Interesting! Where do you buy an external ballast resistor? Are there different sizes/strengths/resistance levels? Any details on this would be helpful. I take you you run the 12 volt wire to the resistor, and then run a wire off of the other end to the coil? Do you have any pictures of this setup?

 

You can wire one in any where you want where the pink wire is running now if you want. It goes from the switch to where the wire from the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid meets it. Then the 3rd wire of the "T" continues on to the coil. But I wouldn't suggest it. There is a reason Ford switched from an external ballast resister to the pink resister wire in 1960. Namely RELIABILITY. Chrysler kept using them for decades after that. Guys back in the day used to keep a spare one in their glove boxes once they got tired of getting stranded. Parts men from the Pentastar brigade sold TONS of them.

 

Earlier Fords had a bullet connector that tapped into the pink wire right at the ignition switch. The dang connector is a size not often found anymore? .18" I think. Not in my box of junk anymore anyway. When I installed a Pertronix Ignitor I bypassed that, and run a heavy gauge wire straight to the coil for fulltime battery voltage when running.

I thought about maybe mounting an external ballast wirewound on the firewall, just in case the Ignitor module ever dies somewhere more remote, and need to use points again. I think an easier solution is to carry a 3 ohm ignition coil, no need for an external ballast then. The classic Bosch blue is supposed to be pretty good.

 

If you google "ballast resistor" you'll find that all auto parts stores carry them. Jeff told the right way to wire them. They're all 1.5 ohms.

 

That's not quite the case.
Many of the items on the Instrument Cluster expect less than +12VDC.
Also, (at least for 1970), if you cut the pink wire, make sure you do not cut the blue wire connected to it.

 

Hi SoCal, What happens when the carb? gets vapor lock? I have had problem starting my warm engine but after it cooled down and turning over and over awhile it always cranked up, I recently put a thicker gasket under the carb, but I haven't cranked the motor in 10 years and I'm preparing to crank it hoping my warm/hot engine starting is fixed.

 

Well.im not a expert I just learned from reading the forums on here and elsewhere here's what I found today's fuel is different than back in the day it's boiling point is less than what it was my numbers might be off but as low as 140 degrees today gas can boil , Ford made the fuel pump without a return line to the tank that can be done I'm sure there is you tube on it and there are pumps will the return back to the tank that helps vapor lock alot .
Yes it will get hot fuel turns to vapor then it won't start untill it Cooks off I seen guys run spacers under the carb also wrap heat shield around the bowl and fuel lines metal lines don't help vapor lock one guy told me he carried a can of either to shoot some down the carb just enough to get it to start when he locked up . My solution was to install a external elec fuel pump Holly right below the gas tank worked for me no more vapor lock I used the smaller one only 4psi so I did not need a regulator it flows 25 gph there is a 34 gph 7 psi but I had no issues with the 4 psi wot cruising with the 390 and a500 cfm 2bbl if I ran a 4 I would go up to the 34gph pump I had same issue I could not get it started after it got hot .

 

Did you remove the Water plate under the carb?

Also I am guessing you hook up that elec gas pump to a hot side of the key switch to turn on and off?

 

Yes I have 2 tanks the main was easier but I have it at the aux tank my main was dirty and the tube sucked air that's another deal there if that tube rust through with a pin hole wherever it is once the gas goes below it , it will suck air I had my dash out so I ran the hot through the hole in the side behind the dash up and over under the headliner that also was out you can run it under the mat / carpet it was pretty easy I had it to my keyed switch but I'm also running a elec fan so I have it to the big 12v wire yellow to a toggle switch so it don't lose volts when the fan comes on the big yellow is from the battery it's always hot but a keyed switch hot 12 will work too .

 

It's a Ca truck it didn't have one no smog or heaters etc it had a big alum spacer on it when I bought it 2bbl it's alum they used that to run the Holly carb since the pump is underneath the bowl .

 

Does that Big Alum. Spacer have the vacuum hook-up for the brake booster? If not, where does the brake booster hookup?

So basically the Gas boils out of the carb causing pressure back-up into the gas line?

