Agreed that's a significant increase wet which indicates the rings aren't sealing as well as they should. It's not a timing problem. How does it run? You said it has a rough idle when warm but does it run good otherwise? Is the check engine light on? How did the rings look on the piston you pulled out? Carbon can build up in the grooves and cause the rings to stick. Maybe try some engine flush cleaner or transmission fluid in the oil for a few hundred miles and see if that helps. It may be something you have to live with.

 

@70f Well, its cylinder 5 not cylinder 1, the one I worked on. so I never have seen the rings. It runs off and on OK. usually starts OK but ruff idel especially after warm up. At light sometimes I am concerned it will quit. the shaking is enough to be uncomfortable.

 

Well #5 compression reading says you didn't totally FUBAR the rod replacement! LOL. I commend you highly for that accomplishment.

But you should not have to endure rough idle that concerns you it might 'quit' (to quote you). I NOTE: You have mentioned the rough 'after warm up' a couple of times. That was the reason I wanted the dealership to do the balance test 'stone cold' (after EVAPSOAK bocmes true), -- then -- again after warmup where engine oil temperature gets up to within about 5 degrees of ECT (full operating temp). The symptoms have many of the markings of a phaser that cannot hold the cam at 'base' zero retard after the engine warms up ------ OR ------ timing chain off a tooth. (The latter is a huge deal.) The earlier -- ?? IDK. That could be debris in oil passageways, or phaser chambers, or a defective / bad phaser. (I've lost track, you poor fellow, didn't you replace phasers?)

I am not fully on board with @70F150longbed that it is not a timing problem. Especially if we have consistent lower compression on bank 2.

Please post a table of compression readings you obtained - per cylinder / wet and dry.

 

 

At my young age of 72, I understand 'battery life'. I'm not the EveryReady Bunny any more!

 

Ha! good one 70f, We all feel it after 50.
Let me throw you a few ideas at you. The last thing I want is the drivers side timing to be off by a tooth but to be honest it seems like it's leaning that way. There are a few things I recall when performing the work that "could" also be the cause. Let me know what you think:

Cam caps too tight or over torqued?
Chain guide upside down ( remember they were not OEM) and we could not find the orientation "nipple"
New phaser not doing it's job

In all cases I have to tear into the passenger side how can I limit my effort to get it right this one last time when I tear into it. Imagine the timing is not off when I tear into it could it be one of the above? Should I replace all of the above as I go "just to be sure"

 

My friend, my keyboard fails me in expressing how I badly I feel for you after all you have been through. Especially given your willingness to seek and accept good and proper advice. But I am leaning that way also ( with full awareness @70F100longbed may differ.) I anxiously await his opinions.



Cam caps. Without P0022 - I believe cam caps are not the culprit. Reasoning: It is certainly true cam bearing / roller follower 'drag' can cause a phaser to have difficulty in 'ADVANCING' the cam back to 'base' timing (Zero Retard). BUT: P0022 will pop if timing is over retarded more than 5 degrees for more than 5 seconds (per Motorcraft OBDII Theory Manual). It seems unlikely excessive drag could cause slight over retard with that precision, and never exceed DTC trigger point. THIS is of course assuming the slight compression deficiency is the cause of rough idle due to slightly reduced power produced from bank 2 cylinders. Clearly THAT will cause rough idle - and random misfires on that bank ------> not because they are true misfires, but because the lighter combustion fails to move crankshaft along above PCM's misfire threshold. See NOTE 1 below:


Chain Guide upside down. - ??? IDK. Clearly - tensioner arm pushing chain slack all in one direction can (and WILL) change crank/cam timing relationship. This is one reason that broken guides and chain wear ultimately results in P0012 or P0022. So I 'could see' that a incorrect guide somewhere could have some impact. BUT: As you said, in any case it has to be opened up to determine. See NOTE 1 below:


