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Spark Plugs: Best '89 5.0 302 choice

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  #16  
Old 05-23-2018, 09:59 PM
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Just use the Motorcraft ASF-42C
gap them at 032-046 as the specs call for and you will be fine..

Its not like you will be taking it to the drag strip. With the 5.0 engine is is more like, I'm just gonna mozy over yonder!
 
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  #17  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:00 AM
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So I changed the plugs, leads, and distributor cap/rotor Sunday! I hope this helps with starting in damp conditions as it had trouble doing so on occasion. T

The cap looked corroded and the original spark plug leads were still in use, it said 1989 on them. I should have taken a photo of the spark plugs, but most of them were rusted above the threads and had white build up around the end. some had a little black around the insulation.

corroded original distributor cap


new lines on right side #1,2,3,4.....#1  sucked to change!!





original spark plug leads from 1989
 
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2018, 12:52 PM
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The new cap have brass terminals or aluminum ? Brass lasts longer.
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:56 PM
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the new cap has brass terminals
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:55 PM
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Wires look like Accell, If you have issues with them, try Ford Racing's 9mm wires. I've run two vans with them and found they out last the O.E wires and the cost doesn't hurt either ($40 a set)
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 04:11 PM
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If you have it all open then you might want to check how the wires are routed. There is what is known as induction crossfire.
There was a TSB from Ford about his.
induction crossfire.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ep...ug_routing.pdf

I am going to have to go back and check mine one day as I was in a hurry when I tuned mine up a couple of years ago. There are several articles on the internet about this. keep in mind that this is 1983 - 1993...
 
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh View Post
If you have it all open then you might want to check how the wires are routed. There is what is known as induction crossfire.
There was a TSB from Ford about his.
induction crossfire.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ep...ug_routing.pdf

I am going to have to go back and check mine one day as I was in a hurry when I tuned mine up a couple of years ago. There are several articles on the internet about this. keep in mind that this is 1983 - 1993...

Thanks! Ill have to check this out, im pretty sure i put 7 next to 8!!

Any other pointers while i have the dogbox open?? Maybe how to degrease or not degrease certain area. Can i use a stainless steel hand brush to clean the metal ?
 

Last edited by wcwinans; 06-11-2018 at 05:44 PM. Reason: forgot something
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  #23  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:30 PM
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You are doing great learning how to work on your van though! IF you look up at the pic of the wires in the holder you posted, you will see that #7 and #8 were separated from the factory. I used NAPA Beldin wires on mine that were supposed to be "exact fit" but of course most of them were way too long.
My did had a garage in the early 70's and I remember we made all the wires ourselves back then. Wires today are made a little different but you can still make your own or cut the new ones to length. I am going to buy a set of crimpers to do this and shorten mine the next time i take the dog house cover off..
Did you remove at least one of your front seats before you removed the dog house? My seats have just 4 bolts holding the seats to the pedestal and so I removed both seats the last time i worked on mine..WOW what a difference that made....

I separated 7 and 8 on mine but like I said there was way to much slack so I had to tie wrap the wires away from anything hot.. #2 and #4 also need to be separated and I dont think I did that properly. IF I remember it was quite the task to just remove and install the new ones as they run under the plenum. I should have fixed that when I had the upper plenum off but forgot to!

As what to change while you have the dog house off?
I wold defiantly replace the PCV valve and grommet. The PCV valve just pulls out of the grommet and the grommet may take a little more work especially if it has hardened over the years but it will come out. I would recommend Motorcraft parts for both as mine whistled a little when I replaced it with a AZ brand the first time. It didn't fit the grommet correctly



The Fuel Pressure Regulator,, Though not mandatory at all, I replaced mine simply because it has a rubber diaphragm in it and was 30 years old. Again I would order a Motorcraft one if possible. Pretty easy to change just release the fuel pressure before removing it so gas wont spray all over the place. .



And BTW here is your Fuel Pressure Test Port in case you ever need to check the fuel pressure



The only other thing I can think of to do while under the dog house is think about the PVC hose re-route.. Ford was having trouble with cylinder #8 and determined it was because the PCV valve was connected at the end of the upper plenum.
Here is a thread about this.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-warning.html

There are several ways to do this. The original instructions were to remove the upper plenum, drill a hole in it in the center, and install a new fitting for the PCV hose to connect to. In my case I just went to Home Depot and bought a brass tee with barbs on it, cut the line to the brake booster and installed the tee. I then added some 3/8" vacuum line from the PCV valve to the tee in the brake booster line. I then capped off the old PCV line connection on the back of the plenum.
Teh link above tells about the problem with the gunk freezing in the brake booster line. I tie wrapped the booster line up high so the gunk could not run back down towards the booster and would naturally flow down towards the vacuum tree under the plenum.

What sounds like a better method to me (read about it later) is to just swap the two connections. Connect the brake booster line to where the PCV valve is connect now on the back of the plenum and connect the PCV hose to the vacuum port under the upper plenum where the brake booster is connected not.

Do a search on TSB ford 5.0 pcv reroute and you will find a good bit of info on this. This was 30 years ago so its not as common to run across now..



As to cleaning the engine while you have the dog house off,,, IT looks like you have a rubber mat where as mine has carpet... I took my van to the spray car wash. First I used the tire/engine cleaner setting anc cleaned under the van around the engine and transmission. NExt I raised the hood and did the same being careful not to get any electrical connections wet. I wrapped a few of them with plastic and just didnt spray too close to them. Be careful around the distributor.

