The only description I have of where this drain plug is comes from the procedure to flush the coolant. It states it is on the passenger side, to remove the wheel well lining, and cover the starter with plastic so it doesn't get hosed when the plug is pulled. I, for the life of me, can not find where this is. There is a larger circle with what appears to be some kind of plug/cap, but it is pressed in - not threaded to where I can unscrew it. It seems too big to be a drain plug to me also.

If you happen to have a picture post it up.

In case it makes any difference, this is a 2011 MY I am working on. If the plug location changed for later MY's that may be the source of my lack of finding it.

I will drop the coolant from the radiators and proceed with the rest of the EGR work for now and then come back to the plug.

 

Steve,

Take a look at this: 6.7L Block Heater Install - DTS Articles - Diesel Technician Society

I suspect its the same location that the block heater element is installed if you have that. there are photos.

 

Thanks Dave. I'll pull the wheel and see what I find. I don't have the block heater.

 

This the procedure for draining the primary and secondary cooling systems from Ford Service DVD.

Primary Cooling system

Draining [img]SFO~us~en~file=ani_caut.GIF~gen~ref.GIF[/img] WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. NOTICE: Always fill the cooling system with the manufacturer's specified coolant. If a non-specified coolant has been used the cooling system MUST be chemically flushed. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Oil Contamination in this section. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the cooling system. NOTICE: Recover the coolant in a suitable, clean container. If the coolant is contaminated with a radiator sealant or stop-leak, oil or combustion by-products it must be recycled or disposed of correctly and the system MUST be chemically flushed. If the cooling system is drained to make a repair to a cooling system component where evidence is seen of aluminum erosion or cavitation, the coolant must be recycled or disposed of correctly and the system MUST be flushed out with water to remove all particulate contaminants and MUST be chemically flushed. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Oil Contamination in this section. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the cooling system. NOTE: During normal vehicle operation, Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant may change color from orange to pink or light red. As long as the engine coolant is clear and uncontaminated, this color change does not indicate the engine coolant has degraded nor does it require the engine coolant to be drained, the system to be flushed, or the engine coolant to be replaced.NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant capacity can be recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the pressure relief cap from the degas bottle.

1. Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock.

1. Open the radiator draincock and drain the coolant into a suitable clean container.

1. Close the radiator draincock when finished.

1. Remove the RH fender splash shield. Refer to Section 501-02 .

1. Completely cover the starter with waterproof plastic.

1. NOTE: Use of a long ball-end hex bit socket eases removal of the drain plug.Remove the drain plug and drain the coolant from the RH side of the engine block.
   • Install the drain plug when finished and tighten to 60 Nm (44 lb-ft).

1. Remove the waterproof plastic from the starter.

1. Release the clamp, disconnect the engine-to-engine oil cooler hose from the engine oil cooler and drain the coolant from the LH side of the cylinder block.
   • Connect the engine-to-engine oil cooler hose and position the clamp when finished.

Filling and Bleeding with Vacuum Cooling System Filler NOTICE: Before filling the cooling system, evaluate the cooling system condition. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in this section. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the engine. NOTICE: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Always fill the cooling system with Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Do not mix coolant types. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the engine or cooling system. NOTICE: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, corrosion protection and cooling efficiency to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, maintain the engine coolant at the correct concentration and fluid level. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the engine or cooling system.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

• Do not mix coolant types. Mixing coolants degrades the coolant corrosion protection.
• Do not add alcohol, methanol or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
• Do not mix with recycled coolant. Use of such coolant may harm the engine and cooling system components.

When adding or topping off the engine coolant:

1. measure the coolant concentration in the vehicle using Battery/Coolant Refractometer ROB75240 or equivalent.
2. determine the concentration based on the vehicle duty cycle of extreme hot or cold operating conditions.
3. add/top off or adjust the coolant as follows:
   • for concentrations measured 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to water (equates to a freeze point between -34°C and -37°C [-30°F and -34°F]) use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted to maintain a coolant concentration in this same range.
   • for all other concentrations, use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and/or distilled water to get to the desired concentration.

When filling the engine coolant after a flush procedure, use a mixture of Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and distilled water to get to the desired concentration. NOTE: Filling the cooling system with a vacuum cooling system filler is the preferred method.

1. Install the RH fender splash shield. Refer to Section 501-02 .

1. Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Section 414-01 .

