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Turbo 67 f100 inline 6 300!!

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  #16  
Old 06-26-2018, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusto1002 View Post
The cast can penetrate and hold well with a weld if it's preheated a bit. I made it like that for ease the way it is i can access every bolt and take off seperately if i want to and didn't have any adapters and really didn't feel like making any. And the turbo is a flipped intake side up to be a draw through. You can't run a Holley 4 barrel sideways last I checked.
Ahh yes draw through I was thinking blow through type. Canít wait to see burnout pics and maybe Dyno results?
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:01 PM
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I watched a episode of Roadkill the other day on YouTube. They used a 7.3 turbo on a 302 with good results. They did have oil drain back issues and pretty sure they ended up using a little pump to help get rid of extra oil in the turbo. It was pretty smoky before that. Hope having the turbo mounted like that doesnít give you any issues.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by J ballan View Post
I watched a episode of Roadkill the other day on YouTube. They used a 7.3 turbo on a 302 with good results. They did have oil drain back issues and pretty sure they ended up using a little pump to help get rid of extra oil in the turbo. It was pretty smoky before that. Hope having the turbo mounted like that doesnít give you any issues.
I watch roadkill pretty often only one I think you could mean is the rotsun. If they had issues I might too. Prolly be safe and get some crappy pump for the outlet. Thanks for the heads up!
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:30 PM
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That big flap is not the wastegate, it's a backpressure valve for warmup. I usually remove it on the turbos with the t4 flange. That gives a nice 3 bolt flange to use, instead of the v band. If you don't have the t4 flange turbo, you have the smaller .84 housing. (Unless it's a van turbo). The wastegate flap is only about 1.5" if it's equipped. Post more pics of the turbo. It looks like a superduty turbo with the 5bolt compressor cover. T4 flange ones usually had 4 bolt covers. There are a few transition turbos that I call mongrels. Usually bigger trucks and early 99 superduty trucks are weird.

The oil drain needs to be as big as possible, because it will leak by the oil ring of the pressure has to push the old oil out of the center cartridge.

That turbo, if stock, is more than likely a gtp38. There is a ball bearing version called gtp38r or gt38r. I don't remember it being stock.

 
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusto1002 View Post
I watch roadkill pretty often only one I think you could mean is the rotsun. If they had issues I might too. Prolly be safe and get some crappy pump for the outlet. Thanks for the heads up!
Use an electric pump to feed the carb. Then use the mechanical fuel pump to pull oil out of the turbo drain reservoir.
You might get frosting of the carb at high demand. And could freeze up. I made a carb spacer for a guy that had engine coolant going through it to keep it warm on his race car. Just something to watch for.
 
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  #21  
Old 06-27-2018, 09:25 AM
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cool project , very interested in seeing how she Performs .
the 300 is a good engine I had a 94 f150 with the 300 , didn't win any races but could haul anything , I had two bagger Harley Davidsons in the back and couldn't tell they were there .
 
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2018, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND View Post


Use an electric pump to feed the carb. Then use the mechanical fuel pump to pull oil out of the turbo drain reservoir.
You might get frosting of the carb at high demand. And could freeze up. I made a carb spacer for a guy that had engine coolant going through it to keep it warm on his race car. Just something to watch for.
^^^Correct. Also be sure there is a vent of some sort between the turbo drain and the fuel pump or oil pan. The mechanical fuel pump will not work correctly with out one because it will suck the turbo dry and then need time to re-prime. During that period oil issues will become very apparent...and if you drain directly back to the oil pan use a vent inline also as crankcase pressure will cause issues also. Come out of the turbo drain with a T, go straight up with a cheap ebay breather filter and you will be good.

600cfm Holley carb should be big enough to not have to mod the power valve. The vacuum from the draw thru turbo with a small carb can be high enough once spooled to close the power valve which results in a lean mixture and broken pistons and popped head gasket. I would do the mod and be done...same as any blower carb...google...or use an Edelbrock carb.

Lock out the mechanical advance on the dizzy. Set timing to 14* btdc with vacuum line disconnected. Reconnect line to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, should see in the 30's for advance cruising. Install an inline vented check valve on a T, so when boosted, the vacuum advance diaphragm doesn't see pressure. The carb could potentially see some vacuum at higher rpm and you DO NOT want that to advance the timing an unknown amount.

That turbo is a bit big on the turbine side for a STOCK 300, A cam in the 230*@.050 range will make the whole combo rock. Can always block one half of the turbine inlet(down pipe side) to spool sooner also. It looks like you have an auto trans...it should light at the top of 1st gear, when you grab 2nd hang on.

I've been helping a lot people with turboing the 300 and other engines, and if the timing or fuel is wrong, you will only get one ride between cylinder head removals and or pistons. Just speaking truth. If the timing and fuel is correct, you can make 300+hp and 600+tq with a bone stock 300-6 and have it live a long time.
 
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:34 PM
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...also that is a looooong way for the gas to travel from the carb through the turbo down the long pipe and into the intake. May need a primer port for cold starts, might not. There should some decent velocity in that boost pipe being relatively small diameter and the big gulps the 50 cube cylinders take. Unfortunately a larger cam (reversion) would likely be troublesome with this setup.

All that being said, cool idea, may even work better than expected. Take your time working the bugs out, and the boost up.
 
