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1995 F-350 Dully CrewCab

  #1  
Old 05-21-2018, 11:01 AM
kinetic29
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1995 F-350 Dully CrewCab

Hello, Everyone. About a year ago I picked up from my Uncle a new to me 1995 F-350. I've honestly barley used the thing and its got a couple of issues that id' like to have taken care of on it. I'm hopping you guys could point me in the right direction.


* Following issue list*

- Fuel Tank Switch for Tanks appears to be broken. (Looking for information on the steps i can take to trouble shoot why this is not switching tanks)
-Turn Signals Stay Solid On do not flash what so ever.
-Rear Window Regulators Switch on door panels doesn't seem to work for the rear windows and they fall down. and seem to be off track. (looking for good documentation - any DIY posts on this)

*To do List / Could use some input*
-Oil Change ( recommendation for filters / Oil weight and Type)
-Fluid Flush in General.
- or any to dos for a truck thats been sitting for a long period of time.


Any links you guys could provide me for details would be so highly appreicated.

I know with much searching i could probably find this information but. You form experts hopefully can help me get to what im looking for far faster.

 
  #2  
Old 05-21-2018, 11:26 AM
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knottyrope
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turn signals could be a bad flasher unless using LED lights and then you need a resistor

big oil filter if you don't like the Ford one
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...il-filter.html

I use Rotella 15-40 but oil can be a fun subject to talk about with opinions
 
  #3  
Old 05-21-2018, 12:46 PM
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https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...l?cm_vc=-10005 and a coolant filter would be good. Flush the brakes, I LOVE my Motive Bleeders. No having to have a bud pump it. Oil is a hot topic, just run 15W40 or 5W40 Diesel rated at least.

Check that crank balancer for delamination. Maybe a fan belt. Idler pulleys if never done...vacuum pump too.


That stack hurts my eyes. Truck looks very nice otherwise!
 
  #4  
Old 05-21-2018, 01:03 PM
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Fuel switch: if your in cab switch is bad, that's not a big deal. They're readily available on Amazon or any auto parts store. If it's the valve on the frame rail, you're in for an expensive time. Steer clear of aftermarket ones since they have a very bad reputation for failing soon after installation. I think I paid almost 500 for mine at the dealership when mine went out.

Oil: I run Traveller's 15-40 from tractor supply. $45/5gal bucket when it's on sale. However, every truck is different. There was another user that tried that same oil and it made his truck run like crap. In mine, it idles just as smooth with Rotella T6 (20/gal) as it does with the cheapy stuff.

Windows: Only way to see the issue here is pulling the door panels to see what is missing or broken. Could be the actuator arm is broken (happened on my truck before I bought it), or the window motors could be gone or have stripped gears. Hard to tell without putting eyes on it.

Good luck and update with progress!! that looks like a nice rig.
 
  #5  
Old 05-21-2018, 01:15 PM
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Does the fuel gauge move when the fuel selector switch is move from front to back tank? If not, the fuse could be blown. I would start there. It is fuse # 6 in the in cabin fuse panel. That fuse also protects the AC clutch. You should be able to hear a faint zipping sound from the selector valve when you switch from one tank to the other if it is working. The selector valve is located in the drivers side frame rail near the rear of the cab. The valves can stick and not let the internals in valve move to switch from one tank to the other, and a different valve is the fix.
 
  #6  
Old 05-21-2018, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by farmert View Post
Does the fuel gauge move when the fuel selector switch is move from front to back tank? If not, the fuse could be blown. I would start there. It is fuse # 6 in the in cabin fuse panel. That fuse also protects the AC clutch. You should be able to hear a faint zipping sound from the selector valve when you switch from one tank to the other if it is working. The selector valve is located in the drivers side frame rail near the rear of the cab. The valves can stick and not let the internals in valve move to switch from one tank to the other, and a different valve is the fix.



The fuel gauge does not move when i switch form tank to tank! very appreciative of that tip. I've also noticed the ac was working but doesnt seem to be as of late. I will check the fuse when I get home today.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell View Post
Fuel switch: if your in cab switch is bad, that's not a big deal. They're readily available on Amazon or any auto parts store. If it's the valve on the frame rail, you're in for an expensive time. Steer clear of aftermarket ones since they have a very bad reputation for failing soon after installation. I think I paid almost 500 for mine at the dealership when mine went out.

