I seem to be having some problems with the rear axles. We replaced the bearings, diff oil, rotor, caliper, and brake pads on both sides yet it is still getting hot but not so hot that its turning red.
We are not towing anything with it just driving for 30 mins down the road. By that time the turning start to be difficult and rear tires start skipping half way through the turn. How do we fix this problem so we dont have to replace the bearings and oil again?

 

Help us understand what is getting hot. Are you referring to the engine coolant temperature gauge not quite getting in to the red, or are you suggesting the rear differential is getting really hot? Are the brake rotors getting hot? Have you confirmed the parking brake is not stuck and that the brake hoses are not collapsed internally and acting as a check valve?

-Rod

 

The rear diff and axle tubes are hot along with the wheels, etc. The emergency/parking brakes have been physically removed. The calipers and pads were replaced, and bled easily.

 

If you have a thermal imaging camera or even an IR temperature gun see if you can determine where the heat is originating from (end of the axle tubes, brakes, pinion snout, or "pumpkin").

I read that you replaced the brake calipers and the pads, but have not seen where you replaced the brake hoses. Brake hoses deteriorate from the inside out and if they have been kinked in the past they can turn in to one way valves, allowing fluid to travel to the caliper with the force the master cylinder applies but not allowing the fluid to travel back to the reservoir under the amount of force the calipers can exert trying to retract. That keeps the brakes applied slightly which can generate a lot of heat and cause the pads to wear quickly and often unevenly. I'm aware of several folks who have replaced calipers and pads due to "stuck calipers" that would not compress easily when the issue ultimately was failed brake hoses, even though the hoses looked fine from the outside.

A brake issue causing a lot of heat in the rear would be much more common than an issue with the axle bearings or differential and is also easier to rule out if it is not the cause.

-Rod

 

That sounds more like a center differential problem, it normally allows enough slip to prevent binding in the drivetrain when cornering but when the diff begins to fail it tightens up and starts to exhibit this type of behavour. I familiar with this after owning several AWD Subarus with lots of miles on them.