I borrowed my son's truck to go to a concert last week, and it was too tall to fit in the parking garage, so I had to park on the street downtown. Worried about it getting stolen (it's a nice truck), I decided to pull the fuel pump fuse. Couldn't see well at night and pulled three fuses before I got the right one. Came out of the show, put the fuse back, and when I started it, the dash gauges don't work, and as I drove, it would rhythmically bog down, like it was running out of gas, about every 6 seconds. I nursed it home, bogging every 6 seconds the whole way.

Got time to look at it today. It wouldn't start because the batteries were low - not sure what would have drained them. I've checked every fuse and they're all good. Swapped relays around and nothing changed. I haven't tried to drive it, but after charging a few minutes on Boost mode, it did start. Still no dash gauges (gas, temps, oil) . The dash does light up with the headlights.

Got someone coming to look at buying it this weekend and need to make those gauges work and it to quit bogging (if it hasn't already). What else can I check besides the fuses? What could I have done by simply removing fuses and trying to crank it? Maybe taking that fuse out and cranking pumped air in, and that's the bog, but it didn't stop after the 15 mile trip home. I'll go drive it now to see.

 

Still bogging every 6 seconds. Also, the tach and boost gauges don't work. Pretty sure the speedo works, I only rev-ed it, but it worked driving home last week).

 

Also, it bogs every 6 seconds no matter what speed/rpm.

 

Did you go back and confirm each fuse you pulled was put back in the proper spot?
Checked them all for continuity?

 

No, and I wondered whether I did get them in the right spots in the dark. But, checking it today, there's no empty slots along the bottom row where I was pulling them out. And looking at the fuse diagram, the ones that I'm thinking control the instrument panel are all the right amperage. To check continuity (I hate electrical issues), is that just putting a test light on each contact point on the top of the fuse to make sure it lights up? I pulled them all and pushed them back in good, but I'll check that in the morning.

 

Shouldn't said "no empty, functioning slots"

 

Post what it is and I will get the right PDF up for you.

 

Thanks, Sean. I found the right fuse diagram on an old post here, and I checked the ones that seem to be related to the instrument panel for proper amperage. About to go check for continuity.

 

I think I fixed the problem. In the dark, I pulled out #45 fuse and put it back in #43.