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Need help with no start after injectors replacement

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Need help with no start after injectors replacement

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  #1  
Old 06-24-2018, 12:37 PM
TheDieselChick
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Need help with no start after injectors replacement

Ok guys so I just bought a 2002 7.3 that the injectors just got replaced 28 miles before I bought the truck. They replaced all 8 and glow plugs and cups a local diesel shop did all the work so assuming it's been done correctly. Got to the truck took a good 10 seconds to start so not right off the bat but it started. Ran fine lots of white smoke which is normal for all 8 injectors being replaced. I bought the truck rode it home it now has around 60 miles on the new injectors. Came out this morning after letting it sit over night and it want start. I tried cranking on it till batteries got weak both are fairly new by the way. HPOP is full and batteries are on charge. While cranking it I was getting white smoke puff out exhaust so assuming injectors are firing. Maybe on the 4th turn over I would get a little sputter like it tried to start then nothing. Really could use some help I need it fixed today I have work in the morning haha. Any help?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2018, 02:21 PM
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Tried unplugging the icp sensor near the front of DS head?
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:42 PM
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First, charge the batteries. You need north of 10-10.5 volts for it to crank. If you have jumpers cables and another vehicle handy, that would help too. Check the oil level and make sure it is full or at least above the low mark on the dip stick. It will crank and run when the oil is a bit lower than that but it is not ideal for the engine nor the injectors. Check the electrical plugs on the inboard middle top side of each head between the head and the valve covers, (UVC) since the valve covers have been off. If one is unplugged or loose, the truck will have trouble cranking and you'll still get white smoke out of the exhaust from the side that is firing. The 7.3L will actually run on 4 cylinders although not very well, obviously. Unplug the ICP sensor and see if it cranks then (drivers side head at the front on the inside) and also see if there is oil in the connector. Check to make sure the tin nut is on the back of the IPR and tight. Check the 42 pin connector to see if the bolt is tight (drivers side head 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back on the fender side of the valve cover bracket). How much fuel is in the tank? If it is below 1/4, add 5 gallons. How many miles are on the truck?


Do you have any way of obtaining live data from the PCM or to obtain codes? That info is infinitely useful. Otherwise, we are all just spitballing. We need to know how high the ICP is (at least 500 psi to start), the IPR%, FIPW (between 1-6 ms to start). Since it is an '02, I don't believe that the tach moves when cranking so we need that info as well and the RPM's should be 100 at a minimum to start. The data stream and or codes will also let us know if the plug or plugs under the valve cover(s) are loose.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:56 PM
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Where are you located? If you don't have direct access to a compatable scantool, there may be a fellow member close by that can help.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:11 PM
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My ICP is throwing 700 kpa at initial turn over and 13000 at cranking over so I'm thinking the ICP is fine I'm getting 40 at the regulator during turn over. The batteries are being charged I drained them to 10.8 from 12.7 during the first round of starting it over. Yesterday I was getting little to no response from turn over today I'm getting response and almost starting but hasn't started yet I'm now on the second time charging the batteries. I will unplug the ICP today and try again but I'm thinking the ICP is alright. Any other advice guys? I'll check all the connections and wiring
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:13 PM
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My scan tool is a CRP 123 pro.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:41 PM
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Have you checked glow plug relay?
if you are getting white smoke the injectors are giving fuel. Try jumping the relay for 20seconds or so before trying to start.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:52 PM
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All the glow plugs where also replaced but I will check the relay as well still charging the batteries up for round 3 of cranking.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:46 PM
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Have you called the diesel shop that did the work and ask what kind of warranty they offer?

After 28 miles, the truck shouldn't have taken 10 seconds to start and still had a bunch of white smoke. A little smoke maybe, but most of that goes away in the first 5 - 10 miles.

I'd start by asking the shop why all 8 injectors, glow plugs, cups were changed. Sounds like they were chasing the same issue you have by just throwing parts at it.

Does your HPOP have a reman tag on it somewhere, or are there any signs of RTV at the front cover where the HPOP gear bolt is?
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:52 PM
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Shop said they where changed because one injector was done for and the shop recommend replacing all 8 due to them going out soon after the other like a Domino's affect. I bought the truck from a guy who got the work done a couple days before I got it. Rich guy had alot of money to just throw at the truck and was not mechanically inclined at all so a shop recomende it to him he was going to do it for sure. I plan on calling the shop tomorrow and talking to the mechanic. I've Hurd guys say it took them almost 100 miles to get the white smoke to clear up and that actually Ford recommends a 6- time 0-60 WOT to get smoke cleared up and a good 3000 RPM hold down. But I'm not sure.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 06:01 PM
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First thing I would do is charge the batteries. You are doing that.

Second, break out the volt/ohm meter and go through the glow plug circuit. Check the glow plug relay and ohm out each of the glow plugs. While you have the ohm meter out, also check the injectors. Ask for details on how to do this if needed.

Once you are satisfied these results are all fine, it is time to break out the scan tool and collect data on the "usual" parameters. Search for any post by "Tugly" and review the links in his signature. His signature is a great resource for a "no start" this engine.

Or as suggested above, back to the shop under warranty... But being the kind of person I am, I would go through the above to find out if it was the shop's work that has a problem or, as suggested in another post, they were also throwing parts at the problem and missed... In which case the problem is still there to find and fix. If that is the case, it is time help the shop out or fix it yourself.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:44 PM
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Update guys, went and unplugged the ICP and got it to start and idle after the third cycle. So I'm gonna order a new ICP from oreilys? They only have 2 brands Dorman and I can't remember the other one but I've never Hurd of it either. You think that's all my issue is?
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:47 PM
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Dorman and BWD the Dorman comes with a new plug and you have to splice the wires the BWD is just the sensor
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:48 PM
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Unfortunately these motors are VERY picky about the brand of sensors they use. Motorcraft, or international harvester only on all sensors. ANY other brand and you'll be replacing the sensor again very soon. Anywhere from right out of the box to a month or two later.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:49 PM
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Ok thanks I'm going to call Ford and international tomorrow and see if they have any of the sensors in stock or can get them ASAP, prefer international honestly. Thanks for all the help. You think the ICP is definitely the culprit of my issues?
 
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