Hi everyone, @ torqued I looked up CHT (Cylinder Head temputature) Please tell where it is and what you see as mangled. Thank you. While the intake is off and before I put it togethor should I rotate the crank and what the valve springs to see if there is a problem with the roller followers? Is this a good idea or is there something else that would tell me?

 

That white plug in your "Passenger Side Block - Intake Lifted" photo. I blew it up and can't tell positively. the very top (blurred) but looks like wires are pressed down. The manifold will rest ON it when moving it around trying to get it into position. On mine, I had the wires 'frayed' and top of plastic broken from wiggling the manifold around trying to get brake booster vacuum line and IMRC wires connected. Just mentioning it as a precaution there.

Also, I don't want to cause panic or additional work. It is just that - a possibility, with that washer in that intake. IF the engine ran with it in there, and IF it got caught under the valve seat when the valve was closing... That would keep the valve from closing all the way. The valve spring would NOT be keeping tension against the roller/follower (which is held in place, against the cam, only by the tension between valve spring and lash adjuster). I can 'perceive' those conditions causing that roller/follower falling OUT. This is NOT unheard of. I think @redfishtd found one laying aside when he removed his Valve Covers.

Since there are TWO intake valves, the engine will continue to run with one intake valve NOT functioning Although it would run rough / idle poorly - which you reported. But nevertheless it will run.

You haven't removed valve covers - and wouldn't have to verify the above scenario did not occur. You can see down the intake and verify THAT valve opens when rotating the engine past power stroke on that cylinder. If the roller follower is out of place - that valve / valve stem would not move at all. That's all I am saying. Just another precautionary test / verification sort of thing before going back together.

 

I appreciate it torqued, thank you very much. Can I simply disconnect the camshaft position sernsor and have my wife crank it while I look down in the manifold. This way she can help me and I can get this done. All I need to see is the lifter rods go up and down and all should be good. Do you agree?

 

Yes I lost no 8 intake roller, the roller wheel center was damaged but it missed cam . It made a real racket --nasty sound . Sounds like a good plan to test roller . I think I would put a little paint mark on valve shaft to make it more visible . I see are going to pull crankshaft sensor to stop it from starting , since you may have fan assembly on it may be difficult to turn crank bolt by hand . I guess you will be pressurizing fuel rail/don't like this .Is coolant going to go everywhere or is it drained . ? Make sure both valve shafts move .
I really would do mine manually with crank bolt , I'm just chicken .

 

Just put the wife underneath the front end with a 1/2" drive ratchet with socket on the front pulley and stand on her to reach over the radiator. $($*@*(*!*&!^)#&@ (((Gosh mam, just kidding!!)).

I think I would make every effort to do it by hand. But isn't the fuel rail disconnected in that "Drivers side wiring harness" photo? Lot to think about hitting the starter. Would be easier to unplug all COPs and Injectors than the crank sensor. I'm not immediately sure how I would insure fuel pump is disabled.

You only have to turn it over two full revolutions. ---- and I like @redfish's suggestion of marking the valve stems if you can to help note their movement. ANY movement means nothing is mechanically amiss.

 

Apply power to the starter trigger wire mentioned in post 224 to crank the engine. No need to disconnect anything and will only take seconds. Thankfully we survived the storm intact just hate it for all the people in Lumberton/ Fayettville areas the Cape Fear river is expected to crest over 30 ft above flood stage and higher than Hurricane Matthew did last year.

 

@ torqued, ha ha you are cold dude and yes the fuel rail is disconnected. @ 70f the flooding is horrible for NC, glad to hear you didn't get flooded. The red wire you speak about in the starter harness is embedded in shrink tube. does the red wire need be cut ?

 

Its the small yellow trigger wire. There is a single wire connector that you can disconnect and apply power to the male pin to crank the engine

 

@70F, I am sorry 2B so ignorant but look a the pic below what wire are you are talking about?

 

@redfish, good find , yes you are absolutley right, the block temp sensor is getting cobbled......zoom in. How did you fix this?

 

I think f150t was your man . He has eyes like a hawk . I have not had my intake off yet . Thanks for all the great pictures of it it may help a lot of people .. That routing of wires is not intuitive. I need a plan when I get involved with one . I know f150t says he used a board to protect cht wires and he had to fix his . . He is your man to talk to .. Good luck, I am happy to know about the starter trigger wire thats near the battery cable . Good place for troubleshooting . I'm very pessimistic in my approach to everything ,my job required it ,so I'm always hold up lets rethink this .

 

I'm not proud of it but mine was mangled much worse than that by the time I realized it. Some copper strands were severed. I used a little solder - and finished with a generous dose of silicon seal with the wires lying at 90º to the plug in their natural 'smashed' orientation!!! (Red neck repair - but still working today!).

THANKS @70f100longbed. I'm learning from the best too, right along with @gamboni. The wire that engages the starter directly (without using Key On) is the way to go. No worry about COPS, Fuel pump, Injectors or anything other than keeping the fingers clear of belt and pulleys.

 

The connector circled in the picture provided in the previous post, is the aforementioned jump starter connector being referred to by other posters. Simply disconnect the two halves and jump the male end of the connector to your battery positive post to engage the starter as mentioned above.

 

Thanks @m-chan68 for a concise and useful pointer. And for any curious ones (like me) - or rethinkers (like @redfishtd) who wants to understand the electrical effect of what they are doing ...

 

No not that one!!! That feeds the alternator field. Here is the correct connector