I read through the walkthrough for earlier models here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ark-plugs.html

Seems simple enough. I've read a bit about some major changes going into 2012, and I'm wondering if there is anything significantly different for MY2012 Escapes that might not line up with that walkthrough. Thanks in advance.

 

I've been through the '02 V6 plug/coil change twice (first to change plugs and coils second time to replace a 1 month old defective spark plug...grrrrr.)
I'm hoping the routine is very similar since it really wasn't as bad as I had feared and I'm watching this post too!

 

I didn't think this would go so long without a response. Perhaps not enough 2012's have trickled down to those who do their own work?

 

I was thinking that too.
Maybe we'll be the ones to blaze that trail when it's needed (that would be my luck).

 

How to replace the spark plugs in a 2011-later V-6 Escape. I just did this job on a 2011 3.0 V6 Escape with 71k miles, the factory CGSF-22N (non-platinum) plugs were worn causing a rough idle.

Thanks to the OP of the procedure for older Escapes, upon which this procedure is loosely based.

Cheers.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Replacing the 3 rear spark plugs on a 2011-later V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job, but it takes more time. It’s easier with the newer drive-by-wire throttle body, as there no throttle cables and cruise control linkages to mess with. But, as with the previous model, the upper intake manifold is in the way, and it has to be moved out of the way. It's not really as bad as it sounds.

This is the order I do it in and not necessarily how you'll want to do it.

You will need 6 new spark plugs, Autolite AP103 worked for me.

Tools: 8mm, 10mm sockets, and various extensions. Pliers that work for Ford hose clamps, and a swivel ratchet are helpful.Start by getting things out of the way.

Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine, this has four snaps holding it to the air cleaner housing.

Remove the front snorkel by loosening the hose clamp attaching it to the air cleaner housing. The hose clamp takes an 8mm.

Pull up the centers of the three push pins holding the front of the snorkel to the radiator support, then get the snorkel out of the way.Loosen the two hose clamps securing the air cleaner to MAF hose.

Remove the 90 degree hose going between the air cleaner housing and the throttle body/MAF. Then pull the air cleaner assembly off four ball studs, they should pop by pulling the air cleaner housing straight up. Do not disconnect any fuel lines.

The front 3 plugs are self-explanatory, but for the unfamiliar: Disconnect the battery if it makes you feel safer. Find the three coil packs on the front-facing valve cover of the engine. Undo the 8mm bolt holding down the coil pack. Undo the electrical connector. Pull the coil pack straight up. Look inside the plug boot and verify the spring is still in there. Clean any condensation. Remove the plug and replace with a new one, with a dab of anti-seize on the threads. Don’t put anti-seize compound anywhere in the combustion side of the plug. Verify there is still a bit of clear silicon dielectric grease inside the plug boot. Reinstall the coil pack, if done correctly the spring will want to push the coil pack up out of the hole. Reinstall the 8mm bolt, plug the electrical connector to the coil pack and move onto the next one.

After doing the front three plugs, you should have a feel for how the plugs are. If they’ve been in there for 70k miles, there will be some carbon buildup and the plugs will need wrenching to get them out. Remember the head is aluminum, the plug is steel.

That wasn’t too bad, was it? Now for the fun part.

Leave the MAF housing attached to the upper plenum, this does not have to be removed. The convolute air hose needs to come off the front of the MAF/throttle body.

Remove the electrical connectors from the MAF/throttle body, EGR valve, coolant temp sensor, and anything else in the way of removing the upper intake plenum. Some of the electrical connectors have a red tab. Pull these tabs towards the wiring harness about 1/8” to unlock the connector. Push down on the tab black or grey tabs, then push the connector in a tad, then remove. Don’t try to force it.

Remove the PCV vent hoses from the upper plenum, there should be two of them. There might be funky dual clamps on some hoses, and the hoses might be stubborn. The nipples they go to are an inch and a quarter long.

Remove the two 10mm bolts on either side of the EGR valve. Don’t move the EGR valve, and don’t mess up the gasket.

Remove the 8mm bolts holding the upper plenum to the intake. Go around under the EGR valve and find/remove two more 8mm bolts securing the back of the upper plenum to a bracket. Don’t forget about the one long 8mm bolt that’s on top, in the center of the plenum.Now the plenum should be free.

The wiring connectors removed previously will interfere, it’s ok to move them down and out of the way. Lift the upper plenum straight up and position it so you can see the 3 rear coil packs. The plenum doesn't have to come off completely, just out of the way.

Unplug the electrical connector off the coil pack(s). Do one at a time, or all three, it’s hard to mess up. I find it better to do one spark plug at a time.

Remove the 8mm bolt holding each coil pack. Pull the coil pack up and out. Don’t bend it.

Check that the plug boot still has some clear silicone dielectric grease (not heat sink compound!) in it. Verify the coil packs have a spring in the center, if not, find the spring. Clean any condensation.

Blow out the spark plug well with compressed air, and remove the spark plug. This takes a 9/16th spark plug socket (that has the rubber grommet inside to keep the plug in the socket) and a six inch straight, no wobble extension.

Check the gap on the new spark plugs, platinums should not require tweaking. Conventional plugs should be gapped to .048", platinums to .054, but verify with the EPA label on your Escape.

Install the new spark plug, torque to 11 lb-ft. Or, seat the plug and give it another 16th of a turn. Don’t cross thread, and don’t force it if it doesn’t want to go. Remove, reposition, and try again. If they won't screw in using your fingers, stop and see why not. Cross threading the plug and/or forcing it will result in expensive remachining of the spark plug hole.

Reinstall the coil pack onto the new plug. In this version of the3.0 V6, it’s really hard to screw this up because of the way the coil pack assembly smoothly fits into the plug hole, but ensure the coil pack drops straight down and ends up flush with the valve cover. Remember the spring? The coil pack will push up out of the hole a bit if it’s right. If the coil pack is cocked, pull out and reposition.

Reinstall the coil pack bolt, then reconnect the electrical connector to the coil pack. Repeat for the remaining holes.

Inspect the upper plenum silicone seal, which is a green 6-hole seal. If you were careful, it should have remained in place. If it evenly protrudes a mm or two out of its groove, you’re good. If torn or mashed down flat with the upper plenum gasket surface, replace the seal.

Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the intake manifold to make sure that you don't damage the seal. Check the fit of the EGR valve and gasket, and avoid dragging across the EGR gasket. It must be flat without folds or dog ears. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 lb-ins.

Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.

Get your tools out of the engine bay. Check that all connectors were reattached, and that they clicked when pushed in all the way. Verify all vacuum hoses are back in place. Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected for safety.

Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks. It should go straight to a 12-1300 rpm idle with no surging or stuttering. Let it run for a bit, and the idle should gradually decrease, settleing to 600-800 rpm after the temp gage moves up off the peg. If this is all true, congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about all the money you just saved.

OTOH: If the idle is surging, stuck low or high, is rough, or if the check engine light comes on, double-check your electrical and vacuum connections. If the idle quality is poor and a hissing or whistling sound is heard, the upper plenum gasket might be out of position. Squirt some plastic-safe carb cleaner around the mating surface of the upper plenum and intake manifold. Any changes in idle while squirting the carb cleaner indicates a problem with the plenum gasket at the squirt spot. If nothing obvious, read the code(s). 2011-later will diagnose misfire (plug or coil pack/connector issue). Any disconnected electrical part will throw it's own specific code, leading you to the problem.

Please feel free to make any amendments. Sorry I didn't take pictures.