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"There is a lot of confusion about gear oils and the API classifications. In this paper I will try to differentiate the two oils and clear up the mysteries that are flying all over the internet. It is extremely common, or normal, for all GL-5 oils to claim they cover the API GL-4 requirements for gear oils. This is a true statement. Does that make them satisfactory for synchromesh or synchronized transmissions? NO! They meet the GEAR OIL specifications, not transmission oil specifications. The API GL-4 and GL-5 categories do not mention or have anything to do with transmission synchronizers.
History: The gear oils of a few decades ago had lead additives that were effective at wear reduction, but not very good for the environment. A long time ago they began to be replaced by gear oils with a phosphorous additive (in itself a decent anti-wear additive) with active sulfur to grip hold of the gears and create a very solid sacrificial layer of material that could be worn off, thereby protecting the gear surface. Eventually it was discovered that the active sulfur was causing corrosion of brass and other soft metals used in differentials and transmissions.
Somewhere around 25 years ago a deactivated or buffered sulfur was developed that would react with the phosphorous to create the protective/sacrificial layer in the conditions created in the gear boxes (temperature and pressure) without being corrosive to the brass, copper, etc. This additive system is used in most gear oils today. The problems arise when we try or need to use the same product in the transmission that we use in the differential.
Many people have called oil companies and been told by the “Techs” that answer their questions that their oils have buffered sulfur and therefore are not corrosive to yellow metals, so their GL-5 oils can be used with brass components. While that answer is totally correct, it does not address the question asked: Can I use your GL-5 in my synchromesh transmission? …
In normal operation, the sulfur/phosphorous additive forms a black sacrificial coating on the gears and anything it touches with a little pressure and temperature. As the gears turn, instead of wearing, the sacrificial coating of additives is peeled off or worn off. This is normal and acceptable in all steel gears. But when one or more of the surfaces is brass or another soft metal, the sacrificial coating is stronger than the base metal, and instead of just peeling off, it takes with it a few microns of the brass that it is bound to. …
A traditional GL-4 gear oil of any given viscosity has about ½ of the level of sulfur/phosphorous additive that would be in the GL-5 product, so the bond is not as strong, and therefore can be peeled off without peeling a layer of brass (or less brass). This means the GL-4 product provides a little less extreme pressure protection, so would not be ideal in the differential of a high-powered car. To understand this need we should be aware of the fact that the differential is where the final torque is applied to the wheels (in most applications).
But in the transmission, we should consider two factors:
• Due to the fact that the differential applies the final torque, normally we do not need the full EP protection in the transmission where less torque (about 30%) is applied.
• We need to be able to break the EP protection to stop the spinning of the gears long enough to mesh them or synchronize them.
When we use a GL-5 product in a transmission that requires GL-4, we normally find 2 to 4 times as much copper in the used oil when compared to a required GL-4 product (with used oil analysis). Eventually the synchronizers wear to the point that they no longer make contact with the other half of the cone, bottoming out before stopping the opposing gear.
Modern highly machined components require thinner oils and cannot tolerate sulfur/phosphorous additives in the oil, but rather depend upon friction modifiers, magnesium or calcium sulfonate, and often synthetic base oil which provide GL-4 or better performance.
Even though these additive packages provide better EP (Extreme Pressure) protection than a GL-4 sulfur/phosphorous oil, … most new formulations are way too thin for most classic cars
Although a modern GL-4 or a GL-5 Oil has buffers to reduce or eliminate corrosion of copper and yellow metals, they still may have so much binding power they do not allow the peeling off of the sacrificial layer alone. Therefore some GL-5 Oils are not recommended for transmissions where lower EP GL-4 Oils provide ample protection for reduced torque.
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NOTE: Would the following statement be the reason these newer oils are too thin for classic cars?
>>>>most new formulations are way too thin for most classic cars which generally have greater tolerances, that is, more space, where a thicker oil and sacrificial layer needs to fill the gaps. <<<
12/15/2018
Crank up and Run Truck
Let Idle, accelerate a few times runs great no issues
Cut off Truck let sit for 30min? Started right up
Let Idle again
Cut off Truck let sit for 15 min Started right up
>>>>Above I was checking to see if I still had hot starting problems but will have to wait for summer to really find this out.<<<<
01/31/201 1 1/2 months since last starting up truck. (12/15 -boy does time fly by these days)
Checked Water and Oil both ok could stick finger in radiator and dip in top of water.