I am sure that I tried everything to get my 390 started, turning the distributor, putting gas/starting fluid into the carb, I even had the top of the carb off so I could see into the bowl, I don't remember if the bowl was empty or not don't remember that part. Nothing worked except waiting for the truck to cool down. I did hear someone say that the accelerator valve?? could leak thus draining the gas out of the carb., not sure that applies to all carbs, not sure if it would flood the truck either.

 

It turns into a vapor from the pump to the line and in the bowl at times but mostly in the pump when it turns to vapor in the pump it will no longer pump so it stops working it won't suck it from the tank it loses it's prime . Then after it cools off it will start pumping again gas in liquid form if it turns to vapor in the canister of the fuel pump it will stop working the pumps without the canister are better like from jegs or summit there's a filter inside there it can be replaced I heard some take it out . You can take the line off we're it says outlet at the pump put a longer gas line into a bucket crank engine see if gas is going into the bucket if it's not there's the problem I don't like that style pump when I bought my truck the diaphragm was bad on it and it was pumping gas into the motor were it bolts in it washed out the motor with gas leaks everywere that's why I chose to have it rebuilt and ditched that mechanical fuel pump . The brake booster can go to a port on the intake for vacum it's on the passenger side toward the rear of the intake most carbs have a big vacum port behind it that's were I put mine on the carb rear port and put my trans hose to the intake port I will take pics tommorow for you show you how it looks .

 

Hey I have an idea for you on those that gas line with the holes. JB Weld makes a quick Epoxy that sets up in 6 minutes. Looks just like the old JB Weld except it sets faster. If you sand those lines where they have the holes with a gritty sand paper and apply this JB weld it will solve your problem. Once it sets it is virtually indestructible and gas and oil proof, I've used it to piece back together Kitchen bowls , even microwave proof.

They also have that JB Weld stick that you pull off a piece and rub together with your fingers then stick on, that might work also.

 

I don't know if my main tank had that problem but I tell ya my truck would not run with that mechanical pump on there at all I couldn't even get it started is yours a camper special ? With the gas tank selector valve ? Mine was off the settings we're wrong the plate said off main aux what I thought was off was main etc I bypassed the 50 year old valve and just run the aux tank it's bigger by 4 gallons or so that valve screwed me up too I ran the gas hose right out of the aux tank capped off the lines to the valve today there's gas everywere in 69 on the hwy you needed those 2 tanks . As far as the excellertor pump in the front of the carb in a previous post you said if you go to the engine bay and push the throttle linkage by had you should here it squirting gas into the carb every time you move it back and forth with truck off . If you don't you bowl is empty you can take air cleaner off and look in when your moving throttle linkage back and forth and you should see it squirting inside if not and you hear air there's no gas in your float bowl a truck that sat for 10 years I would expect carb issues need rebuild new fuel pump etc that rubber drys up with corn gas .

 

Yes mine is a Camper Special with the Valve, personally I haven't looked at the selector valve to see if it is hooked up. The aux tank has been removed so all I have is the main tank.

I never had any problems getting gas to the engine always cranked up and ran then when I shut it off it was very very difficult to get it to crank when it was still hot. As I mentioned I tried multiple things including spraying ether or gas in the Carb. which still did not crank it, maybe I didn't put enough in it or what I put in evaporated instantly.

Never thought of just listening for the gas to squirt but I know what your talking about. Will try that.

Since the truck has sat for 10 years I suppose I am expecting the carb to need a rebuild, however, I know I have left trucks sit 5 years and they cranked and ran ok after a bit.

New Fuel pump is probably a good idea considering the possibility of Gas getting into the engine, Don't know if the new pumps can leak into the block like the old ones, But will go ahead and replace the Fuel Pump considering they are pretty cheap maybe $20.00.

Probably put carb rebuild on my list also. Have to check and see which carb I have, I am thinking it is stock carb, can you tell by looking at it or do I need to look for a tag? I have a few pictures of the carb on my "1969 Ford F-250 Explorer Camper Special 390 Edelbrock Performer" thread. I suppose I could rebuild it myself, but I have a friend who will rebuild it for $30 or $40. he is an expert.