First off, hello to the forum.
I have a 66 f100 I was given by my father when I was around 13..ish (96). He got the truck off a farm in Wilkesboro nc with around 50k miles. Original owner. Bought the truck to farm. Found out it had too little load holding, too high geared, and wouldn't pull itself off wet grass so he just drove it to get feed occasionally from nearby union grove.
Anyway I asked for it, got it, drove it very little, to graduation, prom, my wedding etc. Its still solid and drivable and I'm going to restore it, it pretty much just needs chrome refinished, one dent fixed where a ramp broke and it hit a 4x4, and a rip in the metal fixed on that fender. It has set for 5 years now for no reason in particular has 64k on it I think.
sorry for the long background story, but it gets me to my questions. I was told the engine was a 352. It has a 3 speed on the column (with a 10 inch gt grant steering wheel someone must have put on it as a joke or to give me my workouts) no power steering, 4- wheel drums etc. After reading lately though and seeing all the hate for the 352, then reading the thread on top speed I'm beginning to wonder if there was any other engine options I have missed. I'm fairly sure the truck is stock. We have a camper special with a 390 4 spd, as well as a 70 with a 360 and my 352 has similar power to either. It will also run well over 100 not tacking very high while others on the top speed thread were way under. Having owned (and still daily driving) v8 mustangs and trans ams with over 300 go and 4.10 gears, I just can't imagine this truck only having 205hp which is the specs I read for the 66 352
my next question was about disc break conversion. I just want the truck to drive once a month or so and it stopped well enough, however I know it needs at least one wheel cylinder now. So is it really worth doing for so little driving?
and last question for now is how common were the big hoop rear view mirrors, and what is the open slot in the top of the door near the bottom mirror mount for?

 

 

welcome! I did a front disc brake conversion to my 66. used the front ibeams and all the brake components off a 79 f150 everything fit well and was pretty easy. good luck with your build.

 

As far as the 352 hate i was referring to all the "why would you rebuild that tractor motor" and swap in a 390 crank" etc comments that are so common. People love the 390 and bigger fe engines but down the others. Idk. With this one I'll leave it as is, no power steering, mostly stock. I always liked watching people struggle to turn that little gt grant while setting still, and trying to figure out why a column shift automatic had a clutch, or hunting fur the dimmer . Lol. I may put in a mold cam while I'm re ringing it though.
I don't currently have a 2wd to swap anything from. I have a 79 4wd. And the camper special. A few fox body mustangs and a couple 90s Lincoln's junked . I just want the truck to look nice and last, mostly the latter. I have prime and clear, debating on basecoat though. Its been "mack blue" since the mid 90s. No clue what it was before that.
I have also noticed many of the restoration f100s doing have the side trim. Was this optional or do they just remove it for the look? Or because it's hard to get off without ruining it.
Also, my truck has had an emblem (Maybe 2) riding in the dash since we got it, it's a bird with a checkered flag and 352 below it. I'm guessing it came from a t-bird and the owner wanted to put it on there but idk. Any ideas where that came from. Pretty sure it didn't come off the truck

 

Welcome to FTE

There's different philosophies, ask ten different people you'll find twelve different opinions. It's YOUR truck, do what you want, not what you think others think you want. Or something like that. However, it's important to base "what you want" on facts and solid info, and not BS told and retold over and over and getting piled higher and deeper each time. And then there's budget concerns. Usually anyway. But there's a lot of misconceptions about old iron - some exaggerated, some valid.

For example, and not picking on you, but that giant steering wheel is exactly what you want, with manual steering. Now it is true a truck just pulled out of the weeds with no lube in the steering box, wacked linkage and half flat, oversize tires, worn shocks etc is going to be tough sledding. I've got mine dialed in, it tracks straight as a train on the highway and is usually one finger steering as long as the truck is moving. Modern, small diameter wheels came about when power steering was utilized, not before.

Manual steering does suck parallel parking, or in a tight drive through, but I don't do that, either. The cool thing is it is completely silent, and on gravel and dirt roads it is maybe even easier to turn than power assist. No belts whining, no pumps to worry about, etc. There's different ways to look at things. The one downside to keep in mind, if you hit a boulder or something just right, a manual steering gear will send that shock back through the steering wheel and can break your wrist or thumbs.

I saw the wheel go from lock to lock in a millisecond once, it hummed like a fan! Keep your thumbs outside the spokes when offroad.

