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2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start

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2003 f250 powerstroke 7.3L wont start

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  #16  
Old 07-09-2018, 06:16 PM
Blaisegravoisjr
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Originally Posted by Blaisegravoisjr View Post
Gpr reads 12.5 on passenger side nut with key off and with key on the driver side nut doesn't read anything.
i was told how to bypass this but still didn't work. Truck still turns over but don't start
 
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  #17  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:10 PM
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Fixing to replace GPR and see if that works
 
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2018, 07:35 PM
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Just throwing parts at it gets expensive. I recommend that you take the time and troubleshoot. There are four wires on the GPR. Front one should have power when key is on, the rear one grounds through the PCM and the PCM grounds it when glow plugs are called for. Remove the rear wire on the GPR (the lead to the PCM) then ground the GPR at that lug while the key is on and see if the GPR works. You can hear it click when it activates. Then once you have it activated check the right hand lug for voltage.
 
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  #19  
Old 07-10-2018, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
There are four wires on the GPR. Front one should have power when key is on, the rear one grounds through the PCM and the PCM grounds it when glow plugs are called for. Remove the rear wire on the GPR (the lead to the PCM) then ground the GPR at that lug while the key is on and see if the GPR works. You can hear it click when it activates. Then once you have it activated check the right hand lug for voltage.
Thanks for posting this. I had it wrong in my post 15. I have edited my post to refer readers to your post.

And to the OP... It only takes a couple minutes to troubleshoot the GPR, about 20 minutes to swap it. The least expensive quality GPR if you do swap is the GPR-109 from NAPA. The lugs on the top are clocked 1/4 turn from stock but the wires do reach the right locations.

The NAPA GPR-110 is the "stock" replacement and cost is at least double. Then the dealer for true OEM or the IH part at yet more $$$. The Standcor relay is considered the upgrade around here.

I put a GPR-109 in mine. Remember to remove the ground lugs from your batteries before doing a swap, that first big lug is always hot and has a lot of amps available.
 
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  #20  
Old 07-13-2018, 06:49 PM
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I am not getting power to fuel pump. Is there a relay or something the fuse in #40 has power but not the fuelift pump
 
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  #21  
Old 07-13-2018, 06:58 PM
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Don't have power to the fuel shut off switch also
 
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  #22  
Old 07-14-2018, 07:55 AM
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Check all fuses. The fuel pump will only run for about twenty seconds when the key is turned on so you need to be quick or get a helper to check for power.
 
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  #23  
Old 07-14-2018, 11:22 AM
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Google the no-start chart and quit throwing parts at it! These trucks are fairly easy to diagnose if you follow a plan, not to meniton there are 1,000,000 no-start threads with all of this information. I get being new, but look at the stickies as well. Get a code reader that works....and again, look up the no-start flow chart for the 7.3. Our guess is as good as yours without any codes or pertinent information.
 
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  #24  
Old 07-15-2018, 08:47 AM
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I thought that it was fuse #30 that ran the pump.
 
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2018, 03:38 PM
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Fuse #30 runs the PCM.
 
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2018, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HD Rider View Post
Fuse #30 runs the PCM.
Doh, that's right, PCM and fuel bowl heater.
 
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