Through a family arrangement, my wife and I have taken over responsibility for a 2006 Class C RV with a Triton V10.

I know nothing about motor homes nor these big Ford motors. The only experience I have is with my 4.0 V6 in my 1992 Ranger which is still going strong..

I had a few questions about the V10.in this E450 RV.

It has sat for some time and will not start, probably because the battery is dead. I also don't believe much has been done in the way of maintenance on the motor, even though the inside of the RV is quite clean and nice.

I am told it has over 80K mostly highway miles which I am assuming is the case.

I have about 7 weeks before we would do any kind of camping trip with it.

Since I have no idea what kind of maintenance (if any) has been done on it, I was thinking of starting with that to set some kind of a baseline to work from.

I wonder what filters, components, fluids etc.I should inspect and/or replace to bring this motor up to reliable operation -- besides replacing the battery.

Unfortunately, we don't have the funds to have this repaired professionally. I'll just plug away at it a little at a time during the evenings when I have a few hours.

Also, is there anything that might be beyond that capability of the average DIY mechanic?

I haven't mentioned the automatic transmission or the diff but same question there: in terms of maintenance steps I should take?

Fortunately, there are no leaks anywhere underneath except for a few drops of yellow coolant on the steering stabilizer at the front of the vehicle.

It looks like an open ended task but hopefully I am starting early enough to get things going in time for our summer vacation.

Thanks

 

Oil, oil filter, and air filter if it's dirty. Plugs are probably still good at only 80k. There's really not much that goes wrong with the late model 2 valve V10's.

 

maticuno already got you covered. The only thing that I might add is fuel filter. But do that after you get it running again so that it doesn't introduce a variable into any issues you might come up with.

Keep us informed every step of the way! And take pics

 

autozone has a nice maint free battery that you might consider, also the coach will need battery (s) to operate correctly. Does it have a generator? If so you will probably need to replace the carburetor on it due to varnish from dried fuel. Check fuel line it comes from the main fuel tank. Flush to water system then drain all. Use bleach to clean the water tank about a cup per 15 gallons of water. Fill then flush the grey and black tanks also and be prepared for leaks at drain handles possibly at lines to toilet and sinks etc.

Depending on where it sat also look for chewed wired from rodents include the spark plug wires. go over to the rv sites and ask for help there, good sam sites will be best in reality but there are many, some even for whatever brand rv it is. Most will talk about the coach as they are not really good at mech stuff but think they are. Look for mold and water stains in the coach, also look for rodent issues (they like to rv also). http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...tings/forum/23

pm me if you have questions

hank

 

 

 

At 80K, I'd also have the front and rear brakes inspected.

 

Thanks for all the posts. I think it has sat for at least 6 months or so. I am going to try and jump start it next weekend using jumpers to the battery in my Ranger.

If it starts, I will let it run for a while. Brake fluid looks dirty and coolant overflow looks very discolored so maybe the coolant needs changing and there is also that small coolant leak to chase.

I think I going to start with the idea of getting the motor to run well first and then the rest of the drive line. Brakes and tires will be next.

After that, I will start on the RV stuff for which I have no clue. I guess I am in for a leaning experience there. I'll try and snap some pics along the way. Hopefully I don't run into anything too expensive!

 

 

I got a deal on a new Interstate battery for it. Changed oil/filter with 5-W20 as well as a new motorcraft air cleaner element (removed an over oiled K&N element I found in there). Topped up up the pressure on the tires.

It started up right away and ran really smoothly. It ran so well, I got a temporary moving permit for it. I filled up the empty tank with Chevron 91 and took it for the CA smog test. There was no Check Engine light on the dash so I assumed it would pass.

At the smog shop, I found out its GVWR was just over 14,000 lbs which means in needed a tailpipe test even though it was an OBDII vehicle newer than 2000.

The smog tech thought it was running well also but the tests indicated otherwise.




It seems it failed badly on the HC at 15mph.. I interpreted this to mean it was running way rich at low speed.but then well within the normal range at the 25mph test.

I wonder what could be going wrong on this computer controlled engine at the lower speed? It was running at least 3/4 tank of new gasoline and the tech let the engine run while I was waiting for the test so he said everything was good and hot at the time of the test.

Also, there was no CEL on the dash so the computer seems to be happy. I did see the CEL light up when I leave the ignition on the run position so I know the light works.

The tech also mentioned the V10 had an aftermarket Banks exhaust system installed for which I need to find an EO number.. The tech did say that the exhaust system seemed to be solid and was not the reason for the test failure.

I wonder if the smog test results are telling me what part I need to replace? It really runs very smoothly and I am surprised anything needs replacing.

Is it possible the software that runs the engine is missing an update? Is there some hidden diagnostic mode on the dash that I could trigger that might tell me something useful?

I am sure I could take it to a dealer to figure out but I don't have the budget for that right now. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Part of the problem was running the 91 octane. While these trucks will run on it, they aren't high performance - high compression engines that NEED it. Running 91 can actually cause excess hydrocarbon readings, especially at idle. Other problems could be failing O2 sensors or catalytic converter. You also mentioned you pulled an over-oiled K&N filter out. If it plugged up your MAF, that could throw off the air/fuel mixture.

I would recommend, in this order:
1) Dump a bottle of Techron (or similar P.E.A. containing fuel system cleaner) in the tank and run it near empty. Refill with 87 octane.
2) Clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body.
3) Check for intake/vacuum leaks while doing step 2, unmetered air can wreak havoc on the fuel curves.
4) Hook up a code reader, even if there is no activated CEL, and see if there is a stored/pending code.
5) Replace the upstream O2 sensors with a good quality (Denso, Motorcraft, etc.) part.

 

maticuno has you covered. I suspect a dirty MAF or some other issue with the plugs/coils needs to be cleared up. Excess hydrocarbons means the burn isn't complete.

Even though it's a 3-valve V10 that SHOULD be completely OBD-II, I have to ask: Are there O2 sensors after the catalytic converter(s) ???

 

 

I will add a can of BG44K to the remaining 91 octane and run it through and then replace with 87 Chevron.

I know from getting other cars through smog that the upstream sensor is the one to replace. I will get a Motorcraft one (or maybe two if it has two of them).

I will also try and clean the MAF and TB with CRC cleaner. Vacuum leaks are hard to find and I certainly don't hear one but it could be there. I will fix the easy things first.

Also, this is a 2V engine. From what I have been reading the newer 3V engines went into the pick-ups. It seems the van based RVs got the 2V engines.

I would think about replacing the plugs on any engine with these miles but it sounds like the job is not that simple on a 2V engine. What about the plug coils? Should they be replaced at 80?

On reading more about V10 issues, one post I read noted that the V10s in the RVs are unlike the pickups in that they are hauling a load all the time and that may mean their maintenance cycles might be different.

Do the 2V engines have an IAC valve or just a MAF sensor or perhaps both? I had solved some smog problems on my 92 Ranger by replacing the IAC.

The CA smog test is a PITA by all measures but I will say having lived here for many years that the air is way better now than back in the mid 80s. I guess it is one of the prices we have to pay having so many people in this area. I will just have to find a way to get this V10 through smog.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will give them a try over the weekend.

 

I think you're looking for CARB EO D-161-78 for the headers. Cat-back exhausts do dot require an EO number. If the catalytic converter has been replaced, the EO should be stamped on it if it was an aftermarket smog legal replacement or it will have the Ford PN if it was a ford replacement part.