1985 f150 5.8 H.O carburetor rebuild - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1985 f150 5.8 H.O carburetor rebuild

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  #46  
Old 06-12-2018, 06:09 PM
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That one looks to be the front jet plate or block.
It is also upside down, the gold things go at the bottom and that white thing at the top.

The 2 gold things with the slots across the center and the holes in the center, there are the jets and should have numbers stamped on this end with the size.

That round thing just below the jets is the back side of the power valve. If you were to turn the block around you would see the power valve. It should un-screw from the block. It also has numbers stamped on it for the HG it opens at, most in rebuild kits are 6.5 There are also 2 different types that take a different gasket between them so watch what one is removed both the valve & gasket.

See that white thing at the bottom, that is a bowl vent whistle. It is used on carbs used mostly for drag racing. With out the whistle on hard take off the fuel in the bowl move to the rear. This is good for the front jets but not the bowl vent as fuel goes up the slot out the vent tube and down into the carb throat flooding the motor. With the whistle the vent opening is now at the front of the bowl and no more flooding.

Now remember the fuel moving to the back? It does the same thing in the rear bowl. The vent is not an issue with the rear so no whistle is needed but the jets at the bottom front of the bowl is an issue as they now become un-covered. They make tube you slip on the jets that extend to the rear so they are in fuel all the time.
With jet extensions you need to change the float that has notches for the extensions or the float never drops to add fuel to the bowl.

The rear set up and have a plate / block just like pictured or just a plate. Just the plate you can not change jets as it has none, it is done thru the size holes & ports in the plate and why it is not used for racing.
I don't think, been a wile since I been inside a Holley carb, the rear dose not have a power valve.
Some of the blocks that have jets may or may not have idle mixture screws. If the rear block has mixing screws like the front it is called 4 corner idle mixture adjusting.

The picture also shows the good blue gaskets.

Now that you are confused even more lesson is over LOL
Dave ----
 
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  #47  
Old 06-12-2018, 07:34 PM
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hehe, thanks a ton. the pic is just an example, mine is similar but fused to the carb body! but my rebuild kit does come with the blue gaskets so I have that going for me... so the question is 'why doesn't it come off the carb?' I got the 2 jets out with little trouble and then I thought for sure the power valve was holding this plate to the body. it just doesn't want to budge, but the bowls took some serious persuasion and base really didn't want to come off, until it did. I will keep at it!
 
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  #48  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:17 PM
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They can be a pain if together for along time.
I would spray something like PB Blaster along the gasket area and let it work its way in.
This can take a bit but if you start using a screw driver you can mess up sealing area and have leaks that gaskets can not seal.
Dave ----
 
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  #49  
Old 06-13-2018, 01:35 PM
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Finally cracked them apart, sketchy amount of force and the plate behind that! the one that 90% mates to a gasket, forget about it!

Want to check that the new power valve is the correct, old one looks a lot like this:



while the new one is more like this:




I haven't opened the bag of parts yet, want to make sure I got the right rebuild kit, it came in a taped up box and was called Trick Kit but I thought I ordered something that wasn't called Trick Kit... the part number sticker on the side of the box matched what I ordered though...
 
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  #50  
Old 06-13-2018, 02:39 PM
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The one you got in the kit is what most look like.
Yours maybe a 2 stage valve as I have only heard of then never seen one.
I would use the one in the kit but note if you have surging at cruise speed the PV is opening & closing.
IIRC the right way to know what PV you need is hook up a vacuum gauge and drive and note the reading.
Lets say it is reading 10 HG you want to go half that on the PV so you would need to get a 5 HG valve.

For jets on the primary side drive it about 5 miles and don't open the secondaries. Pull to the side of the road and pull plugs for readings, they should be light gray.
Or use a Air Fuel meter and see what it reads and adjust primary jet to get the right mix.

For secondary jets you need to do a full throttle blast, holding it to the floor, turn motor off, foot still to floor, cost to road side and pull plugs and take reading.
Or use a AF meter.
Dave ----
 
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  #51  
Old 06-13-2018, 05:02 PM
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Most engines with near stock smooth idling cams can use the stock 6.5 power valve that comes with most Holleys. Only once did I have to order and install a 3.5 in a engine that had one of those lumpy wild camshafts in it.
 
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  #52  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:07 PM
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good practice to soak the paper gaskets? the blue ones no? restoring tamperproof idle mix valves is described in instructions for rebuild but is this necessary? in the instructions they talk about adjusting primary idle mix valves back to # of turns recorded at disassembly, I am assuming this is because Ford buried these valves and other 4180s have them present from stock? don't remember taking out any valves from the throttle base plate. I don't plan to tinker with this setup; if I can get it to work I'll be happy, if it is finicky I may be replacing it with a 2bbl and spend my time learning that setup in detail. thanks again
 
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  #53  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:26 PM
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which is the best Holley carb to go after? Iím about to order one tomorrow, so far been hearing the road warrior with electric choke is pretty good, any other options or opinions? Also Iíll be attempting to hook up the compressor back onto the engine, what will I need? Seems the old owner removed it.
 
