Being that it looks cleaner at the bottom of the seal implies it may be leaking, oil flowing will rinse away junk that accumulates from stagnant oil. You're already this far in so might as well replace it unless you know it wasn't leaking.

 

Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it, got the up pipes done and cleaned everything a little just before doing the pipes. I'll check tomorrow night. Does the oil level come up that far?

 

Pretty sure it does not come up that high. You could put the flywheel back on and run it once the other stuff's done, pretty sure there's no need for the trans to be on to fire it up. Or over fill it and let it sit. You could measure from the bottom of the block to the dipstick handle and mark the dipstick to know how far up the level has to be to put the seal under oil. You could use any cheapo oil since it won't be run, but you'll have to discard it all before running.

 

I could try that, forgot to look at it tonight, I'll look at it next time I'm under there.

Got the turbo torn apart, going to bring the pedestal and butterfly to a neighbor that's a machinist and have him do the work to delete the ebpv.

It almost looks like someone took a flap disc to the compressor housing, is this normal? Could this be the result of dirt getting by the air filter? Are aFe cold air intakes any good? I haven't heard them having a bad reputation like K&N.


Got my new turbine shaft and wheel today from SP turboost, along with a 360 rebuild kit. Everything looks to be top notch quality, I can't wait to put em in the truck!

 

AFE makes some top notch stuff. You also have the option for either an oiled type filter or dry. I am sure that others may have the sam options, but the AFE Bladeruner is what I run without issue.

 

Good to know about AFE, it could have been from before the AFE was installed. Not quite sure what model it is, I'll have to take a picture.

 

You will love the billet wheel, spool time comes in early you will notice it right away.

 

I can't wait! Hopefully this week it'll be done...

 

So I have the up pipes done, but I am wondering if I should get new pipes, as they fell out of the y collector when I removed the assembly. They do tighten up with the new donuts, but for how long will they be sealed? Trans is still out, so it would be easy to change now. If not I will continue to re assemble.

 

Add at least new pipes and doughnuts if you dont want to spend on bellows, and have the new pipes expanded so they can fit snuggly in the new doughnuts. Or you can pioneer in using a late 99 pedestal and see if you can put late 99 bellows on there, with out the need to convert to a late 99 set up.

 

Would I be able to have these pipes expanded? They really don't look that bad in terms of material thickness, problem is, I can't find a set of affordable stock up pipes

 

While you could put the e99 turbo on the L99 pedestal, the e99 spider probably wouldn't line up for the boots to the intake plenum. And the L99 spider won't fit on the e99 compressor outlet.

 

Ill try amd test this this on Monday, to see if it can happen.

 

Well I was able to really crank down on the bolts, I don't think they'll leak for a while. I just need to buy some time till I can either afford RR pipes or just sell the truck, now that I have experienced the issues I probably won't buy an E99 again
I got the turbo in and the pipes tightened down real good, next I would like to install trans. Is there any certain way the TQ lines up to the crankshaft?
After I tightened the Y collector clamp I grabbed the turbo and shook it to make sure everything was solid, and the whole motor moved, like a lot. Is this normal? I'm guessing the trans takes that forward backward movement out so I'm not seriously worried, just thought it would be a bit more solid in there.

 

Bellows are over rated. Put new donuts and bolts in and be done with it. Most won't keep a truck long enough to see the new donuts give way anyway.