1. NOTICE: With the engine cold, fill vehicles to within the cold fill range shown on the degas bottle. This fill level allows for coolant expansion. Overfilling the degas bottle may result in damage to the pressure cap, which can cause the engine to overheat. Install the vacuum cooling system filler and follow the tool manufacturer instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system.
   • Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]) engine coolant to distilled water.
   • For extremely cold climates (less than -37°C [-34°F]):
     • It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
     • NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
     • Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
     • A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze point protection down to -50°C (-58°F).
     • Engine coolant concentrations above 60% decrease the overheat protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
   • For extremely hot climates:
     • It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
     • NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
     • Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
     • A coolant concentration of 40% provides freeze point protection down to -26°C (-15°F).
     • Engine coolant concentrations below 40% decrease the freeze and corrosion protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
   • Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]) mixture of engine coolant and distilled water for optimum cooling system and engine protection.

[img]SFO~us~en~file=N0113768_250.JPG~gen~ref.JPG[/img]

1. NOTE: Failure to block the radiator off will require more time before the thermostat will open.Position a piece of cardboard on the driver side half of the radiator.

1. Fill the degas bottle to the maximum fill line.
   • Install the degas bottle cap until it starts to ratchet. Back the degas bottle cap off one-half turn.

1. Run the engine at 2,000 RPM for 2 minutes.

1. Bring the engine to an idle.
   • Determine if the thermostat has opened by feeling the temperature of the upper radiator hose at the radiator. If the hose is cool then the thermostat has not opened. If the hose is warm or hot then the thermostat has opened.

1. If the coolant level has dropped below the minimum fill line then refill the degas bottle to the maximum fill line.
   • Install the degas bottle cap until it starts to ratchet. Back the degas bottle cap off one-half turn.

1. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 until the thermostat opens.
   • The coolant level will rise before the thermostat opens due to thermal expansion. The coolant level will drop after the thermostat opens due to air exiting the system.

1. Repeat Steps 3 and 5 until the coolant level stabilizes.

1. Stop the engine and remove the cardboard from the radiator.

1. Restart and idle the engine for 5 minutes to stabilize the coolant temperature.

1. Fill the degas bottle to 20 mm (0.787 in) above the maximum fill line.
   • Install the degas bottle cap.

1. Verify that the cardboard has been removed from the radiator.

Secondary Cooling system

Draining [img]SFO~us~en~file=ani_caut.GIF~gen~ref.GIF[/img] WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. NOTICE: Always fill the cooling system with the manufacturer's specified coolant. If a non-specified coolant has been used the cooling system must be chemically flushed. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Fuel or Transmission Fluid Contamination in this section. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the engine or cooling system. NOTICE: Recover the coolant in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated, dispose of it properly and fill the system with new coolant. Flush the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Flushing — Without Fuel or Transmission Fluid Contamination or Cooling System Flushing — With Fuel or Transmission Fluid Contamination in this section. Failure to follow these instructions may damage to the cooling system. NOTE: During normal vehicle operation, Motorcraft Orange Antifreeze/Coolant may change color from orange to pink or light red. As long as the engine coolant is clear and uncontaminated, this color change does not indicate the engine coolant has degraded nor does it require the engine coolant to be drained, the system to be flushed, or the engine coolant to be replaced.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock.

1. Remove the pressure relief cap from the degas bottle.

1. Open the radiator draincock and drain the coolant into a suitable clean container.

1. Close the radiator draincock when finished.

1. If necessary, disconnect the transmission fluid cooler inlet hose from the transmission fluid cooler and the fuel cooler outlet hose from the fuel cooler to completely drain the system. Drain the coolant into a suitable clean container. Reconnect the hoses when finished.

Filling and Bleeding with Vacuum Cooling System Filler NOTICE: Before filling the cooling system, evaluate the cooling system condition. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in this section. Failure to follow these instructions can damage the cooling system. NOTICE: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Do not mix coolant types. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the cooling system. NOTICE: Coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, corrosion protection and cooling efficiency to the cooling system components. In order to obtain these protections, maintain the coolant at the correct concentration and fluid level. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the cooling system.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

• Do not mix coolant types. Mixing coolants degrades the coolant corrosion protection.
• Do not add alcohol, methanol or brine, or any coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause cooling system damage from overheating or freezing.
• Do not mix with recycled coolant. Use of such coolant may harm the cooling system components.

When adding or topping off the engine coolant:

1. measure the coolant concentration in the vehicle using Coolant/Battery Refractometer ROB75240 or equivalent.
2. Determine the concentration desired based on duty cycle of extreme hot or cold operating conditions.
3. add/top off coolant as follows:
   • for concentrations measured 48/52 to 50/50 engine coolant to water (equates to a freeze point between -34°C and -37°C [-30°F and -34°F]), use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted to maintain a coolant concentration in this same range.
   • For all other concentrations, use Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and/or distilled water to get to the desired concentration.

When refilling the engine coolant after a flush procedure, use a mixture of Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated and distilled water to get to the desired concentration. NOTE: Filling the cooling system with a vacuum cooling system filler is the preferred method.

