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05 6.0 crank no start after cab off

6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

05 6.0 crank no start after cab off

Old 05-28-2018, 02:33 AM
juststrokin05 is offline
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Angry 05 6.0 crank no start after cab off

New to the forum, but I have no where else to turn. I recently did a cab off head stud install. I have the cab back on and now I have a crank no start, kinda, it did run 2x for about 15 seconds both times. sorry this is going to be long, but I want to explain everything now!!
A little background: ran an airdog df-165 out of fuel (pump motor wasn't running). spent quite a bit of time getting it to run from that incident. I removed the Airdog and cleaned and reinstalled the factory pump, I.E. new filter and reattached all the lines. with the factory back on I managed to get the truck to start and run. started very hard and ran like crap. so I knew I had at least 1 injector bad, took it to a shop and he confirmed that not only 1 but 2 injectors were bad. I was just going to change the 2 injectors, but decided to remove the bed (which was bad from NY rust) and check the tank to make sure it wasn't sucking debris. on inspection I noticed the screen was missing, my father in law got me rubber fuel hose and a stainless steel clamp to put on since I wasn't using at least half the fuel in the tank. start the truck and took it on the road to see how it would run. it didn't have enough power to break the tires free so I knew it was time for injectors and held the pedal to the floor until they spun (which they did easily then) but noticed excessive black smoke on a factory tune. I backed the truck into the garage and started tearing it apart. I decided since it had head bolts, that Id put studs in, so I opted to removing the cab. now cab removal went smoothly for the most part (did it with a cherry picker....LOL) but we did it. I removed the 3 grounds. (1 by the passenger battery, 1 on the passenger firewall, and one under the passenger door) I unhooked all the wiring needed to remove, steering arm, radiator and other coolers, interior (for weight), a/c line, etc... I tore the motor down to a block, pistons, cam, lifters were all that was left, I put the motor back together (ARP head studs, I didn't have the heads milled because I watched diesel ron...RIP! and said just get the old gasket material off, torqued them down in order, first 50 lbs, then 85lbs, 90 degree turn, 150lbs, then 210lbs per arp manual that came with studs. checked EVERYTHING for wear and I didn't see anything out of the ordinary, EGR delete, new HPOP O-rings and ipr screen from ford, new oil cooler and gaskets, rebuilt and cleaned turbo, and o-ring set for injectors) when I tore apart the injectors 2 of the had the intensifier plunger hanging out the bottom of the housing that sit in. so I ripped apart the tops and cleaned the spool valve (yes I installed them correctly) and found the 2 injectors had a broken clip that held the big plunger on top to the intensifier plunger. I got 2 cores and used the parts from them to repair the injectors. I tore apart, cleaned, inspected, and re-assembled all of them correctly, I took my sweet time doing these. put them back in along with the old stand pipe, dummy plugs, and oil rails (didn't see any O-rings leaking oil around the oil rail to injector nipples). they were the 2 piece stand pipes and updated dummy plugs, so I decided to reinstall them. put everything else back on after I cleaned them. double and triple checked everything. made sure the ground for the injector harness was on, everything was torqued down, no spare nuts or bolts, ficm was bolted down correctly and wires were in the correct places, and im sure im forgetting stuff, but I know I did it. we placed the cab back on, reattached the ground wires first thing, reattached the wiring to the cab wiring, master cylinder and steering arm on, bolted cab down, and tried to start the motor..........NOTHING!
now I got reading and it said it takes some time to purge the air from the oil and fuel, so I killed my batteries and recharged at least 6 times, got new batteries, pulled and tested the starter then reinstalled when it was pronounced good, filled the oil through the oil filter housing (which took forever), and new oil filter, filled the fuel with the cap off and the pump filling it. I did notice drain back and the plastic piece at the top of the regulator was broken into pieces inside the regulator, so I got another blue spring upgrade and changed it out, removed the grounds and sanded them down, including the battery grounds on the frame. placed electric grease on the clean parts of frame and cab and rebolted them, lost a copper washer to a banjo bolt so I ordered new bolts without the cross in the middle and installed them, put all the external parts on (alternators, pulleys, etc.). pulled the ficm and checked the ipr connection, GOOD. checked the ficm connection, GOOD. worried about grounding problems with ficm so I installed grommets into the ficm mounting holes. checked ficm voltage manually and with a scangauge 2, both GOOD at 47.5 to 48.5 volts. getting fuel into the bowl and oil all over the new oil filter I installed. hooked up the scangauge and read the necessary things I had to.

FICM main voltage- 47.5 to 48.5 volts KOEO, during injector buzz, and cranking.
ICP Voltage- 1.70
IPR- 51.5
ICP- 1492, starts out around 1 or 2 and after 15 seconds of cranking the ICP voltage, ICP, and IPR climb to these.

So my questions are:
if it started, doesn't that mean the injectors were firing correctly? which means I didn't mess them up during the cleaning, repairs, and reinstallation. right?
Should they take that long to get to where they need to be? once to ICP climbs the IPR and ICV (ICP voltage) fall into range.
I don't have the rest of the front end together (radiator, intercooler or piping, tranny cooler, PS cooler, etc), should that make a difference? should that stop the engine from firing?
Since everything I watched is where it is supposed to be, what could be stopping it from starting?
before it started there was only white smoke coming from the exhaust and had a rhythm to the cranking. is this normal?
When I got it to run both times, there was a lot of black smoke, is that normal or caused from excessive fuel in the cylinders from when I tried starting it before?
Can a FICM be bad even though manually and with a gauge showed it had the right amount of voltage?
Can ford test a FICM outside of the truck?
MY main question after all this, What is stopping the motor from running?

PLEASE HELP ME... I'm pounding my head off the wall trying to figure this out. Thank you for your time and answers
Old 05-28-2018, 02:38 AM
juststrokin05 is offline
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I forgot to mention that the EGR valve is plugged In, but not installed to prevent codes. the ficm sync is always at 1, within range. and the only check engine light is for glow plug number 4, which was there before the rebuild when the truck ran.
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