Finally got out to it and noticed the IPR was unplugged. The plastic retainers have long broken off, so that rough start shook it loose... Plugged it back in and it started up without a hitch. Ordered a new harness.

 

I know everyone is dying for an update. I'd been waiting for the owner get the truck re-registered and plated since October. Went up to the shop today to toss the plates on and drive it home. I left my gate and garage remotes at my truck at my friend's house, so we ended up going there real fast to pick them back up.

So, first run on the highway and the truck makes NO boost. It won't get out of its own way. Turbo spools as you can hear it, but just no boost whatsoever. I've read that the factory boost gauge is junk and doesn't tell much. That's problem number one.

Besides like of boost, running at 65mph the truck did fine, hills obviously caused me to drop speed, having to drop a gear just to stay moving due to boostlessness. Not the end of the world, but I can find a resolution. Temps stayed consistent throughout the 15 minute drive to the house with no issues of any kind UNTIL we got to the house. Upon parking, suddenly a coolant sprang out of nowhere from somewhere near the waterpump. I haven't taken the time to look at it, I was disappointed and hopped in my truck and went home. I know I tightened all the hoses sufficiently, so I'm really wondering what this could be. Thermostat housing and temp sensor were both dry, so not the culprits either. I will pressurize the system with my mityvac and test for leaks.

I will say one other thing, the clutch pedal on these trucks is just... ugh, I don't like it. The ZF6 shifts through all the gears flawlessly and was a delight.

 

The entire hydraulic system can be purchased new from Ford to consist of; the clutch master, line and slave cylinder completely assembled with fluid and prebled if there are issues with clutch pedal feel.

 

It's hard to describe what it feels like. I doesn't feel like the clutch in my '96. It has that rusty spring grindy/crunchy feeling and sound do it too.

That's honestly the best way for me to describe it lol. I would replace it, but I'm just going to resolve the boost issue, swap the carpet, get the rear seats back in, fix that coolant leak, and then move on.

 

So the leak turned out to be a hose clamp that broke. Replaced with a new one and all is good. No leaks.

I've been opening up the truck when I drive it, and I've noticed some boost has returned, but I never reach 10psi, regardless of RPM. Max seems to be about 8, according to the factory gauge which is probably off anyway.

Suspecting the turbo needs to come off for a good cleaning, and likely pull the up-pipes too, to clean them as well. The truck is now here with me at the house, and I will be dailying it for the next few days while I sort out various remaining issues.

It certainly is a joy to drive... I've gotten used to the clutch pedal, and it's not as bad as I made it out to be.

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Considering all the work you have put in to this thing, I think you should buy it and return it to its former glory.

 

What's it worth, though? I've probably put close to $3500 in labor alone, with more on the horizon. That doesn't even take into consideration bodywork, AC components that are missing, etc.

I'm actually at my other office right now, and am driving this thing. Popped an EGR code P0401, but that's likely due to the delete. Another thing is that the hvac system dumps hot air into the cabin no matter what the temp wheel is on. Would like to get that resolved.

 

So switching to defrost has me hearing a vacuum pod clicking. I'm guessing fulltime heat issue is likely due to either a vacuum leak or a bust pod, or both. Will diagnose at some point.

 

Are you fixing this thing for someone else? Or fixing it, then going to possibly buy it. I would imagine that if someone was willing to let it sit and get in the shape it was in when you started, then it wasn't worth much to them in the first place. Could probably get a pretty good deal on it.

 

Right now I'm fixing it for someone else. We'll see.

Today I monitored boost and VGT duty cycle using torque pro. Max boost I saw was 7psi and VGT duty cycle was always between 15-85%. Turbo needs a good inspection.

Unfortunately, my time today with it was cut short when a caliper seized up just as I left the neighborhood. Had to bring it back home while enjoying the horrid smell baked brake pads. Rotor is probably glazed. It's off the road for now again until I can get that resolved.

 

I'm trying to get an accurate representation of the cost of the work I've done compared to the current value of the truck. I'm toying with the idea of getting it after all.

So far, here's what I've done:

• Replace CKP
• Test and Replace CMP
• Test and Replace ECT Sensor
• Replace missing VGT
• Replace missing EOP
• Replace missing Exhaust Pressure Sensor
• Replace missing ICP
• Replace missing IPR
• Replace missing FICM
• Replace alternator
• Replace missing Fuel Pump, new filter
• Replace fuel bowl filter
• Replace fuel bowl fuel pressure regulator assembly
• Replace battery cables
• Replace cracked degas bottle (cheap Dorman replacement)
• Replace failed Dorman bottle cap with new spare FORD cap (knew this would happen, happened on the first long drive)
• Replace missing cooling hoses
• Coolant flush
• Oil change
• Replace broken tail lights
• Replace missing cab lights
• Replace missing bed fender lights
• Replace dented front bumper metal cover with new metal unit

There's probably some small things I'm forgetting, but that's all so far. He has covered the cost of parts, but I've not billed for labor yet.

Here is what still needs to be done:

• Rebuild turbo
• Examine and test glow plugs
• Injectors (not urgent, but they're going to need attention eventually, truck is at 289,000 miles)
• Remove old carpet and replace with new
• Reinstall factory interior (after cleaning it up as best as possible, still need the brackets for the rear seat bench)
• Rebuild or replace front brake calipers (one stuck on me yesterday)
• Rework rotors (assuming no warpage and they're still within spec) or replace
• Resolve lack of parking brake
• Rewire and replace missing mirror and lock switch
• Replace passenger door lock

So, my question is this, given what I've done, and what there's still left to do (there's more than what's listed but those are glaring items) what would one expect to pay either at a dealer or a quality indy to have this all done?

Now, knowing that, what's the value of the truck in it's current state: significant hail damage, evidence of prior collision, bad paint, audio system a complete wiring nightmare, factory seats ripped and warped (looks like someone twisted the seat itself, almost) and moldy (a good cleaning will only remove the surface mold), "improper" EGR delete, missing tailgate with garbage hackjob replacement, faded headlight lenses with cracks, looming injector work, new tires, etc... list goes on. Current mileage is in the 289,000 neighborhood.

Thanks, guys!

Here's the damage from the attempted F-150 King Ranch install:











Here's the hackjob tailgate:

 

It's been a good 9 months since I've reported anything on this truck.

I ultimately got too busy with work to actually work on this thing; I couldn't keep it at the house as neighbors kept saying stupid things every time they'd walk by.

I've let the owner look to someone else to continue whatever remaining work needed to be done, and have decided to pass on ever wanting to own this particular truck. I will keep an eye out for something that strikes my fancy, but having had the chance to work on a 6.0 and drive it, I discovered they're not as horrible as people make them out to be.

Once again, I sincerely appreciate all the help, guidance, and resources I was provided to dive headfirst into this thing; I succeeded in turning a truck with which I had no prior experience with, and sat for two whole years, into a solid and reliable runner