed to trim the cable sheath, for some reason Ford didn't see fit to make them smooth.
My guess is that they install the latch before they weld the inner panel to the door. The only big hole in the inner panel is at the opposite side of the door and removing the latch involves disconnecting several solid bars, lock, etc.. I can see why they charge hundreds of $ to replace these, and why they only sell the complete assembly (all part of the plan at the design stage.)
In any case, once inside the door I found that all of the stupid plastic ferules were junk, so I replaced them all. The door opened once using the outside handle, but now it won't open using either handle. Is there any way to open the latch from inside the door?
My guess is that they install the latch before they weld the inner panel to the door. The only big hole in the inner panel is at the opposite side of the door and removing the latch involves disconnecting several solid bars, lock, etc.. I can see why they charge hundreds of $ to replace these, and why they only sell the complete assembly (all part of the plan at the design stage.)
In any case, once inside the door I found that all of the stupid plastic ferules were junk, so I replaced them all. The door opened once using the outside handle, but now it won't open using either handle. Is there any way to open the latch from inside the door?
#7
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#9
Oh, you have barn doors, I was thinking slider. I'm pretty sure they operate like the rear doors. The left door latches at top/bottom and the right one latches in the center, to the closed left door. These cables aren't too difficult to repair, if you remove each latch assembly. Some people have done it leaving the latches in place, but I can imagine it's a PIA.
#10
There is a way to open them from the inside despite failed cables. You need to know how to work both top and bottom latches from inside. This requires you to understand their operation. They have to be opened at the same time. Or open one and hold that part of the door slightly open with a shim, but not too much as it would put excessive pressure on the remaining latch.
I didn't know how to do it the first time, so I took it to my mechanic. Now I've had those stupid latches out in my hands enough times to know how they work. You have to see it. Telling you won't work. If you don't know how they work, you need somebody to show you. I didn't find any good youtube videos on it btw.
When you say file the slots, I hope you don't mean on the latch. You just need observation and patience. But we filed the slots on some of the the metal end ferrules in order to get them on. That was the top latch on the driver side rear barn door. Filing a little aluminum part that cost $2 is smarter than filing the latch. No idea how much it costs. Another thing we found is that you really have to jam the metal ferrules onto the cable ends.
Hope this helps. Persevere, brother.
I didn't know how to do it the first time, so I took it to my mechanic. Now I've had those stupid latches out in my hands enough times to know how they work. You have to see it. Telling you won't work. If you don't know how they work, you need somebody to show you. I didn't find any good youtube videos on it btw.
When you say file the slots, I hope you don't mean on the latch. You just need observation and patience. But we filed the slots on some of the the metal end ferrules in order to get them on. That was the top latch on the driver side rear barn door. Filing a little aluminum part that cost $2 is smarter than filing the latch. No idea how much it costs. Another thing we found is that you really have to jam the metal ferrules onto the cable ends.
Hope this helps. Persevere, brother.
#11
I'm in the process of doing my left door as well. Did the right one and all the ends were crumbled. I figured it would be wise to do the left door while I could still open it. All the ends were deteriorated, but the door still opened.
The metal ends are the way to go, really work well. They're even cheaper on eBay, I paid about $5.00 for a set of four, shipped. Note that for the upper latch you will need a "cam lock" end, the regular won't work. There's YouTube videos on the replacement procedure. Another important thing is to shave the housing cover down before you try to slid the end on, otherwise it'll be extremely hard. I used a bench grinder, rough sand paper would probably work too. I've seen videos of people drilling out the ends, but it isn't necessary.
And you don't need to remove the cable from the top latch, you.can slide the end on while it's connected, just make sure all the old end is removed.
Cam end install: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HO8cGvPOTtw
#12
There is a way to open them from the inside despite failed cables. You need to know how to work both top and bottom latches from inside. This requires you to understand their operation. They have to be opened at the same time. Or open one and hold that part of the door slightly open with a shim, but not too much as it would put excessive pressure on the remaining latch.
I didn't know how to do it the first time, so I took it to my mechanic. Now I've had those stupid latches out in my hands enough times to know how they work. You have to see it. Telling you won't work. If you don't know how they work, you need somebody to show you. I didn't find any good youtube videos on it btw.
The more I work with modern vehicles the more I miss my old Volkswagens.
When you say file the slots, I hope you don't mean on the latch. You just need observation and patience. But we filed the slots on some of the the metal end ferrules in order to get them on. That was the top latch on the driver side rear barn door. Filing a little aluminum part that cost $2 is smarter than filing the latch. No idea how much it costs. Another thing we found is that you really have to jam the metal ferrules onto the cable ends.
Hope this helps. Persevere, brother.[/QUOTE]
No, I did not mean on the latch. Those metal ferules required filing to make the slot larger and filing to make the thing fit into the slots for the ferule ( then twist the thing to get it to stay in place.) The whole assembly is f***ing GOOFY!
#13
Hope that helps....
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