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Sorry ,the link you sent was for fancy alternators. Not sure what the part was you were trying to show me.
Suffolkman
I think that you wanted a bracket that fits your Power Gen alternator? With pictures missing from Speedways website it is hard to see but brackets are toward the bottom of the page but no pictures.. You would have to call them. Note that on some of their Power Master alternators the bracket is built right into the front of the alternator or generator. The question is are Power Gen and Power Master the same?
Originally Posted by Suffolkman
I am looking at an original bracket next weekend. Hoping it will fit my Power Gen alternator. Which as I am sure you know resembles the original generator. If that does not come off I could contact you.
I have one but I see some others do also. As you can see here a PO modified it to fit a GM alternator. I think that I got it put back to original shape but the strap probably needs a little reshaping to fit your Power Gen.
I think that you wanted a bracket that fits your Power Gen alternator? With pictures missing from Speedways website it is hard to see but brackets are toward the bottom of the page but no pictures.. You would have to call them. Note that on some of their Power Master alternators the bracket is built right into the front of the alternator or generator. The question is are Power Gen and Power Master the same?
I have one but I see some others do also. As you can see here a PO modified it to fit a GM alternator. I think that I got it put back to original shape but the strap probably needs a little reshaping to fit your Power Gen.
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My alternator is stamped Powermaster and Power Gen. It looks like a standard old time generator. I am hoping it will fit in an OEM generator yoke.
For those that didn't see your post about the stud shearing and the fan tearing apart your radiator, they can find it here. I'm pretty sure you're correct that an OEM yoke will fit perfectly. If you wanted to know for sure, just measure the diameter or circumference and one of us could confirm my measuring an original. And to make it even easier for others to see what you're dealing with, here's the pic from the other thread:
For those that didn't see your post about the stud shearing and the fan tearing apart your radiator, they can find it here. I'm pretty sure you're correct that an OEM yoke will fit perfectly. If you wanted to know for sure, just measure the diameter or circumference and one of us could confirm my measuring an original. And to make it even easier for others to see what you're dealing with, here's the pic from the other thread:
I have just checked my Power Gen Alternator/Generator. The diameter of the outer case is approximately 5 1/8 inches.
I just measured a standard 35-amp Ford generator at 4.86". Not a lot of difference, the Ford mount would likely work (the bolt just wouldn't draw down as far). But your aluminum mount looks pretty sturdy, and was probably made for the Power Gen specifically. I doubt the mount was part of your problem.
Note also the Ford mount has a peg in it that locates the generator fore-aft and keeps it from spinning, does the Power Gen mount have something similar?
I just measured a standard 35-amp Ford generator at 4.86". Not a lot of difference, the Ford mount would likely work (the bolt just wouldn't draw down as far). But your aluminum mount looks pretty sturdy, and was probably made for the Power Gen specifically. I doubt the mount was part of your problem.
Note also the Ford mount has a peg in it that locates the generator fore-aft and keeps it from spinning, does the Power Gen mount have something similar?
Yes has the same dowel. I might be able to get hold of an original on Sunday.
Yes has the same dowel. I might be able to get hold of an original on Sunday.
Update, Have now borrowed an original Ford bracket. But as the Power Gen is that bit bigger it will not fit in to the yoke and connect to the dowel. I am going with the ali yoke. Without the addition of the mechanical fan and the second fanbelt, and the fact that the Power Gen is about a third of the weight of the original generator, all should be fine. Radiator back tomorrow...nearly there.
Update, the newly rebuilt radiator and fan are now installed and wired.Yesterday we fired up the truck and did about a 50 mile run.The weather was hot for the time of year here at around 25c. The temperature held on the gauge between 150 to 170F . It ran perfectly in fact. I think I will probably fit an override switch in the dash, just in case I get stuck in stationary traffic somewhere. At least then I can switch the fan on early to try and keep things nice & cool.
Update, the newly rebuilt radiator and fan are now installed and wired.Yesterday we fired up the truck and did about a 50 mile run.The weather was hot for the time of year here at around 25c. The temperature held on the gauge between 150 to 170F . It ran perfectly in fact. I think I will probably fit an override switch in the dash, just in case I get stuck in stationary traffic somewhere. At least then I can switch the fan on early to try and keep things nice & cool.
Do you have a thermistor relay? If so you really shouldn't need that switch . . . the thermistor relay will turn the fan on anytime the temp get up to where ever you set it. They are pretty reliable but if by some chance the fan does not come on it i easy enough to connect the two spade terminals with a paper clip. Make sure that you put a piece of tape over the clip and connectors to insulate it from a short circuit.
The radiator has a thermo switch fitted to the bottom tank.The switch is preset to turn on at 92c and off at 87c .It seems to be working fine. My thinking was if I were to get in to stationary traffic I could manually switch the fan on early just to be safe.
Update, the newly rebuilt radiator and fan are now installed and wired.Yesterday we fired up the truck and did about a 50 mile run.The weather was hot for the time of year here at around 25c. The temperature held on the gauge between 150 to 170F . It ran perfectly in fact. I think I will probably fit an override switch in the dash, just in case I get stuck in stationary traffic somewhere. At least then I can switch the fan on early to try and keep things nice & cool.
Are those temps on an aftermarket gauge with the sender in the stock location? If so, 150 - 170 is too cool, you won't boil off water in the oil very quickly, and will form sludge. If that is the lower tank temp, then that's OK. I would try for 180 at least at the thermostat housing. Is your fan switch adjustable?
Hi Ross, the truck runs a Dolphin dash insert with all new gauges. The sender unit looks new, and is on the drivers side I guess in the original location. The new thermo switch is set into the bottom tank of the radiator. As mentioned previously it is not adjustable, but is set to switch the fan on at 92 deg C and off again when the temperature falls to 87 C.
05-17-2018, 10:56 AM