New phaser not doing its job. - I believe this could be an unfortunate possibility. ie: Even if the new phaser was not defective - a small piece of trash/debris getting into a passageway downstream of the VCT solenoid screen and/or the Valve Body could have reached the Phaser. If lodged in an Advance chamber- it would prevent it from moving fully to advance / base position. A small piece of something (from dirty greasy hands) could even get into the hollow Phaser Bolt - and you're screwed. OR, you could have just gotten a bad one. A phaser retarded very FEW degrees while the other bank is not would result in unbalanced power noticable at idle. Less than 5 degrees would not produce a code. See NOTE 1 below:


NOTE 1: The only way I know of to 'prove' the theory before tearing in would require readings from specialized diagnostic equipment. A dual trace scope monitoring both CPS together could show if phaser fingers on both banks were passing the CPS at the same time - and perhaps number of degrees one might be delayed.

I know I sound like a broken record --- but I will BUY the Torque Pro app for you if you have (or can get hands on) an android device and Bluetooth dongle to run it. The CAM MONITOR screen suggested in an earlier post displays the % duty cycle to VCT1 and VCT2. If one cam is experiencing excessive drag, it would require a higher percent duty cycle for the PCM to retard / advance that cam. The CAM ERROR accumulator should tell if one cam is always slightly retarded. If the slightly retarded indication was STEADY - SOLID, it would indicate she's got to be opened up. If it was irregular (when PCM is NOT commanding retard) - I would think it could potentially be a leaky or leaking VCT solenoid on bank 2. JUST a thought.

 

OK torqued, I think a laptop will run an android app. If not, I can get my hands on an android phone or device. So where do I go for the bluetooth dongle?

 

Well - several places. I was a cheapskate when I originally got Torque Pro and ordered mine from EBay against the recommendations to avoid those Cheap Chinese adapters. But I still use my 'HH OBD' dongle and have done everything I have done/posted on here with it.

Same one is available from Amazon for 10 bucks.
It may not be the fastest in the world (mine reads about 14 - 16 PIDs per second). Has been completely adequate --- except for power balance test and it will not keep up with the 'firing order' PID.

Some rave about the Scantool OBDLink LX (49 bucks) and the Scantool MX (79 bucks) - but I have no experience with either.

Have never tried to run Android simulator on a Laptop - but used cheap phones or Pads can be found on Craigslist and/or Ebay. Does not need to be working phone as long as it has Bluetooth and WIFI to download the app.

 

OK, first so I can put my truck plugs back in and get ready driving to work tomorrow, what else does anyone want to see????
@Redfish
@70f100longbed
@F150Torqued
In any event, I will buy the one you recommend to get all the data we need . I think it is interesting to troubleshhot before we dig in, for no other reason to simply see if we were right. It's allways rewarding.

 

Did you compression test #1.. If so, I would like to see the whole table of wet/dry compression readings obtained in the end.

 

 

Watch these videos and look at the pictures you took and compare them. Just another step to ensure you put everything back correctly. From what I am seeing is the passenger side bank with the higher compression is the correct readings, so whatever is wrong is on the drivers side. If the cam is being held open just a tad because of timing issues, that could bring the compression down across all four cylinders.

You may have to break down and go back in before the big freeze hits for the rest of the winter.

 

Hi Thank you all, @F150Torqued , no the only cyclinder I did not do is #1,....I dont like the #1 cylinder anymore! Anyhow, I need to redue the #8 cyclinder wet test and wet test cylinder 4,3,and2. If I get to number 1 OK great but I am convinced we have a problem on the drivers side bank and further analysis with the suggested tool will probably confirm. BTW, what will the #1 cyclinder test tell us that we already don't know? @yardbird , thanks for the link I did foloow Makuloco all during the timing phase. He has good stuff, that why we are all reluctant to say I am a tooth off.....but it seriously seems so.

 

One other thing I just read on this forum. One guy was having running problems that he changed crank and cam sensors, plus a throttle body trying to fix. The problem turned out to be a weak battery.