I was selective about where I sprayed the engine de-greaser. I used a couple of old sheets and made kinda like a tent around the dog house opening to word through with the spray wand to keep the water and grease from spraying all over the inside of the van.

You can detail a bet better with de-greaser, a set of small brushes, and perhaps a water hose with a good adjustable sprayer onit.. Just stay away from electrical parts and connectors as much as possible. Some of the stuff you can just wipe down by hand. Carb cleaner works great but there is debate on it causing aluminum to choroid. I have used it on mine and rinsed it off immediately.

You are probably going to have to replace those valve cover gaskets. I did it last summer and it was a bit involved but you can handle it... I can give you some tips on that when you get ready. The upper plenum/intake has to come off to get to the passenger side valve cover so it will be a good day or 2 project. .. It took me about a month but I didn't work on it for several days at a time and also replaced several parts while I was at it so I wouldn't have to worry about them later on. I always use Motorcraft parts when i can... I used Felpro valve cover gaskets and wish I had bought motorcraft ones because even the $50 felpro gaskets leaked and of course on the passenger side. It appears to have stopped leaking though after a month or so. Perhaps they seated themselves in after heating up a few times.

BTW what are the two switches for where the radio normally goes?
 
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  #24  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:17 AM
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I'll have to read more about the latter part of your last reply before i start down that road (phlenum and valve cover gaskets). In my manual it says that around 60k mi a ford service center will replace the pcv value free of charge. I called around and had alot of people confused and got told off a couple times, but finally got someone who did a bit of digging around and found the program to be still active/valid if it was the original. They said they would do it, then called back a couple of days later ad said that they would have to charge me a small fee for the price of the part. I might let them do it or i may not.

Also Yes, I currently have the passenger seat out, i am working on retro fitting it to a swivel base captains chair i pulled from a 78 ford at the junk yard. It's turning out to be a little more troublesome than anticipated. Thanks though for the complement on working on the vehicle, I feel like i know a tiny bit now. I took a quick shot of the spark plugs i removed here. Ill have to find the other ones to upload, but I think they look like normal wear?



spark plugs removed, mostly from #1,2,3,4
Also I hvae no radio in the van ... the switches are for lights on the top and rear of the van, it was an engineering van for the city of dayton, OH. I heard it was the old carpenter's van, but i dont have a solid history.

top left orange strobe light


top corners have red flashing lights
 
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Old 06-13-2018, 01:16 PM
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Don't know why you'd go to the dealer to get the PCV valve changed. Whole lotta trouble for a $5 part that takes a few minutes to change. Those plugs look normal, just a lotta miles on them. Proof positive that they'll fire with more than a .044 gap.
 
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  #26  
Old 06-13-2018, 02:53 PM
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I understand on the valve covers. A good mechanic with all the tools in a shop would have it in and out in a day but they would only be replacing the valve cover gaskets.
I did a bit more since I was doing the work and time was not money... I took the throttle body loose from the plenum and cleaned the inside of the plenum, cleaned the throttle body, idle air control valve, new throttle position sensor, cleaned and painted the valve covers, and cleaned the intake with a vacuum and brush. There was a couple of little spots of rust on the van where the dog house cover seal fits on the lip so I cleaned, treated, primed and painted those. But again I had plenty of time. i only replaced the EGR and TPS because they are hard to do with the plenum in place and were 30 years old. The EGR valve has a rubber diaphragm in it. It might have been good for years to come but I thought, well I am here so why not..


Thanks for the info on Ford changing the PCV valve, I had no idea anything was still covered on these older vans! The Motorcraft PCV valve is part # EV140 and you can find them all day for around $10. Keep in mind if Ford replaces it, they will have to remove the doghouse cover to do it. A lot of people just use a little cleaner, shake it around, and rinse it out. The newer ones are a plastic type material and I don’t know how they handle the cleaners.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCV-Valve-M...75.c1#viTabs_0

I have swivel seats in mine but it is a conversion van. I want to modify mine so they can be unbolted from inside the van but the van converter installed the base first and then 3/4“ plywood over top covering up the bolts. There are generic van swivel bases. You unbolt the seat from the factory base and install a swivel on top. it will raise the seat about an inch though.

Yes you are doing great. Just keep taking your time, ask questions, read and learn, and in no time you will loose any hesitations in your ability’s..

The spark plugs have been in there a long time and look like they have a few miles on them but to me look pretty good as far as indications that the engine is doing good.
That #1 up under the alternator was fun wasn’t it?

That step bumper at the rear makes it so much easier getting in and out the rear of the van. Wish I had one! Perhaps that beautiful (Husky ?) that has found a new house too!

Radio,, I have been looking at some single din radios that have a built in screen for use with a back up camera and bluetooth for hands free phone.. I don’t know if the screen would be large enough though. The ones that have the pop out screen, I have read they break after a while..

One last thing to suggest while you have the dog house cover off, it can be done from the front though, that is check the engine running vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Checking the vacuum can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine. Its quick and easy to do.
You can buy a vacuum gauge at harbor freight for $14 and cheaper if you use their 20% off coupon...

Here is a easy page to start off with learning what some of the gauge readings mean.. There are many more but hopefully you will find that your engine vacuum is steady between 15 to 22 hg...
Vacuum Gauge is an Invaluable Tool when Diagnosing Engine Problems
 
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