I would go with the Melling parts, they are both good quality. Also I looked up the rod bolt specs of Ford's site and it is 32 ft-lbs then 105 degrees.

 

Thank you, as always, I appreciate your advice. Ordered the parts....12 of each for the passenger side. .Now I'm wondering if I should replace the driver side lifters and Rockers? That's the side that was ticking before? Maybe I can swap them? Advice? Anyhow, during lunch today installed the new the oil pump, oil pickup tube, and exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tired now spending time with the wife. Thank you. Next, I guess is the intake manifold while I wait for the parts..

 

A few things about the intake... The knock sensor wires go between the metal linkage and the intake. Dont make the mistake and route them between the linkage and the firewall. Its a lot easier that way but causes the wires to rub on the linkage and eventually will rub through. The brake booster hose will be a PITA to attach to the port. It will help to attach that before bolting the intake down.

 

^^^^^ I concur with @70f100longbed 100%. ^^^^^ May I add my personal experience here for whatever it is worth. That PITA break booster 'rubber elbow' has a metal bracket that bolts to the back of bank 2 head (that I couldn't get unbolted). I read where one forum member was able to reach his arm underneath the IM to connect it before bolting IM down. I was not able to do this in spite of multiple tries. (of course 70+ years on my old joints don't help AT ALL). I finally had to connect a piece of new hose to the IM before installing it just kill the original vacuum line.

Another thought. I 'giggled' the IM around so much trying to get the booster hose and wires on/routed - I "ALMOST" ruined the wires on top of the Bank1 CHT to the point I had to patch/repair them. You can Use a piece of 1x2 board or something similar under passenger side of IM to hold it up off the CHT sensor until you are ready to bolt her down.

 

Hi 70f et al, can I get some pro advice this morning. I am putting the intake manifold back on and have some questions about the wiring. 70f, I am not clear on what you are saying. Please look at the picture below: The blue arrows are the knock sensor wires and "I believe" the metal rod you are talking about. The knock sensor wires where over the top of this rod when I removed it. Also the red arrow is where the harness bolted to the intake. This harness was above the IR. What did you mean but not against the firewall?

 

So you didn't have to disconnect the sensors to pull the intake? The wires are supposed to go over the linkage. If they were under then the intake has been off before and was put back together wrong. The harness sits on top of the imrc actuator and the knock sensors route over the linkage to avoid rubbing. It's harder to put them back that way but it keeps them from rubbing. I also see the updated brake booster hose with the clamps so that recall has been done.

 

No, I did have to disconnect the knock sensors to remove the intake, I just put all the wiring back to see where it goes. But I have another question which is really important I have six injectors from a 2007 V6 FWD Ford escape that a mechanic friend of mine said were compatible with the ones in the F150. I am just not sure, they are the same part number but look a little different, They fit fine and are both two hole injectors. Are these compatible and is one simply an upgrade?

 

I just did some research on rockauto and the injectors for the Escape are CM5183, the F150 uses CM5138. They also cross to different Ford part numbers. But, if the numbers on the injectors are the same then they will work. I'm not sure if they are the same I have always just used what the parts guy gave me. I would think the 5.4 injectors flow more than the Escape but again, I'm not sure.

 

Hi Thank you, I am ready to put the Lifters, Rocker Arms and Overhead cams back in. I noticed the new lifters are much harder to pump then the old ones and I am only replacing one side is this not good? Any advice for the next step would be greatly appreciated.

 

I wouldnt worry about it. New vs old parts.

 

OK great, how can tell the difference between the left and right overhead cams? The cam caps are in order but I an not SURE of the cams.

 

The driver side cam is a little bit shorter than the passenger side.

 

I can't tell how much I appreciate this site and especially your knowledge and support.

 

Just a few question for you 70f100longbed before I begin tonight:
1.Should I install the new phasers before while the upper cam shafts are out or installed?
2. Is it recommend or easier to re-install the oil pan while the timing covers are off?

Thank you

 

1. Doesn't really matter but it will be easier to hold the cam if it's mounted in the cylinder head. Also now is the time to start thinking about piston to valve contact because once you install the cams there are going to be some open valves. Turn the crankshaft so the keyway is at 11 o'clock that will set number 1 close to TDC but far enough to avoid any contact. When you install the cams make sure you have the L timing mark up on the driver's side and the R mark up on the passenger side. That will make sure you don't have to move the cams much to get it in time.

2. Don't bother with the pan until the timing cover is back on