1. NOTICE: With the engine cold, fill vehicles to within the cold fill range shown on the degas bottle. This fill level allows for coolant expansion. Overfilling the degas bottle may result in damage to the pressure cap, which can cause the cooling system to overheat. Install the vacuum cooling system filler and follow the tool manufacturer instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system.
   • Recommended coolant concentration is 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]) engine coolant to distilled water.
   • For extremely cold climates (less than -37°C [-34°F]):
     • It may be necessary to increase the coolant concentration above 50%.
     • NEVER increase the coolant concentration above 60%.
     • Maximum coolant concentration is 60/40 for cold weather areas.
     • A coolant concentration of 60% provides freeze point protection down to -50°C (-58°F).
     • Engine coolant concentrations above 60% decrease the overheat protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
   • For extremely hot climates:
     • It is still necessary to maintain the coolant concentration above 40%.
     • NEVER decrease the coolant concentration below 40%.
     • Minimum coolant concentration is 40/60 for warm weather areas.
     • A coolant concentration of 40% provides freeze point protection down to -26°C (-15F).
     • Engine coolant concentrations below 40% decrease the freeze and corrosion protection characteristics of the engine coolant and may damage the engine.
   • Vehicles driven year-round in non-extreme climates should use a 48/52 to 50/50 (freeze protection -34°C to -37°C [-30°F to -34°F]) mixture of engine coolant and distilled water for optimum cooling system and engine protection

 

How much does the shop charge to change out the coolant ? seems like a big job.

 

It depends on what is being worked on and why the coolant needs changed. If you are just doing a coolant flush/change that is one thing. In my case, the EGR cooler core is being replaced - and the coolant needs dropped to replace the core as the EGR cooler sits in the coolant circuit. So - for the EGR core replacement and the coolant it would be around $1000.

 

This plug netted me less than 1/2 gallon of coolant. The radiator drain gave me around 4 gallons. So that is 4.5. Doing the math, there should be over 7 gallons in the system so I am missing 2.5 gallons somewhere. The question is where and why it isn't coming out when I pull the block plug.

I added 4 gallons of distilled water to the system and the result of what is in the system is below - still has way too much color in it.

 

You will never get it all by just draining. The block and ancillary items are holding the rest.

 

Did you read what I posted earlier?

1. Remove the RH fender splash shield. Refer to Section 501-02 .

1. Completely cover the starter with waterproof plastic.

1. NOTE: Use of a long ball-end hex bit socket eases removal of the drain plug.Remove the drain plug and drain the coolant from the RH side of the engine block.
   • Install the drain plug when finished and tighten to 60 Nm (44 lb-ft)

1. Release the clamp, disconnect the engine-to-engine oil cooler hose from the engine oil cooler and drain the coolant from the LH side of the cylinder block.
2. Connect the engine-to-engine oil cooler hose and position the clamp when finished.

 

Thanks for the input. I missed the part about the left side of the block. I am not sure where the hose is that is noted, however I pulled the large hose apart underneath the radiators and got quite a bit of coolant out this time.

I will refill with distilled and see how much it takes.

The RH block drain and the hose I disconnected up front make a big mess - no way around it. Oh well. Got lots of oil dry and a tarp.

 

Not to hi jac the thread.. I am approaching the time to get the coolant changed. Just wondering what shops might charge.

 

That is the "freeze out" plug. It's supposed to crack before the block cracks in the event the coolant / antifreeze fails and the liquid in the block freezes.

 

That is a big lie that has been perpetuated over the years. Those are NOT freeze plugs.

They are not there to pop out if the block freezes. They are expansion plugs. The holes these plugs are inserted into are there so the casting sand can be removed from the blocks after the blocks is cast in a sand mold with sand cores.

Some people have been lucky that the expansion plugs popped out instead of the block cracking.

 

Unfortunately, Larry is right. I have witnessed more than one cracked block. the plugs were intact, cracks were just above or below the plugs.

 

Not to stray off topic, and hoping that someone stil may read this post..

I have a 2013 F350 6.7 with just over 120,000 and I've been pulling the P0401 since about 70,000 miles. My husband finally decided to listen to me and clean the EGR cooler (almost completely solid soot) but upon "completing" it, was filling it back up and started pouring from some unknown place. Am I right to assume that this procedure must be followed when cleaning the EGR cooler?

I was looking through the post EGR Cooler Core Replacement - First Timers Guide - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Is this accurate? It seems to be VERY well detailed, but it seems to not include everything you detailed here... Do i combine the two procedures? I need my truck back and would like to be able to tackle this myself because its been 2 days now, but don't want to get into it and then get something way wrong and hear the "that's why women shouldn't work on cars" speel...
And does anyone have a schematic of the cooling system that has a little more detail about the lines going to and from the EGR cooler to the primary, secondary, and degas canister?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks