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Does axle wrap ruin carrier bearings/u-joints?

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Does axle wrap ruin carrier bearings/u-joints?

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  #1  
Old 06-19-2018, 10:31 PM
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Does axle wrap ruin carrier bearings/u-joints?

Hey guys my carrier bearing just died. This is the second or third one in about 12 years and around 100,000 miles.
Turns out the bearing was OK but the rubber holding it in disintegrated and left me limping it home.

Turns out the u joints at the output shaft and pinion are both bad, and aren't super old, only 5 years or so. They were NAPA premium which are supposed to be made by SKF.

To the point, i get a LOT of wheel hop very easily, especially now that I have a turbo. It got me thinking that the geometry must get all goofy for the U joint during this situation and maybe besides being really annoying, is also killing my carrier bearing and or U joints.

How it would affect the UJ coming out of the transmission is beyond me.

Thoughts? Also this rig is now a dedicated work/tow pig and sees a trailer of 4.5k most of the miles it runs nowadays.

Incase my signature doesn't show up on the mobile platform...
1989 F250 4x4 with 4.10's, ExCab Long bed 7.3L Factory Turbo maxed IP, pretty much stock everything else.
 
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:29 AM
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Axle wrap can accelerate wear on the rear ujoint. Wheel hop will wear all of them. None of this should be particularly hard on a carrier bearing, not like a ujoint anyway. If you've go factory 1330 joints I suggest having a shaft made with 1350 or 1410 joints. That was my solution to constantly breaking rear ujoints in my 460 truck, 1330 just wouldn't live under the torque, got sick of replacing ujoints and gas tanks.
 
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:38 PM
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One thing it could be is Make sure your driveline is timed right. If the slip yoke on the center of the driveline is not positioned correctly, the driveline will bind up every 1/4 to half turn.

check it like this.

Note the position of the front yoke on the FRONT driveline. The back slip yoke on the FRONT driveline should be clocked just like the yoke on the front of it. If not, it will bind every 90* or something like that. The greater the angle of the driveline, the more pronounced the effect will be.

I have seen this in steering shafts as well that have slip shafts that donít have an alignment spline. Not sure if itís possible on these drive lines but itís worth checking as I donít remeber.

good luck
 
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by FORD MEGA CAB!!! View Post
One thing it could be is Make sure your driveline is timed right. If the slip yoke on the center of the driveline is not positioned correctly, the driveline will bind up every 1/4 to half turn.

check it like this.

Note the position of the front yoke on the FRONT driveline. The back slip yoke on the FRONT driveline should be clocked just like the yoke on the front of it. If not, it will bind every 90* or something like that. The greater the angle of the driveline, the more pronounced the effect will be.

I have seen this in steering shafts as well that have slip shafts that donít have an alignment spline. Not sure if itís possible on these drive lines but itís worth checking as I donít remeber.

good luck
That's a great point. I just re-installed everything and both the output shaft and the slip shaft are keyed, so thankfully no problems there.
 
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
Axle wrap can accelerate wear on the rear ujoint. Wheel hop will wear all of them. None of this should be particularly hard on a carrier bearing, not like a ujoint anyway. If you've go factory 1330 joints I suggest having a shaft made with 1350 or 1410 joints. That was my solution to constantly breaking rear ujoints in my 460 truck, 1330 just wouldn't live under the torque, got sick of replacing ujoints and gas tanks.
I have factory sized joints, but have yet to break one. I've had a few failures but never snapped, always seized(originals), or just noticed them giving up before it was too late, or once I left the straps on the rear yoke too loose, doh.

Sounds like you had quite the built 460!
 
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:05 AM
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Funny my truck had a carrier bearing problem made the truck vibrate like a hell. Get under power truck would hop so bad you would hear the driveshaft hit the floor. Put traction bar in. Hasnt vibrated in 6 months and it stopped hitting the floor. Carrier bearing looks like it should explode.
Should be noted my cab bushing are saggggged bad. And the cab hits the the engine and transmission sometimes lots.
 
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:24 AM
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Are you guys trying to lay long strips of rubber or something?
 
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Old 06-23-2018, 12:56 AM
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Not me, just trying to get places dragging a trailer around. Most of the jobs I use the pickup for are in cities, so tight turns plus accelerating into traffic = wheel hop. It's not a constant thing but happens often enough that I thought I would ask. Plus in the great PNW it rains like 8 months out of the year and so there's more hopping there too, just due to wet roads.

I'd really like to get a Truetrack in the rear for smoother take-offs but that's not in the budget for now.
 
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater View Post
Are you guys trying to lay long strips of rubber or something?
My truck is work truck, it gets an unpleasant hard life, pulling things around or out. Big tires dont help either when I put the 38.5s on probably will get worse, to date exploded one rear end out the back cover, exploded front inner and outer axle shaft when I snapped u joint. Few driveshafts, one transfer case, twisted the tubes on a rear end. Thats in the last 3 years or 4 years. Transmssion and engine stay together quite well at least.
 
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:28 PM
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Iím like a deer in headlights on this thread. So are the wheels actually hopping off the ground under load?

I think the only time I expirenced any kind of actual hopping in mine was when a tire shop didnít align my dually wheels alignment pins when bolting the wheels back up.
 
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:32 PM
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Oh heck yes. ZF5 under near WOT 2nd gear take off will hop the crap out of your inside tire on any right or left hand turn. That was with a good-flowing N/A.
With the turbo it's more like 2/3 throttle 2nd gear. Just too easy and annoying as all get-out.
 
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Old 06-25-2018, 07:17 AM
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if experiencing carrier bearing wear prematurely I have seen some heavier duty and better design carrier bearings. Some with better shielded and larger bearings, others with a polyurethane bushing instead of very soft flexible rubber, some with a solid mount or machined cage around it. There are options if you have trouble with these, but generalyl in lowert power applications without ridiculously long or heavy shafts I don't think carrier bearings are a major wear point, your ujoints will wear or fail more quickly and you'll replace the carrier bearing while you're at it well before it fails.

Larger tires will generally make wheel hop worse, smaller tires will tend to break traction and keep spinning. Also your choice of leaf spring, worn out leafs, as well as leaf and shackle bushign condition can affect wheel hop as well.
 
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Old 06-30-2018, 03:41 PM
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I don't personally think axle wrap is going to cause things like carrier bearing and u joint bearings wear out that much faster. It is hard on the driveline though and can certainly break things or snap u joints.

I put greasable u joints in and grease them every oil change, it doesn't cost much to grease them and it will definitely make them last longer. Things like u joints and carrier bearings are still wear items no matter what preventative maintenance you do or how expensive the parts are.

I just put a new carrier bearing in my truck, it had about 90,000 km's on it and had been in the truck for over 5 years, it was trashed. The rubber was completely broken and half disintegrated and the bearing was fubar.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:29 PM
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Carrier bearing is probably just because the last replacement wasnt as good as factory, dealing with the same issue on mine. As far as u-joints, dont waste money on the NAPA ones, theyre not skf or anything other than soft chinese junk. Put some spicers in there and forget about them for 100k or more. You can get them at most driveline shops for same price as store brand joints if not cheaper. I think the 1350 spicers i put in the fairlane were 22.50.
 
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