2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start

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2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start

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  #1  
Old 07-02-2018, 12:58 PM
Blaisegravoisjr
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2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start

Ran the truck last week and parked it for a few days and now it wont start. I turn the key on for the glow plugs to heat up and the light goes off after about 1 minute or longer but truck just turns over strong but wont start. Was told it could be glow plug relay or some fuel solenoid not sure where either one is located or know how to tell what the problem maybe Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2018, 01:25 PM
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I doubt that glow plugs would cause a no start at this time of year, particularly in LA. Does your fuel pump run for about 20 seconds when you turn the key on? It sounds like your WTS light lights so that should rule out fuse #30. How's your oil level? Do you have any way to read codes? Check your IPR for the tinnerman nut on the back of it. Make sure it's there and on tight. How is your ICP sensor? Is there oil in the plug when you unplug it? You can unplug that sensor and the PCM will read a default number that will let the truck run without that sensor in the event it is bad.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 02:33 PM
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I would go ahead and check the glow plug relay, unless it is a California truck (you are in LA?). I think the California trucks have a glow plug controller. Agree it should start if the weather is that warm.

More important, check your oil level. If it gets too low, the engine will not run.

And like above, the fuel pump should run for about 20 seconds when the key is first turned on.

If it were me, I would get an OBD-2 dongle and hook it up to a tablet (or laptop). The 7.3 needs a few things to start. Sufficient battery voltage, minimum starting RPM, minimum high pressure oil, and a couple other parameters. I'm still learning that part, a good writeup can be found by looking at the links in the signature of any post by "Tugly."

The few dollars for this diagnostic setup will pay for itself on the first part you don't need to buy. Shotgunning parts gets expensive very fast.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DogRidesInBack View Post
I think the California trucks have a glow plug controller.
It's the Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM).
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DogRidesInBack View Post
I would go ahead and check the glow plug relay, unless it is a California truck (you are in LA?). I think the California trucks have a glow plug controller.
I believe they are referring to LA as in Louisiana. Or Lower Alabama. Multiple LA's better than commiefornia.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:31 PM
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Im from Louisiana. I have a friend with a code reader that I will get and use.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:28 PM
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Happy days that you are not in Los Angeles! So you should have a GPR instead of a GPCM.

My GPR was pretty much dead and I was starting OK until the temps dropped at the end of last year. So that is not why your truck is not starting. But it is easy to check and it is also one of the prime candidates for a "no cold start" problem.

I can give you some pointers on that, but a better question is how you see approaching your problem...

Do you want to do as much as you can yourself?

Do you want to troubleshoot and then take the truck to a shop for the repairs?

Are you just wanting to get a sense of cost before going to a shop?

Are you comfortable with basic hand tools?

Do you know how to use a volt-ohm meter?

FYI, many of the typical code readers will not read codes from our engines. Our engines are not really OBD-2 compliant. So if your friend's unit seems "wonky." don't sweat it, it does not cost much to get a better tool. And if I missed it earlier, Welcome to FTE!
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mcnance865 View Post
I believe they are referring to LA as in Louisiana. Or Lower Alabama. Multiple LA's better than commiefornia.
My bad. We Californians tend to only think of ourselves.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:19 PM
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I have to be honest I don't know much about motors I know a little. I'm almost at the point to getting it to a shop and let them look at it.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:20 PM
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Make sure you find a shop that knows the 7.3L.

These are old trucks and the engine seems to be a lost art form to them. You can take it in for an oil change and they'll tell you that you have a bad injector.

Call around to find a reputable shop. Lots of school (short) buses still use the T444E (International 7.3L) so the fleet has to be maintained somewhere.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:00 PM
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My truck did that many years ago. I drove it home ,parked it,a few days latter ,it would crank over just fine but would not start. I pulled the tuner chip out of it and it fired right up. Called tuner company and sent it to them . They said it was bad and sent me a new one at no charge.
 
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:05 AM
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So I didn't have much time to mess with anything due to the fact I was leaving on family vacation last week. the only thing I was able to try doing was hooking up a code reader only problem was found I had a fuse burnt to the code reader port so I replaced that and hooked up a code reader but the multiple readers I try say the same thing connection error. the fuel pump does run for about 20 to 30 seconds when I turn the key on. what I did notice though on the dash the following lights are staying on: Check engine, check gauge, battery and air bag light are constantly staying on. Could this be an electrical issue?
 
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:21 AM
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Welcome back!

It could be an electrical issue, but it could also be the code reader. These trucks are not really completely OBD2 compliant. Many of the parts store readers also will not read the codes on this engine. Including the ones they use for free code reading.

What reader are you using?

Check out TorquePro or Forscan for these engines.

And back to cold-start basics, have you got out a voltmeter and checked out the glow plug system? Lots of information is in this thread from when I had a failed GPR:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
 
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:43 PM
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Gpr reads 12.5 on passenger side nut with key off and with key on the driver side nut doesn't read anything.
 
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaisegravoisjr View Post
Gpr reads 12.5 on passenger side nut with key off and with key on the driver side nut doesn't read anything.
If I remember the schematic correctly:
  • With key off, one of the little lugs on the GPR should read 0 ohms to ground.
  • With key on, the other little lug should read 12 V for at least 6 seconds and possibly up to two minutes.
If both of the above are true, you have a bad GPR. If either of the above are not true, there is an electrical issue.

On edit: See post 18 below, looks like I remember the schematic wrong! Using strikeout font on my original post for history purposes.
 
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