2005 TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER
#1
2005 TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER
Problem back after repair of the TBC last season. This time a lot more frequent. Going back out Sunday so gotta do something! I wish I could figure if it's the truck or trailer. Will get on it today. Dang thing will show OK until hit the brakes hard then fail with the loud "bong-bong-bong" and message comes up with check trailer . Stay's that way for a bit then resets to be ok again. It may or may not work next time.... sure glad I have tow/haul mode - the tranny slows me down really good.
#2
Backed truck close to 5er and connected cable to truck.... had wife sit in drivers seat and hold foot on brake and watch the dash and TCB. Crawled under truck and wiggled the wire loam every foot of the way back to the rear.... not once did it fault. Pulled TCB out from under dash and reconnected out of the dash. Did it all over again including wires under dash. Still no fault. Gonna take it on the trip on Sunday and watch to see what do you do if ya can't find a problem? Dealer doesn't have a clue how to troubleshoot it.... replace at customer cost. DUH ! Already had it repaired/replaced (?) at FICMrepair.com last year. Worked OK last season. Anyone have any ideas?
#3
A couple of thoughts. First, it worked for an entire season? Was that quite a few times and distance? If it was, I am wondering what changed since then?
Is there any way you can try your truck over a good run with another trailer? That is not perfect, but if it did happen with another trailer, you would have reason to suspect the truck.
Secondly, if you could find someone with the box that emulates the trailer connection, plug it in and go for a long drive. As far as the truck knows, you have a trailer attaches and again see if it acts up. I would put very little effort into searching the front to back wires anywhere except right at the connections as I regard those as very low percentage trouble spots.
You have posted on this forum many times so you know how this goes. Nine times out of ten it is a failing connection. Back side of the seven pin on the truck is the number one suspect. As a what to fix blindly, I would redo the ground or run a temporary jumper from the trailer frame to the truck chassis going with the industry adage the 80% of all problems are grounding.
I feel for both you and your dealer techs if they have tackled this problem. I know what it is like to feel like you were chasing your tail. I would not replace any parts blindly.
Is there any way you can try your truck over a good run with another trailer? That is not perfect, but if it did happen with another trailer, you would have reason to suspect the truck.
Secondly, if you could find someone with the box that emulates the trailer connection, plug it in and go for a long drive. As far as the truck knows, you have a trailer attaches and again see if it acts up. I would put very little effort into searching the front to back wires anywhere except right at the connections as I regard those as very low percentage trouble spots.
You have posted on this forum many times so you know how this goes. Nine times out of ten it is a failing connection. Back side of the seven pin on the truck is the number one suspect. As a what to fix blindly, I would redo the ground or run a temporary jumper from the trailer frame to the truck chassis going with the industry adage the 80% of all problems are grounding.
I feel for both you and your dealer techs if they have tackled this problem. I know what it is like to feel like you were chasing your tail. I would not replace any parts blindly.
#4
I would suspect the repair failed a second time. Try an aftermarket controller.
i opted to go that route rather than repairing the original. The 05, in particular, seems to have a high failure rate. That was the first year for the integrated controller.. Unless the repair place reengineered the controller, it’s not unreasonable to suspect a repeat failure.
i opted to go that route rather than repairing the original. The 05, in particular, seems to have a high failure rate. That was the first year for the integrated controller.. Unless the repair place reengineered the controller, it’s not unreasonable to suspect a repeat failure.
#6
I do have and tried using a 7 way tester altho I don't know if it replicates an actual trailer. I took it for a drive and hit the brakes several times and nothing showed a fault.
Steve, I re-located my under bumper 7-way very early after buying the truck to the inside of the bed and have had bed-covers ever since. The backside of the connectors is clean and dry ALL the time....yes I looked inside to be sure.
Finn, I believe my next try will be to use an aftermarket controller..... will prob have to remove the fuse (s) to the Ford TBC. If I do get one it will be the Prodigy - prob the II or III..... any suggestions either way?