Oil: I run Traveller's 15-40 from tractor supply. $45/5gal bucket when it's on sale. However, every truck is different. There was another user that tried that same oil and it made his truck run like crap. In mine, it idles just as smooth with Rotella T6 (20/gal) as it does with the cheapy stuff.

Windows: Only way to see the issue here is pulling the door panels to see what is missing or broken. Could be the actuator arm is broken (happened on my truck before I bought it), or the window motors could be gone or have stripped gears. Hard to tell without putting eyes on it.

Good luck and update with progress!! that looks like a nice rig.
Well I really hope it's not that valve! I'll take apart the door panels and give you guys an update to see what it is. Thanks I do like the truck alot.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...l?cm_vc=-10005 and a coolant filter would be good. Flush the brakes, I LOVE my Motive Bleeders. No having to have a bud pump it. Oil is a hot topic, just run 15W40 or 5W40 Diesel rated at least.

Check that crank balancer for delamination. Maybe a fan belt. Idler pulleys if never done...vacuum pump too.


That stack hurts my eyes. Truck looks very nice otherwise!

I have to 2 Foot the break pedal. You just made me realize that I think that vacuum pump could be the issue i just thougtht they were really stiff.


As for the stack Thats my uncles work. I'm not fond of losing the bed space but don't want to take the time to reroute it back to stock.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by knottyrope View Post
turn signals could be a bad flasher unless using LED lights and then you need a resistor

big oil filter if you don't like the Ford one
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...il-filter.html

I use Rotella 15-40 but oil can be a fun subject to talk about with opinions
I


It dosen't have any LED lights she's mostly stock other then the exhaust So i will deff try the relay.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:36 PM
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Also to note if any one has any input it has as significant oil leak coming from the dipstick tube i'm not really sure how to trouble shoot this either.
 
  #11  
Old 05-21-2018, 02:17 PM
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top of tube should seal
were tube connects is an o ring
bung to pan is a PITA but you can try to reseal it using a wire brush to hold it and use ford gray RTV to seal it back up or get the nugget on ebay if you don't want to drop the pan which should be done with engine out

One user said it takes about 5 days for the oil to stop dripping inside the engine, so remove bung and let hang off the wire brush for a few days then reseal it.

nugget
https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3-Powerst...0AAOSwMNxXTyIH
 
  #12  
Old 05-21-2018, 03:31 PM
kinetic29
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Originally Posted by knottyrope View Post
top of tube should seal
were tube connects is an o ring
bung to pan is a PITA but you can try to reseal it using a wire brush to hold it and use ford gray RTV to seal it back up or get the nugget on ebay if you don't want to drop the pan which should be done with engine out

One user said it takes about 5 days for the oil to stop dripping inside the engine, so remove bung and let hang off the wire brush for a few days then reseal it.

nugget
https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3-Powerst...0AAOSwMNxXTyIH
Thank you so much! i actually am pretty sure that it's the Bung to Pan so i've also read about how awful it can be this Ebay item looks certianly like the way to go.
 
  #13  
Old 05-22-2018, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kinetic29 View Post
I have to 2 Foot the break pedal. You just made me realize that I think that vacuum pump could be the issue i just thougtht they were really stiff.
As for the stack Thats my uncles work. I'm not fond of losing the bed space but don't want to take the time to reroute it back to stock.


Booster could be bad too, but the vac pumps are so cheap... replace it now before it leaves you stuck. Vacuum Pump Alliant Power Stock Replacement Ford Powerstroke 1999-2003 7.3L That is the same one I got from Ford, for nearly $300 as I was stranded. Plus it will roach your belt if seizes up! Just replace most anything rubber you see to base line the truck unless you have the records...like brake hoses.

I just ordered that billet dipstick item actually from Full Force. Pretty solid. Since it will fix my issue and is resealable externally, it was worth the cash. Also looks like a snap to install.

Wait until November, you can probably ****** a new turbo back cheap due to sales. I think I paid about $300 shipped for my stainless Diamond Eye kit with tip from Thoroughbred. The rear hanger angle was garbage, I had to cut it off and reweld it. I can shoot you pics if you need to see it.

Is the truck chipped? Does it still have that factory squished downpipe?
 
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