This is our motorhome, 1986 Ford E350 7.5 engine, it was having issues starting in drive and even occasionally in neutral. Then it wouldn't start at all, replaced neutral safety, it would turn over but not test for spark. A week later we have a new ignition module, spark plugs and cables, distributor, rotor and cap, ignition coil. No spark, decided to go back to the beginning and test neutral/safety and found issues. Got a 2nd new one and just plugged the electrical piece in and tried starting and got spark. Undid the zip tie and properly installed, no spark. Troubleshot the wires again and occasionally got spark during testing but not enough to fully start. Now we can't get spark at all again but neutral safety wires are testing properly. We are not mechanics just do it yourself kind of people. I feel like we need to troubleshoot the wires from the end of the neutral safety out but am not sure of the steps. Perhaps the movement while troubleshooting was helping a broken connection occasionally connect enough to get some spark. We have gotten this far following previous posts by others looking for help, hoping someone can help us with the next step.

 

You are asking this question in the wrong forum, this is the 1961/67 E100 & 1957/79 Ranchero forum.

You want the 1968/2013 full size Van forum.

 

 

I do not know allot about the 7.5 / 460 engines but believe there are 2 oil pressure switches on that engine. One is for the gauge on the dash and the other is a safety for the oil pressure. The safety switch for the oil pressure either cuts off gas or spark, or both.. You might want to check into that.

i am assuming your engine has a carburetor and your ignition system is the dura-spark ignition, not a TFI?

On my 85 van with a 50. engine, I had a bad ignition switch. . The engine would turn over but would not start (had no spark) in the start position but when I let off the key and the switch moved to the run position the van would start.

There are 2 circuits from the starter switch to the ignition coil. With the ignition switch in the start position, there is a wire that goes directly to the ignition coil. With the ignition switch in the run position, the ignition coil is fed through a wire that is called a ballast resistor. The ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the coil so it will not over heat. Ford coils and most all other stock coils run on I believe 6 to 8 volts. In the start position the coil is fed 12 volts to give a hotter spark for starting. Once started and the ignition switch returns to the run position, the coil only receives 6 to 8 volts. ... If you check the circuit with the ballast resistor it will read 12 volts though. This is because there is no load on the ballast resistor when the engine is off.

Make sure the ignition module you replaced is the correct one. They have different colored connectors at the base of the module where the wires come out of the module. Make sure it is grounded GOOD..

Make sure the distributor is grounded GOOD. Yes it has a hold down clamp but sometimes oil and grease can cause it to have a bad connection.

You replaced the distributor and it came with all new parts inside, ie the the pick up coil and all?

You need to find a ignition diagram for a 7.5 engine. I do not have one but do have one for a 83 E150 with a 6 cylinder. It does ot show the safety oil pressure switch though. I would think it may be similar to your system though because the 83 with a 6 cylinder and the 86 with the 7.5 engine use the same ignition switch.

 

I have not found a diagram for a 86 Econoline with a 460. Here is one more diagram but it is for a 1987 F250 with a 460 engine. It still would be very similar as the basic Dura-spark ignition systems are all same. In the last post I mentioned the oil pressure safety switch. It does not show it connected to the ignition so I guess it only controls the fuel system.