4 wheel drum brakes: when setup right they will put you through the windshield if needed, there's nothing really wrong with them. They are a dying art though, like everything else obsolete tech. If you're commuting daily on the I5 say, you won't like them. You won't like 3 on the tree either. I like to hop in the old truck when I'm not in a hurry, when the weather is nice, and highway cruising, or backroads, dirt, etc.

And you kind of have to decide what you want to do, with an eye to the future. Because everything (brakewise) at least has to be replaced on those 50 years on. Realistically. Drums, wheel cylinders, steel brake lines, brake hoses, springs, master cylinder etc. Maybe not the brake pedal itself, but you should inspect it closely.

 

352: 1958/60 Thunderbird; 1958/67 full sized Ford Passenger Cars; 1960 Edsel; 1965/67 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350.

Bodyside mouldings (reproduced by Carolina Classics) were an option usually installed on 1965/66 F100/250 Custom Cab & Ranger Styleside pickups.

Bird with checkered flag and 352 emblem installed on the front fenders of 1962/64 Galaxies.

Similar emblems installed on Galaxies & full sized Mercs with: 390 (1962/64); 406 (1962/63); 427 (1963 1/2 & 1964). 352 not available in Mercs.

I owned a 1965 F100 352 3 M/T with Overdrive for 44 years (1965/2009). Power steering wasn't available in 1965, power drum brakes were, but my truck didn't have them.

I never felt the need for power steering. The drum brakes (11" x 2" front/11" x 1 3/4" rear) were adequate, but you have to know what their limitations are.

Drive thru puddles of water, you have to ride the brake pedal to dry out the brakes. After 2 or 3 panic stops, the brakes fade badly. Swap in front discs from a 1973/79 F100/150, problems solved.

Post a pic of the Warranty Plate or type all the info. Warranty Plate riveted to the left door face below the latch.

btw: While people love the 390, most in today's world have never heard of the 352 or 360 that along with the 390 was introduced in 1968 F100/350.

And...on sale day, 352/360's magically become 390's!

 

Before I had even gotten my truck I had figured on doing disc brakes and power steering. After rebuilding everything and being on the road over a year, I plan to do neither. As Tedster said, if things are set up right, they work well. Slightly skinnier tires up front help and I do have power assist brakes as well. No complaints and it is my daily driver.

 

Keep in mind that while the brakes might be upgraded to modern specs - what about the steering, and suspension? I think people can sometimes get way out in front of their skis this way.

This is also true of disc brakes as well, though not quite as pronounced. But it will get your attention right away regardless. I don't look at it as a deal, ah, breaker.

Just how many "panic stops" in a row do you figure on making in a day? Jus' Sayin'. See this is what I was talking about earlier.

Between all the complaining everybody does about 4 way drum brakes, points and condensers, generators & regulators, manual steering, carburetors, etc etc, it must be obvious by now that nobody ever actually drove the damn things, anywhere, back in the day. No way.

Too risky, and besides, they wouldn't start. Or stop. Or idle. Or charge the battery, and you couldn't see at night anyway.

QED

 

Welcome.
A reference for you, and my 2 cents.
I have a stock 67 F100 Ranger LB with 352 2v/ MX automatic. It gets a little more use than yours.
352 is a fine engine, when used as intended in its day.
Rebuilt drum brakes at all 4 corners. It works well, but I had an issue with the armstrong manual steering and super hard brakes (albeit wih a stock steering wheel).
I added stock brake booster and power steering.
Nice and easy now.
No need for discs for what I use it for.

 

I agree completely with all those. I plan to do neither power steering or discs, although discs are an option. Also I didn't say giant steering wheel, I said 10 inch gt grant, (unless my phone changed it to giant) Quite the opposite. I actually drove the truck for 14k miles from 01-05 or so. I think the drums are surprisingly adequate and don't mind the manual steering at all. I just want to refresh it and make it look as good in 18 years so my son will be as proud of it as I was. (Unless he is like some kids i know, in which case one of my daughter's will get it, then ill add power steering or at least steal a big steering wheel from one of the other's. Lol) not worried about huge power, nor being period correct really. Fighting off adding power and cost for no reason will be my biggest problem. I loved the truck just like it was, I just have to remind myself of that.
The only reason discs are considered is because the Last couple times i drove the truck moving it around I could do a 180 by letting go of the wheel and hitting the break. One wheel cylinder is toast I guess. I'm sure all 4 breaks could use work, add they haven't been changed out looked at since 01 and all 4 drums and cylinders with pads and springs look like around 400 dollars. That amount makes me question changing them out for discs. They are not power drums btw.
. My truck has the trim all the way down the sides. In pretty good shape, but may be rough to keep in good shape removing them. Thanks for answering about them being optional. I didn't know that.
ill get the number assuming it's on there and post that. I'll also take a picture of the bird 352 emblems, if I can identify what they came from ill help someone out with it (or them, i can't remember if its 1 or 2) someday
One more question though, where was the horn originally? Mine now is a button on the dash. Im guessing it was in the wheel and the grant wheel didn't have one. Was it a big metal ring in the wheel, or center button or were there options