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  #54  
Old 06-14-2018, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dziwei View Post
good practice to soak the paper gaskets? the blue ones no? restoring tamperproof idle mix valves is described in instructions for rebuild but is this necessary? in the instructions they talk about adjusting primary idle mix valves back to # of turns recorded at disassembly, I am assuming this is because Ford buried these valves and other 4180s have them present from stock? don't remember taking out any valves from the throttle base plate. I don't plan to tinker with this setup; if I can get it to work I'll be happy, if it is finicky I may be replacing it with a 2bbl and spend my time learning that setup in detail. thanks again
When putting gaskets on or off? Off yes on I never have.

I don't put the tamper proof back on unless I have to be 100% stock for shows and that's not going to happen.

The number of turns is a starting place I would still adjust after it is warmed up.

I think they are talking the butterflys. 2 screws hold each to the shaft. I would not remove them. Screws are staked over so they don't fall out so you would need to deal with that. Also if you don't get the butterflies back in the same place and way they don't close and stick.
Dave - - - -
 
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  #55  
Old 06-14-2018, 09:28 AM
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well if it is standard operating procedure to adjust using the idle mixture valves then I guess I need to head to the easy-out store and brush up on my drilling skills... keeping my fingers crossed.
 
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  #56  
Old 06-14-2018, 04:34 PM
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Anyone recall the pump nozzle gaskets being an odd fit? one is supposed to crush into a cone shape I'm guessing and the other one is just a bit over-sized for such a small part/space, both O.D. and I.D.? thanks

haven't found a drill bit that will cut into those hardened plugs yet, tool/machine supply store says they have cobalt/carbide and full carbide but that the full carbide are prone to break in a hand held drill... shoulda read the manual, its the first thing they tell you to do is drill out those tamper proof plugs! hehe (I actually don't have a manual!)
 
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  #57  
Old 06-14-2018, 05:09 PM
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I thought the instructions told you to cut the plugs out? Yes you do need to take them out, so the passages can be properly cleaned. In the old days, part of a proper tune-up was always a tweak to these idle screws. Do not be afraid to adjust them, the number of turns in the instructions is just a starting point, they need to be tweaked so the engine idles it's best.

No need to soak the gaskets.

If you were going to swap carbs, I would certainly put a 4bbl carb back on a 4bbl intake, not a 2bbl on a 2bbl intake.
 
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  #58  
Old 06-14-2018, 07:07 PM
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thanks again Dave F, yeah the instructions say to remove them at the beginning of this process, here I was thinking I was getting ready to put it back together and just spent a day trying to get those plugs out! I never read the instructions because they were in the sealed plastic bag of parts and I didn't think to download them, doh! I could have been wrestling with these plugs while things were soaking... hindsight.

are these screws generally kept in sync, like 2 primaries both have same setting, having the same number of threads/turns? or do I thread one in until I feel it in the valve and stop and set the other the same then equal turns from there?
 
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  #59  
Old 06-15-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dziwei View Post
thanks again Dave F, yeah the instructions say to remove them at the beginning of this process, here I was thinking I was getting ready to put it back together and just spent a day trying to get those plugs out! I never read the instructions because they were in the sealed plastic bag of parts and I didn't think to download them, doh! I could have been wrestling with these plugs while things were soaking... hindsight.

are these screws generally kept in sync, like 2 primaries both have same setting, having the same number of threads/turns? or do I thread one in until I feel it in the valve and stop and set the other the same then equal turns from there?
When you pull the needle valves out first turned them in counting the number of turns till lightly seated.
You can use this as a starting point.

Yes both should be the same number of turns give or take 1/8 to a 1/4 turn.
Dave - - - -
 
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  #60  
Old 06-15-2018, 06:50 PM
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Couldn't get the plugs out but drilled access holes through them to adjust valves and blew out the the valves with 3 cycles of carb cleaner after they had soaked for several days in the open position so should be good and can be adjusted!

NEED HELP: does this kit usually come with a intake to carb gasket??? mine was very thin and the only gasket that could serve this purpose is twice as thick and has plastic grommets at the bolt holes, IF anyone can help with this question I can mount it up and test my work!!! thanks. (well maybe not twice as thick) At this point I know for sure that there was a thin gasket on the intake and over that was a heat shield.
 
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