Choked and pumped pedal quite a bit then she started up after some cranking , but the good news is that it cranks without having to pour gas into the carb.
Wanted to run all the old gas out, so let it run a few minutes and the gas pump started pumping bubbles then nothing, turned truck off and added about 1 gallon of gas into tank from the plastic can with the starbrite additive in it.
Truck cranked back up fine.
Let the truck run 3:20 to 3:50 about 30 minutes
02/01/2019
Checked Water and Oil. Oil showing 1 quart low??? Don't know why this is Yet??
ADDED 1 Quart of LUCAS OIL Stabilizer
Crank Truck with choke only and run out for 10-15 min ran out of gas.
Then put another gallon of gas in.
Cranked truck back up and ran for another 15 min approx.
Ran ok, Raced engine a few times sounded great.
Well I was all set to buy one of these new Milwaukee 1/2 Impact wrenches until my dentist gave me three options on fixing a broken tooth.
1. $1250.00 Root Canal , Post & Crown.
2. $1550 Have a Bridge running from the teeth beside it.
3. $2000 Have an Implant.
Waiting for an appointment with the Oral surgeon as to whether I can afford an immediate Implant, that is the day they pull the old tooth they insert/screw the implant into my jaw. This is opposed to pulling the tooth waiting 6-8 weeks for it to heal and grow new bone, Then have my Jaw bone drilled out and the implant screwed into the bone.
No dental insurance, except maybe selling one of my old Fords. Wow, have to work out some kind of eatem' rice and beans budget.
Started the '69 yesterday 2/15/2019 Started up by just pulling the choke and pumping the gas a dozen times fast. About 10 seconds, didn't really count.
Let her idle for about an hour while I cleaned up the yard and blew off the roof. Noticed the Temp gauge was sitting around the 160 degree mark with the outside temperature in the low 70's , Figured that was pretty good except I have heard that when an Engine is not running .. say 185 degrees then your causing more wear and tear and possible other degrading issues on the engine. I'm not sure what T-Stat is in it, if any, I might have just knocked the hole out of one it's been so long. Did buy a new T-Stat to go in her, but have managed to put that on the back-burner, so far.
I’m not sure which T-stat to run in the FE’s. I’m aware they have thin cylinder walls and can get warm easily. Is it better to run a 160° to keep it cool or something like a 212° in hopes the radiator won’t allow it to exceed that?
It depends on the climate and temperature your in. You want the engine to stay say between 180-190 degrees so if you live in a cold climate you may need a real high T-stat temp. Since I am in Hot and Humid Florida I evidently have a 160 or perhaps a hollowed out T-stat. Since the temperature in the summer here can run upwards of 90-95 degrees and the humidity making it killer miserable., I have always looked for ways to keep my engine cooler especially if sitting in traffic.
Earlier in this thread I mention and give pics of a Fan Blade with a Clutch that I plan to install on my 69 when I get a chance.... I'll also change the waterpump at the same time... so unless I have some great energetic spurt or absolute need this will be put on the back burner,
I still have to drain and replace the differential oil.... guess I will pull the rear wheels and do a close inspection of the seals. Then check out the brakes and hardware for rust, Might install new brake lines to the rear, I think I replaced the front ones 10 years ago and they still look good. I might flip for a new set of Stainless steel brake lines from "Inline Tube" $185.00 .. I used there tranny lines and they fit like a glove.
My old truck has been sitting for about 15 years or so, and I have been wanting to resurrect it. The last time I used it on a regular basis, sitting in traffic on a hot summer day was when I would see me temp gauge start climbing. Our summers here In SoCal can get up there with heat. Not as humid as Florida, but high 90’s to 110° is pretty common. Our winters are pretty mild as well. It might kiss freezing in the early mornings, and a dusting of snow once every 15 years. Extreme cold is a rare event.
I think once once I get her running, I will invest in a fan shroud, but I’m debating on the clutch. A good flex fan might be just fine.
HERE IS SOME GREAT INFO on the Importance of a Fan Shroud, as the article states, without a shroud your fan is hardly pulling any air thru the Radiator. Exactly why your overheating.
>>>>>>UPDATE Home Depot shipped the Item but Fed EX lost the item in transit so Home Depot cancelled my Order, I decided to look back on Ebay to see if prices dropped any and here is a copy of My New Order... basically no tax and free shipping saved $40.00
Last edited by Kurttb1; 02-27-2019 at 07:38 AM.
Reason: ADDING INFO AND PIC of new order
01-27-2019, 12:49 AM
