I have a 2008 f350 dually crew 4x4. It’s time to get a new one. What seems the best year models out of 2014-2017?

 

Welcome to FTE !
I'm sure you will find any of those years to be very reliable.
Good luck shopping

 

 

2011+ has the 6.7L but I've heard to stay away from the 2011. My 2017 is a beast and I'm quite pleased with it. I held out for a 2017 so I could get the aluminum body.

 

mine is a 2013 drw, been just fine with no issues with the motor or trans. Did have a radio problem though.

I'd go for any 2012 and up truck. 2013's and up DRW got better 5th wheel/gooseneck ratings due to additional cross members and bigger brakes..

 

The 15+ had a whole host of upgrades you can Google, but the main are they did away with the little sst turbo and went with a bigger, more reliable, vgt single, and a bigger hpfp. 17 they went to the aluminum body.

 

I put 150,000 miles on a early build 2011, another 90,000 miles on a 2015 and now I'm adding miles to a 2017.

They all have been good trucks. Typical problems for me have been Death Wobble which is usually fixed with a new Steering Stabilizer, new shocks and in one case new front bearing/hubs. Batteries for me last 36 months. OEM tires are shot by 30,000 miles. The Toyos ATs I been using for replacements are usually 50,000 mile tires. Shocks at 50-60K, Front brakes usually need work by 80,000 miles.

Other than these kind of repairs, They have been pretty solid for me. But I have not run them 200,000 or more miles
If you can afford it. 2015 has enough improvements to justify buying at least that new.

I bought a 17 because I wanted the LED lights for better lighting, the retractable running boards, and the Camera package that gives you the 360 view around your truck

 

Welcome to FTE.

I haven't kept up with the improvements so much, however in researching some work I am doing to mine I see there are some changes to the engines at the 2015 MY.

That having been said, I have really enjoyed my 2011. I had a 2010 with the 6.4L in it. I didn't quite get to 10,000 miles with it and it was totaled. Eventually I ended up with my 2011 6.7 instead. If it wasn't for the accident I'd probably still have the 2010.

For pulling power - it is hard to beat the 6.7's.
Cold weather starting - I don't have a block heater in mine and I've been in good shape to -15deg F.

The only real "dead in the water" issue I had with mine was an EGT sensor that went bad when I tried to go to work when it was -10deg F. I had it towed to the dealer. Since then I got a ScanGauge and a spare sensor - always in the truck at the ready. If another temp sensor goes (all are the same) I can read the code to tell the sensor, swap it, clear the code, and be back down the road.

For reliability - I have been running PM-22 fuel additive in the warmer months. Only if it dips below about 10deg do I switch to PM-23 Antigel in the winter months.

I have never seen the "water in fuel" idiot light/message. This can be an issue - by the time you get a warning it is likely too late. That is another reason I use the additives every tank.

I have not had the "death wobble" issues. The only ride-quality issue I will note is that I have an oscillation with mine on certain roads - namely ones with a jointed/segmented concrete base that causes the asphalt to crack - that gets the truck bucking. I put the Rancho 9000 series shocks on to tame this a bit and they have helped some over the years. This does not occur in usual driving conditions so it hasn't been a huge issue for me. The rest of the truck far out weighs the issue for me.

My truck is a job 2 2011, so not the very first production run but the second, of the 6.7's. As far as reliability issues - the third EGR cooler is plugged up. I have had it replaced twice now under warranty - factory core then two replacements since. The third one is now about to be replaced. If you work yours harder this is likely to not be as much of an issue, but something to be aware of.

I have never had an issue with the DPF or SCR systems.

Mileage on my truck is about 152,000.

I will say that I think one of my front hubs is wearing out. There is a bit of a vibration coming from up front - especially when I turn hard/sharp at slower speeds.

Hope this helps. Its hard to believe mine is 7 model years old, almost 8. No payments and running great, for the most part. I plan to keep it that way.

 

The 2017+ trucks are great. All new body and chassis in '17. I had a previous generation truck and liked it but the new aluminum trucks are _very_ nice. Ride and handling are both improved. Interior is more comfortable and has more room. I love the lighter weight doors and tailgate. I had looked at a '15 previously and decided to keep my old truck.

 

My 2016 has been flawless now with 95k miles on it. My 2011 6.7 had many issues ... the sick thing is I bought the esp for 3k on this 2016 because of the issues I had with the 2011.. and I bet I'm going to go past the 125k point fast and flawless. could of used that 3k..

 

The ford warranties are refundable. There is a small fee. I received $2924 back out of the $3K. Have to go to the dealer you bought the truck from and sign a cancellation form.

 

On the drive home from signing the cancellation form, the motor will seize.....

 

Yeah, because 6.7's are notorious for seizing never I will worry about it.

 

Had my '17 F-350 Lariat for a little over a year and no problems with it. Probably have towed close to 5K miles with it and it does great. 14K miles on the clock so far.

 

x2 on the PAID OFF F350.

My first diesel; 2016 F350 Lariat. I've had it for 1 year 5 months now and has 25,500 miles. No problems as of yet. My factory Michelins are just below half wear and rotated every 5k miles. I like to run 65psi in front and 70 in the rear. It makes the ride a little less rough. I get the oil changed every 5k at the dealer. I changed my fuel filters at 22k, one on frame and one under hood myself using Motorcraft filters. I already changed my air filter slightly after I changed the fuel filters... it was fairly dirty. I plan to change them again at either 10k or 15k miles. The kit is cheaper on Amazon and free shipping with Prime; I also bought the air filter on Amazon. I've used K100, a fuel additive, since new at every fillup to prevent gelling, add lubrication to the crappy ULSD fuel we use and take care of moisture issues. I plan doing the first tranny fluid flush at 30k using only Mercon LV fluid. People here usually will say use only Motorcraft filters but can't say the same for oils. I'm under warranty so I use the Motorcraft oil but time will time once I'm off warranty. Cold weather starting has been great even without plugging in. I plan to pay mine off and keep on trucking.

Don't have any experience with the first gen 6.7s (11-14) but have read enough here to that the 1st gens have the plastic oil pan with had a problematic oil pan bolt known for leaking. The 15s +up have the metal oil pan and new turbo design. 14s rated at 400 hp from factory and the 15s+ rated for 440 hp. The 17s are 450 hp and 935 lb/ft torque. From what I've also heard, the 11s+ get slightly better MPG than the 15s+. Maybe someone will chime in. My buddy has a gasser 17 and I don't like the interior compared to the 16. You lose storage on the doors and no center storage compartment on the 17s. I just like my interior better...My 2 cents.

6.7L Power Stroke Model Year Changes