I am leaving Sunday for a week at a NJ campground...Holly Shores. Maybe (if it screws up yet again) I will be able to befriend a neighbor over there to try to pull another trailer...shouldn't matter if a 5th wheel or bumper pull...so long as their power cord reaches.....
Steve, I re-located my under bumper 7-way very early after buying the truck to the inside of the bed and have had bed-covers ever since. The backside of the connectors is clean and dry ALL the time....yes I looked inside to be sure.
Finn, I believe my next try will be to use an aftermarket controller..... will prob have to remove the fuse (s) to the Ford TBC. If I do get one it will be the Prodigy - prob the II or III..... any suggestions either way?
I am leaving Sunday for a week at a NJ campground...Holly Shores. Maybe (if it screws up yet again) I will be able to befriend a neighbor over there to try to pull another trailer...shouldn't matter if a 5th wheel or bumper pull...so long as their power cord reaches.....
#7
I am using the P3. I didn’t pull any fuses. I think that’s for later model year trucks with the controller display in the dash.
i bought a separate harness for the controller so I didn’t have to make any splice connections, or cut up the factory harness, in case the factory integrated controller wasn’t the problem. I don’t remember for sure, but I think the package said it’s for a Ford Flex. Don’t remember for sure, but it may be from etrailers, where I got the controller.
there are two harness plugs for the factory controller. The p3 plugs into one, and I left the other one hanging.
i bought a separate harness for the controller so I didn’t have to make any splice connections, or cut up the factory harness, in case the factory integrated controller wasn’t the problem. I don’t remember for sure, but I think the package said it’s for a Ford Flex. Don’t remember for sure, but it may be from etrailers, where I got the controller.
there are two harness plugs for the factory controller. The p3 plugs into one, and I left the other one hanging.
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#9
P3 is more electronic push button. P2 works fine, but is not as sophisticated technology, in my opinion. For folks who tow more than one trailer, it will save the setting by trailer. Diagnostics are also very good. There is not much it can't tell you about what is happening with your toad.
#10
#11
Gonna order the controller from Amazon today. I worked intermittently on the way here yesterday. Worked well when I needed it. Funny, found out it wouldn't fail if I did not hit the brakes hard. If I eased into them it worked normally. If the fault did come on, it would stay on for awhile, then reset itself. Me thinks it is an internal heat problem/circuit issue . I'll know when I get the new P3 and start home next Sunday. I will be ordering the pigtail to be able to use the Ford wiring.
#12
#13
I hope so.... and hope I don't need the pigtail as I couldn't find one for my truck. Amazon had 2 different ones but they both came up not for my truck. Maybe it's Plug n Play. Will be here Wednesday so even if I have to find one locally I have time to shop for one. Don't leave here till Sunday.
#14
Received the P3 controller but surely NOT plug n play. Will have to figure out how to mount it and wire colors are different. Got the wires figured out and had to cut & splice to the P3 wires. Lunch break now. Will try to hook it up without permanent mount to see what it looks like first. Can't - or wont try to PULL the RV but will connect the two to see if a fault happens...back later.
#15
OK .... the hardest thing to do with this install was finding a place to mount the dang thing !! Ended up putting inside the drop down compartment BELOW the original TBC. Problem but correctable thing is I gotta find a TBC blank-off plate to insert where the factory TBC goes. I should be able to find an original blank-off plate in a junkyard.
I won't be able to test this other than it showing "Trailer Connected" when I plug it in. That shows OK. One question ; Does the screen ever shut off? Mine is always showing the lighted screen . Did not see anywhere in the wiring instructions to hook the 12v wire to a only on with key on. I used the red wire (12v+ ) on my old connector to my black wire on the P3 connector.
I won't be able to test this other than it showing "Trailer Connected" when I plug it in. That shows OK. One question ; Does the screen ever shut off? Mine is always showing the lighted screen . Did not see anywhere in the wiring instructions to hook the 12v wire to a only on with key on. I used the red wire (12v+ ) on my old connector to my black wire on the P3 connector.