Mine is a 73 f250. Dana 60 rear end. I am reshoeing the back brakes and while I'm there I want to replace a rubber brake line that is about 2 feet long.

It looks like it connects onto the metal line from the front, with a wrenchable flare fitting. I can see how to get that apart. But the other end goes to a fitting that is round. No wrench will fit it, except maybe a pipe wrench.

That fitting attaches the rubber hose to a squarish little thing that has 3 other tubes to it. 2 are the metal lines going to the right and left wheels. One is a bigger rubber line that goes nowhere, it just runs upward about 2 feet and then is cut off and tied up out of the way. And the 4th line is the one I would line to replace.

But how? Do I replace the whole squarish fitting along with the hose? Do I take a small pipe wrench to the metal hose end? And what is this, maybe something to do with a trailer setup?

Under the dash there is a brake control for a trailer, that may be a clue. I don't see a trailer in this truck's future, so if there is a simpler replacement part I would like to use that.

Thank you for any help.

 

When you buy the new rear brake hose, it will have the metal block attached to it. The steel brake lines thread in to it. The hose that runs upward is probably a vent hose for the rear axle.

 

thanks scott. Napa may have this part, I will see if it is right when I go there this afternoon.

 

Rear brake hose shown as 2282 in pic. As you can see at upper left, the brass block that is made as part of the hose has a hole it.

The rear axle vent (4022) passes thru the hole, threads into the housing.

D5TZ-2282-E (replaced C8TZ-2282-C) .. Rear Brake Hose - approx. 18 5/8" long / Obsolete

1968 F100 2WD from serial number D40,001 / 1969/72 F100 2WD // 1973/75 F250 2WD

 

numberD---I got the part at Napa, the number on the box is 36606. Looks right, made with steel rather than brass.

I am studying youtube videos about how to make flared tubing. The old stuff has seized in a couple places and one nut now has rounded shoulders and only a pipe wrench fits it.

I'd like to make it so I can go under there in the future and tighten stuff if necessary and not have to deal with a lot of rusted nuts.

Is nickel/copper line good stuff? I see some people only use steel, I wonder why?

 

NiCopp is the way to go, its forgiving and malleable.... .If your on a budget for this project and never anticipate flaring again, you can get a $20 flaring kit from any auto store, but they can be a pain to work with... If you see yourself re tubing the whole truck some day and want easier good quality flares, spend the $100 on a good flaring kit and dont look back.....
Heres a thread on the subject
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-tool.html