 

I've been 'sold' on disc brakes since 1961. Senior prom was held at the Bel-Air Country Club, it was raining like Billy B. Gesus.

My pal, who lived in Beverly Hills was driving his moms '61 Pontiac station wagon. I went to his house, then we had to head "over the hill" to Van Nuys to pick up our dates.

Within a few blocks, the brakes were so soaked, they were useless, so he went back to his house and borrowed his stepfathers 1961 Jaguar 3.8 sedan with 4 wheel discs.

Never had another brake problem, even though some of the puddles were so deep they were almost up to the rocker panels.

 

I drove my truck to my high school gradation in a massive storm. I don't remember the brakes fading at all then or any other time. But I guess I never really drove it like a track car, I've kept mustangs and a couple Subaru for spirited driving. I do remember running in Roses and buying rain-x because the wipers weren't cutting it and the headlights weren't much help, then stopping in a car wash to put it on... good memories now, but didn't seem so great Then. Maybe i was just going so slow I didn't need brakes. As far as drums go though, our dump trucks have drums as do our trailers, some with air but not all. So drums must still be doing something right.
what all is involved in switching to power drums? I have never seen a power drum. Same lines? Vacuum or hydro? Obviously with no ps hydro isn't an option for me

 

Also thanks to every one for the information,
and to numberdummy, Carolina classics is only a few hours away. Ill check them out of i need anything, not foreseen in this project but maybe another

 

Yep, the problem is brakes can't really be worked on piecemeal or a little bit at a time, they just don't lend themselves to that. Everytime the system is opened up, everything has to be bled, for one thing.

Brake work, if you get in the manuals, they are clear on this, is always done in axle pairs, if one drum is turned for example, the other one needs to be the same. If one cylinder is replaced (or honed) the other one gets the same. The idea is to keep everything on the same clearances, for equal braking side to side, to prevent pulling to one side.

All three brake hoses are junk by now. Master cylinder needs replace, or rebuilding. retracting springs.. shoes..

Then you'll get to thinking after all that, I'm not really going to leave those 52 year old cruddy steel lines on there? Then last but, not least - the front hubs are pretty much unobtanium. You can buy the drums, but you'll have to take the old hub & drum assembly to a machine shop and have them pressed off and reinstalled on the new drums.

SO, decide early on which way you want to go. So you can stop!

 

I'm looking more at longevity and common sense. If I can get better breaks for similar money (without proprietary calipers or high dollar pads like some kits I've seen) I may. As far as the machine shop, anything I don't have at home or at my workplace, my father or father in law has, both service their machinery, and if even that doesn't work my brother in law works as half of a two man full service garage, I have had to go that route a couple times on my Rubicon. Any of us can service the drum system. All of my donor vehicles I have junked are 4wd however or id just switch over. But im guessing that can't work?
so that brings me to hunting a 2wd with discs, any suggestions on what would swap over readily? Or I have the option of a kit which I've found for 1700 using common calipers and pads, master and so forth. Any suggestions on a different kit? Then I feel like its going away from the column shifted/ manual choked/ primitive vehicle that I enjoyed anyway. Add far as the lines, I'm going to pull the body and blast then coat the frame, I'll change the lines then anyway. Id already planned that. Obviously once i start tearing it apart plans may change, it may no longer be optional, but mandatory to convert. Im just planning now.
Again sorry for the rambling and long posts, I'm just a compulsive planner, (but not one of those who don't see things through, so long as nothing bad happens to me or my family this will be seen through) and this project has sentimental value to me, and while I have the mechanical ability, I know I don't have even a small percentage of the knowledge you folks do on these vehicles. thanks again