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2018, 03:41 AM
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If you're are uncertain about the turbo bearings getting enough oil, you could always upgrade the oil pump to a high volume model.
Sorry, I posted this before I saw page 2. You can probley disregard it.
 
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:56 AM
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Looks like a fun project!

One thing that comes to mind is the distance between the turbo and the exhaust, might be a good idea to insulate that pipe. Heat turns a turbo not pressure, so you want a s much heat getting to the turbo as possible. Otherwise change the position and put it closer to the exhaust for better response.
 
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Sick6 View Post
^^^Correct. Also be sure there is a vent of some sort between the turbo drain and the fuel pump or oil pan. The mechanical fuel pump will not work correctly with out one because it will suck the turbo dry and then need time to re-prime. During that period oil issues will become very apparent...and if you drain directly back to the oil pan use a vent inline also as crankcase pressure will cause issues also. Come out of the turbo drain with a T, go straight up with a cheap ebay breather filter and you will be good.

600cfm Holley carb should be big enough to not have to mod the power valve. The vacuum from the draw thru turbo with a small carb can be high enough once spooled to close the power valve which results in a lean mixture and broken pistons and popped head gasket. I would do the mod and be done...same as any blower carb...google...or use an Edelbrock carb.

Lock out the mechanical advance on the dizzy. Set timing to 14* btdc with vacuum line disconnected. Reconnect line to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, should see in the 30's for advance cruising. Install an inline vented check valve on a T, so when boosted, the vacuum advance diaphragm doesn't see pressure. The carb could potentially see some vacuum at higher rpm and you DO NOT want that to advance the timing an unknown amount.

That turbo is a bit big on the turbine side for a STOCK 300, A cam in the 230*@.050 range will make the whole combo rock. Can always block one half of the turbine inlet(down pipe side) to spool sooner also. It looks like you have an auto trans...it should light at the top of 1st gear, when you grab 2nd hang on.

I've been helping a lot people with turboing the 300 and other engines, and if the timing or fuel is wrong, you will only get one ride between cylinder head removals and or pistons. Just speaking truth. If the timing and fuel is correct, you can make 300+hp and 600+tq with a bone stock 300-6 and have it live a long time.
check valve for the distributor line? Where would I find one of those? Appreciate the help
 
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Sick6 View Post
^^^Correct. Also be sure there is a vent of some sort between the turbo drain and the fuel pump or oil pan. The mechanical fuel pump will not work correctly with out one because it will suck the turbo dry and then need time to re-prime. During that period oil issues will become very apparent...and if you drain directly back to the oil pan use a vent inline also as crankcase pressure will cause issues also. Come out of the turbo drain with a T, go straight up with a cheap ebay breather filter and you will be good.

600cfm Holley carb should be big enough to not have to mod the power valve. The vacuum from the draw thru turbo with a small carb can be high enough once spooled to close the power valve which results in a lean mixture and broken pistons and popped head gasket. I would do the mod and be done...same as any blower carb...google...or use an Edelbrock carb.

Lock out the mechanical advance on the dizzy. Set timing to 14* btdc with vacuum line disconnected. Reconnect line to the INTAKE MANIFOLD, should see in the 30's for advance cruising. Install an inline vented check valve on a T, so when boosted, the vacuum advance diaphragm doesn't see pressure. The carb could potentially see some vacuum at higher rpm and you DO NOT want that to advance the timing an unknown amount.

That turbo is a bit big on the turbine side for a STOCK 300, A cam in the 230*@.050 range will make the whole combo rock. Can always block one half of the turbine inlet(down pipe side) to spool sooner also. It looks like you have an auto trans...it should light at the top of 1st gear, when you grab 2nd hang on.

I've been helping a lot people with turboing the 300 and other engines, and if the timing or fuel is wrong, you will only get one ride between cylinder head removals and or pistons. Just speaking truth. If the timing and fuel is correct, you can make 300+hp and 600+tq with a bone stock 300-6 and have it live a long time.
so I found a check valve but you said to t it. Where would the 3rd connection go. From dizzy to check valve to intake manifold. What's the 3rd though for a t. I don't have power brakes or a.c. which is all I could think of needing vacuum. Carburetor?
 
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:56 PM
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vacuum advance
^
x
x
x
x
xxxxxx check valve xxx> atomoshere
x
x
x
x
v
intake manifold

When the intake manifold has vacuum during idle and cruise, the check valve will be closed to provide spark advance. When spooled and the intake manifold has boost, the check valve opens to atmosphere to prevent the vacuum advance diaphragm from being ruptured. More details are in the sleeper thread...
 
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog View Post
Looks like a fun project!

One thing that comes to mind is the distance between the turbo and the exhaust, might be a good idea to insulate that pipe. Heat turns a turbo not pressure, so you want a s much heat getting to the turbo as possible. Otherwise change the position and put it closer to the exhaust for better response.
X2

Better turbo response and throttle response with the turbo closer to the manifolds. I think it would be day and night difference with a draw thru.
 
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:52 PM
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Started it up today. It sort of worked. Backfired through the car. That's too far advanced. Which way do you rotate the dizzy? Clockwise to retard timing correct? Still need to get my electric fuel pump and weld in my wastegate.
 
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