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05 F-150, 5.4 Lariat Bent Rod #1 cylinder.

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05 F-150, 5.4 Lariat Bent Rod #1 cylinder.

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  #46  
Old 06-26-2018, 08:55 AM
gamboni
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Wow! I wrote that? Sorry, Just blowing off a little steam. It was very hot yesterday, sweat was pouring into my eyes and my hands look like I washed them with sand paper....... and maybe a little too much beer in the heat I'll get that bolt out today.
 
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  #47  
Old 06-27-2018, 08:54 AM
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Good morning 70f100longbed:
Would you please take a look at my parts list? I am going to order the parts from Rock-auto today. Do you recommend I get the bestůvery pricing or middle of the road? I need the following off the top of my head: Do you think these parts are good quality?

Head Gasket: Fel-Pro, 26307PT, Right $31.89
Oil Pump:-suggest Melling M340, $89.79 no pick up tube
Alternate Melling M340V340S, $161.79 with pick up tube recommended for high mileage
Oil Pan Gasket: MAHLE OS32517, $18.24 Molded rubber
Intake manifold set: MAHLE, MIS19263 molded rubber, $71.79Master set includes all Miscellaneous gaskets and seals
Timing Kit: EngineTech TS391SB, $97.79- Included tensioner guides and chain, no cam sprockets
Phasers: Standard Motor products, VVT500, $114.79
Valve cover Gaskets: APEX AVC1130S, $38.79 comes with grommets
 
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  #48  
Old 06-27-2018, 09:47 AM
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You need a set of head bolts and the rod bolts. They are torque to yield and shouldnt be reused. Also I dont see timing cover gaskets. The timing set looks ok but I would try to find some reviews first. If budget allows I would recommend OEM phasers. Everything else looks good.
 
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  #49  
Old 06-30-2018, 03:46 PM
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All my stuff came in today from Rock-Auto. Yard work today, Preparing for my daughters college graduation party on Wednesday. Sooooo. very hot I can't work on the truck anyways. Please stay with me 70f., Your advice and guidance is so necessary and i REALLY need and APPRECIATE IT will be back to it tomorrow.
 
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  #50  
Old 07-01-2018, 03:05 PM
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Don't worry, I'm not going anywhere
 
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  #51  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:15 PM
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When the German rocket scientists and engineers were brought over here after WWII, one of the engineers bought a beat-up old car and rebuilt it himself. This is in the book 'The Right Stuff'. Anyway, back then it was possible to do these things and I guess its still possible, but a whole lot less likely. Your F-150 is a lot more complex than a '39 Buick. However, I still commend you for trying, and I hope you get it running.
 
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  #52  
Old 07-06-2018, 08:23 AM
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Thank you 1saxman, it is a pretty good challenge but also a little fun and certainly interesting. I hope it all works when I am done. I have a few questions for 70f100longbed or any Guru now that I have the head off. Please see the pictures below:

1. Cylinder 4 was filled with coolant. Is this from removing the head? The head gasket does not look blown.
2. Should I go ahead and pull the head on the left side since I am in so deep?
3. What chemical do you recommend for cleaning the head?
4. What is the best way ( in my case) to re-insert cylinder #4 back in the head?
5. When I replace the head should I use any sealant to hold the gasket in place

Any other advice now that I am finally in reverse is VERY much appreciated. Thank you!


 
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  #53  
Old 07-06-2018, 08:42 AM
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Congratulations. Heavy sumbitch huh?
1. Yes the coolant entered the cylinders when the head was loosened. It has also filled the headbolt holes in the block and needs to be cleaned out.
2. Completely up to you but you will need another gasket and head bolts. I would at least pull the left side cam and check all of the roller followers.
3. I use brake cleaner and single edge razor blades. Held at just the right angle they do a great job of removing old gasket material and carbon deposits. Just be careful not to gouge the aluminum.
4. You will need a piston ring compressor to compress the rings enough to install the piston back in th cylinder. Make sure you dont mix anything up there is a dot on the piston that points towards the front IIRC.
5. The only sealant needed is a small dab at the block/head/timing cover joint, the rest of the gasket goes on dry and the head and block must be dry and clean.

Make sure you dont mix up any of the camshaft caps, they need to go on exactly as they were removed. The lifters dont really matter if they go back in the same hole. I try to put the roller followers back in the same place but it wont hurt anything if you mix a few up. To check the rollers you try to move the roller up and down in relation to the follower to chec for any wear in the bearing. If there is any play it needs to be replaced. Your cam journals look great btw no scratches.
 
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  #54  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:13 AM
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Thank you so much for the info and Yup it was a "sumbitch" especially with the Exhaust manifold attached. I fell backward inside the truck engine cavity and hit my ribs on the bottom hood latch. Pointy little thing got me good so I am on heavy Ibuprofen. OK Camshaft caps are all in a line exactly as they came out along with the roller-followers.....so no problem here. Tonight I am going to take my time and put the head back on. Tomorrow I have to help a friend move
Please allow me to get terminology right.:

The roller follower is what call the overhead cam same thing right?
The rollers are underneath the roller-follower "overhead cam"
The lifters are in the head

Don't I have to reassemble the to test all this? Should I replace the phaser while the Roller follower are out.?
 
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  #55  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:42 AM
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The roller followers are under the cam and open the valves. You can also call them rocker arms. The roller is part of the follower and is the part that actually rides on the cam lobes. They are bad for the bearing wearing out causing the roller to seize and drag on the cam. This will lead to the lobe wearing out and eventually it will cause the follower to pop off and can make the valve hit the piston. All you need to test is feel for any play in the roller's bearing. If budget allows it would be a good idea to replace the phasers.
 
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  #56  
Old 07-06-2018, 05:39 PM
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Gotcha Thank you, Raining too much for me to work tonight. Please take a look at these pictures. I have some questions:
Look how shy the number cylinder is from the top of the block due to the bent rod. Wow almost an inch! should I clean the carbon off the cylinder heads? The number 4 cylinder is now at the top ( as close as possible see second picture) Like you said earlier should I put a piece of wood on the rod and tap the cylinder out.


 
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  #57  
Old 07-06-2018, 06:05 PM
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Never mind Thank you, I got it out. Talk about a bent rod. So very glad my other rod dose't look like this.

 
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  #58  
Old 07-06-2018, 07:07 PM
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A little worried. I have replaced the cylinder rod with the new one and reused the same bearing but they do not close tightly. Is there something I am missing?


 
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  #59  
Old 07-07-2018, 10:01 AM
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Holy bent rod batman! Wow that thing is tweaked. It looks like the bearing isn't fully seated in the cap. Make absolutely sure there is nothing between the bearing and the rod.
 
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  #60  
Old 07-07-2018, 06:06 PM
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I know, no SH#T!, You can see on the back of the rod where it was hitting the bottom of the block. It sounded like Bigfoot was beating on my front door!
 
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