I see everyone using red synthetic grease and feel I'm in the minority using a white lithium grease in all my trailer axles. I use Echo lithium grease (manufactured by hydrotex) in all my commercial mower blade spindles. I feel if this grease can handle 18000+ rpm in a mower blade application it can handle any trailer axle bearing. I always have this in my Lincoln pneumatic grease gun and use an easy pack device for my trailer bearings. I've only had one trailer bearing failure in over 22 years of operation and that was my fault. I didn't lube the bearings in over 20,000 miles and the bearing froze to the spindle due to lack of grease in the bearing.

 

I use that same packer. Much easier to do and to watch the grease work all the way through the bearing and push the old grease out. If what you're doing works, I see no reason you should change.

 

They make a Marine Grease for use in boat trailer bearings. It's not that much more expensive than regular wheel bearing grease, so I figure "Why Not?"

Here's a good overview, for those that are interested:

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-grease.aspx

 

A question related to wheel bearing grease...

As I stated in my first post in this thread ( Post 10 ) I have a dedicated grease gun for my trailer's wheel bearings. I pulled that grease gun out of my toolbox recently after sitting there for a year. The drawer was full of oil that had leaked out of the grease gun. Is that normal? The toolbox is in my garage and doesn't see high heat, nothing over say 85 degrees.

 

Normal for me for sure. Can't explain it, but you will find it noted on other sites on the Internet. However, if I have pulled the bearing after a year's worth of travel and the grease looks just fine. No meltdown at all.

 

I agree but I was hoping someone would chime in to why a red synthetic grease might be better for wheel bearings. Only reason I use the white lithium grease is because the mechanic at the mower shop said he uses it on his boat trailer bearings and I can buy it from them by the case. I'm coming up on the service mileage for the front 4x4 hubs on my truck and contemplating if I should use something other than the the grease I have on hand.

I would say most likely its normal. I had an old hand pump gun that would leak hanging upright on the wall. Ever since I switched to a no more leaks.

 

 

In my opinion, often you will find that is a certain "follow-the-crowd" effect which I do no think is such a bad thing. Someone finds something works and then it catches on as others try it and the alternative choices become less common. That does not always mean the alternatives are bad. I see this all the time with RV stuff where someone says something is better than something else and I have said this several times in the towing forums. We all have opinions, but since there are no comparative studies, we very seldom can back them up with solid data. I use red because it is easy to find and has always worked for me, but I suspect there are dozens of other choices that work just as well. Some people swear by hand packing bearings and that was originally the way I was taught to do it. Then I bought a packer I could attach to my grease gun. Now I can watch the new grease push out the old and see how it is distributed through the rollers. I find it to be easier and less messy. Just a different choice.

 

.why oil leaks out of grease.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28761/storing-grease-to-avoid-bleed-separation-

google and the internet is useful

 

Very good, thanks for the honest answers.

 

To me, choosing grease is like choosing motor oil. Make sure to have the right specs (GC - LB for bearings/chassis,) and do not switch from brand to brand unless you're going to thoroughly clean the bearings to prevent grease interactions.

 

I know of a company in the US that actually makes grease. They make many different formulas. One formula in particular is dyed 3 different colors for marketing purposes and sold as 3 different applications even though it is the same. Marine wheel bearing grease, Automotive wheel bearing grease, and something else. Reason I was told is boat people will only buy Marine wheel bearing grease for the boat trailers and the automotive people wont use marine grease for automotive wheel bearings.

 

Chuck, thanks for the link to that article.

Here's what I found important in the article:
I followed everything except the depressurization of the grease gun. I'll have to look at my gun to see if it can do that. However, I question how effective that will be.

The Valvoline grease I use is about $6.50 per tube. At that price, I might just pull the tube from the grease gun after I finish with all the zerks I can find, and throw the tube away. That way I don't have to clean up a mess. It sucks to waste 80% of a tube of grease. I supposed I could use those smaller grease guns but I like the big handle.

 

You'd be amazed at the number of people who pass on a Dunlop MC tire that doesn't say Harley Davidson on it, just to buy the same model with the name for $30 more.
My friend makes an extra $20 off of them, several times a week, after the price difference in ordering them.

Griz

 

That is the TRUTH...
the V-Rod and my Honda takes the same Rear tire.. both are ONLY sold by supporting ( Harley / Honda ) dealers.. so Full price... "251" type.
but you can get an Dunlop Elite 3 one size larger.. and 60 dollars less. and its a better and newer design.

stock = 180/55R18... Elite 3.. 200/50R18....