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When converting from 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground, Is it OK to use an internally resisted 12 volt coil? Or should I use 12 volt coil with an external ballast resistor? I will have to change lights.
Should I use the 6 volt generator with an installed voltage regulator or just switch to alternator 10SI or 12SI, new brackets and belt? Does anyone know what alternator should be used for this 53 F500?
Also need some kind of resistor for gages and that should do it?
True. My apologies for painting with a broad brush. This is a '50, but I believe this is the arrangement that HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618 has. Picture is for comparison purposes. If this is what his "green box" looks like, then this is what he has.
When converting from 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground, Is it OK to use an internally resisted 12 volt coil? Or should I use 12 volt coil with an external ballast resistor? I will have to change lights.
Should I use the 6 volt generator with an installed voltage regulator or just switch to alternator 10SI or 12SI, new brackets and belt? Does anyone know what alternator should be used for this 53 F500?
Also need some kind of resistor for gages and that should do it?
With the coil, as long as you have the correct total resistance it should be fine either way. I personally used an external resistor.
If you are going to 12 volt, the 6 volt generator wont be enough to charge the system. There are 12 V generators out there if you want to go that route instead. I went with a 100 amp one wire alternator. It gives me expand ability if I want to install accessories.
For the gauges you will need more than just a resistor. If you are good with electronics a 7806 will work fine. If not look for a 6 volt voltage regulator. Mac's and others have them.
When converting from 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground, Is it OK to use an internally resisted 12 volt coil? Or should I use 12 volt coil with an external ballast resistor? The best way to go IMHO is with an epoxy potted internal resistor coil like the Bosch. This is what I used. It's a few more bucks than the oil filled coils, but not prone to failure.
Should I use the 6 volt generator with an installed voltage regulator or just switch to alternator 10SI or 12SI, new brackets and belt? Does anyone know what alternator should be used for this 53 F500? There are several ways to go here. You can get a regular 12 volt negative ground generator that functions exactly like your existing generator, you can get a 12 volt negative ground alternator that looks just like a generator, neither of which requires any mounting modifications or special brackets, or you can go with the small frame Delco 10Si or the larger frame Delco 12Si. In both Delco cases you will need to get a smaller pulley so the alternator will spin up and give better output at idle. You will also need the special mounting bracket. Either one-wire or three-wire Delco's will work fine - the one-wire is the simplest installation (it's what I used).
Also need some kind of resistor for gages and that should do it? I used the epoxy potted regulator from DC. Works great. But there are other and cheaper ways to go.
Why do you want to change to 12 bolt? If you're not adding a lot of accessories a 6 volt system will work just fine if everything is as it should be.... New 00 gauge cables, clean rust and paint free contacts, a good genny, rebuilt if needed. Lots of us have stayed 6 volt and they work fine.
So, you said you're 6'4". Is your height more leg or torso, or both? If you're all leg, you may be able to raise the seat a bit by putting blocks under the seat mounts on the floor, which may not give you more leg room exactly, but could make the seating position more comfortable by not having your legs folded under your chin and allowing better leg movement to the pedals. You can go up until your legs are trapped between the steering wheel and seat, or your head hits the headliner, whichever comes first. There is a ton of headroom in these old trucks because old guys used to wear hats all the time.
Why do you want to change to 12 bolt? If you're not adding a lot of accessories a 6 volt system will work just fine if everything is as it should be.... New 00 gauge cables, clean rust and paint free contacts, a good genny, rebuilt if needed. Lots of us have stayed 6 volt and they work fine.
So, you said you're 6'4". Is your height more leg or torso, or both? If you're all leg, you may be able to raise the seat a bit by putting blocks under the seat mounts on the floor, which may not give you more leg room exactly, but could make the seating position more comfortable by not having your legs folded under your chin and allowing better leg movement to the pedals. You can go up until your legs are trapped between the steering wheel and seat, or your head hits the headliner, whichever comes first. There is a ton of headroom in these old trucks because old guys used to wear hats all the time.
For the 1953 model Ford spent $1 million dollars on what we now call ergonomics. They had a mannequin called the Measuring Man that was built to the average man's height and weight dimensions. That's why Ford called it the Million Dollar Cab. This was before the word ergonomics was used.
For the 1953 model Ford spent $1 million dollars on what we now call ergonomics. They had a mannequin called the Measuring Man that was built to the average man's height and weight dimensions. That's why Ford called it the Million Dollar Cab. This was before the word ergonomics was used.
Abe, I'm not really picking on you, honest, but the 'Million Dollar Cab' was the ad for the all new 1948 model...
Why do you want to change to 12 bolt? If you're not adding a lot of accessories a 6 volt system will work just fine if everything is as it should be.... New 00 gauge cables, clean rust and paint free contacts, a good genny, rebuilt if needed. Lots of us have stayed 6 volt and they work fine.
Abe, I get the feeling your a purist when it comes to these trucks
For the 1953 model Ford spent $1 million dollars on what we now call ergonomics. They had a mannequin called the Measuring Man that was built to the average man's height and weight dimensions. That's why Ford called it the Million Dollar Cab. This was before the word ergonomics was used.
Ergonomics based on a mans average height/weight. What was the average height/weight of a man in the 1950's? Probably no more than 5-8 150 lbs.
Try fitting in one of these trucks today if you're 6-0 or taller. Lotsa luck!
Pic: The Big Dummy standing adjacent to a 1941/48 Studebaker 1 ton M series truck. If you think the cabs are tight on 1948/52 Ford trucks, you've never sat in one of these!
Pic taken 9/12/2017 at the U-Drop-Inn, a Route 66 'Art Deco' landmark in Shamrock TX
06-19-2018, 07:26 AM
There is a ton of headroom in these old trucks because old guys used to wear hats all the time.
