I have an 02 F250 with a 7.3 Powerstroke. It blew a #45 fuse last week and of course the truck went into limp mode and the cluster stopped working. I found the common short in the Shifter wiring and replaced the Shifter unit and fuse. After I replaced the shifter unit, the OD cut off switch still doesn't work and the truck cut off again today under normal driving conditions. I let it set 10 minutes and it fired up and ran fine. When I got home, I shifted into park and the truck cut off again. Could the new shifter Unit be bad, (Not Likely), or is there another common problem in the column I need to hunt.

 

That could be your IPR going bad, they quit when they get warm when they're going south. Next time try cooling it with water or spray air and see if it helps. If it does that's probably your culprit.

 

I've had these symptoms with a bad IPR once before. I replaced it 4 years ago and it fixed the cutting off issues. And I would say it's the IPR again if the new shifter I just installed was working properly. I still believe I've got a short in the column somewhere. I will try the water cooling trick. Thanks for the reply!

 

My OD switch kills my fuse (and throttle) when pressed. I just don't ever use it and carry extra fuses for those times it gets bumped.

Like was mentioned occasional dieing can be the IPR when it gets hot - I've had that happen too.
It could possibly something in the steering column. Did it EVER die before you worked on the column? Try starting it while it is still cool and jostle the steering column to see if it dies. Troubleshooting 2 problems at once is hard to do.

 

See if one of these threads is helpful for either of you for fixing the OD issue as the info could point out something that was overlooked:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10816430

https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...attredirects=1

 

Ive never had an issue with it cutting off til it started blowing the fuses. That's why I'm saying it's a short and not the IPR bc the OD switch still isn't working even with a new shifter unit installed. BUT, I'm with you guys, it does show IPR issue symptoms. Ha

 

Just out of curiosity, what happens if you disconnect that OD off wire?

 

Hmm...Not sure. I haven't ran it like that. I guess I could try it. Think it will throw a code or cause an open loop?

 

I know that it will not.

 

Ok, I will try it and see. If I can eliminate the shifter maybe it will show me something or at least throw a code if some kind. Thanks a Ton!

 

Alright boys and girls I've got it whipped. The new shifter wasn't working right bc my dumba$$ didn't push the plug together all the way. As for the cutting off issue, Plugged it in and the truck would not perform an injector pulse test. The Injector Control Module Relay was lose inside the fuse panel. Bent the pins with a pick, got a better connection, and bravo...It's fixed. Thanks to everyone who commented. Hopefully my 7.3 will run a while longer now. Hope this helps someone else out.

 

I replaced my shifter lever after no OD disconnect 3 yrs ago. Bought a Dorman. Recently, OD switch went out again. Blue wire sheared. Replace yesterday with an OEM shifter from Mexico. Notice an additional wire clamp that helped rout the wire. Also decided to put some 1/8" corragated with loom around the wires.
Pay the few extra $ for the OEM one.

 

I successfully repaired the broken wire in my original shifter. It was a very delicate process that took a lot of time. I confirmed continuity through the repaired wire splice, was quite proud of myself for not having to buy an entire new shifter assembly just to repair a tiny little wire, when the lever and the switch itself were a all perfectly good.

After I reinstalled the original shifter assembly that I repaired, I was very careful to reroute the wires in such a way as to avoid any rubbing or chaffing, which is what shorted out the wire in the first place. With my new and "improved" wire routing in place, I immediately tested the overdrive on off function before putting the steering column housing back on, and everything worked perfectly.

Then I shifted to 1rst so that I could fit the column cover on more easily. Anyone who has done this repair should be laughing hysterically right about now.

Yep, shifting to first gear RIPPED the wires in a new place, deep inside the shifting lever tube.

I had to pull the shifter off the truck again, only to find that the new wire break was not accessible from either end of the shifter assembly, even with the O/D switch pulled out as far as possible. So much for spending time to save money. I ended up buying an entire new shifter assembly from Ford, and this time routed the wires in the exact same way as originally equipped, once again vulnerable to abrading. But I did wrap the wires at the abrasion points with a sacrificial loom, which hopefully will delay future failure until I am no longer able to drive.

The moral of the story is, even when a new or newly repaired shifter assembly is obtained, it can be instantly ruined in the installation process, which could lead one to believe that the new part was defective, especially when the point of failure is not visible within the shifter lever tube. I'm not saying that is what happened to the OP. I am saying that is what happened to me, and it could happen to any future searcher seeking solutions to a similar (and very common) problem with these trucks.

 

Man, half way through reading that I busted out laughing. 😂 Those shifters are just a bad design. But, I did get 16 years and 200,000 miles out of the truck before I had an issue. So, with that being said, it's paid for and 80$ here and there doesn't bother me. Beats the heck out of a 700$ a month payment. JS. Thanks for the reply!