Got it started and got it moving!! Drives incredibly smooth and the ZF6 works through the gears nicely. This thing is a night and day difference compared to my '96 and I'm actually enjoying how this thing moves down the road in the limited driving I did.

I still get a few codes, like both the Crank and Cam position sensor codes popped up, so my hunch about an injector may be correct. However, since it's first successful start, the cranking is a fast/smooth crank. I don't hear the characteristic up or down drone you would hear on a cylinder with a bad injector. It also starts without hesitation now, but we'll see how it does after sitting again for a few days.

Drove really well, no stumbling, no missing, nothing.

I am getting this issue where when I turn off the truck and attempt to start it again, the Wrench light kicks on and it won't allow the motor to turn over at all. I have to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then I can start it just fine. Forscan is also registering a PCM error when this happens, and I have trouble connecting to it to pull codes. The glow plug light will also stay on:



Here's a photo of the codes shown in Torque Pro:

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I also got a code for the EGR (this truck apparently has a delete), but that's on my laptop and I forgot to grab it off there.

P0299 is for the turbo being underboost, and you can see the pending for the P2614 and P2617 for the cam and crank respectively. My plan remains to get a compression testing gauge (going to try and find a multi-purpose kit with fittings for various diesels) and reading the compression of each cylinder just for peace of mind. I'm also thinking of yanking the valve covers and inspecting all of the injectors. Tonight or tomorrow I will change the oil.

As proof it moves, here it is next to my '96 and my green '94:

 

Wow. Honestly wasn't sure we'd see the day with how rough of shape it was in. Great job

 

Thank you. That makes two of us.

I've no prior experience working on these things, but I've learned rather rapidly. After that drive, I kinda want one...

Still have a few issues to sort out before I call it reliable for everyday driving but it should get there. I just don't know if the current owner is going to spend the money on fresh injectors.

 

So the crank and cam sensor codes have cleared themselves, might've popped again due to the extended cranking before it fired up successfully.

It started without much fuss and minimal white smoke that was gone in seconds. Changed the oil and let it warm up and gave it a good few revs and it freed the turbo right up! Code P0299 hasn't shown itself since. Interestingly, boost gauge does NOT work; would like to fix this.

I've also traced the "Wrench" to an intermittent coolant temp sensor as I get a 'Check Gauges" notification when I shut off the truck after running around in it and turning the key back to "On". The needle is pegged at the bottom and doesn't register.

I tested this by waiting for the wrench light to go away, disconnecting the sensor (it will allow it to start, weirdly enough, just tells you to check gauges), starting up the truck, shutting it off, and turning the key to "On" to be greeted by the wrench. Turn keys off, plug sensor back in, turn key on, needle registers the temp and no wrench light.

The sensor must be getting heat soaked or something, and since the PCM can't detect an ECT, it prevents the motor from starting due to believe it may have overheated. When working, it was registering temps of ~192.2°F fully warmed up and moving around or standing still.

About 1/3 of the exhaust is missing, so I'll need to resolve that:



I was able to get the HVAC system working too, just need to replace the AC compressor and the other associated missing components.

I really like this truck. I love how it moves down the road, how the turbo sounds, the responsiveness of the throttle, the 6-speed manual, etc. I just don't like THIS truck. Too many issues and not 4x4.

 

You will have a hard time finding another one with a manual transmission. The majority of them are automatics.

 

Yeah, don't I know it, or people around here want $25000 for something super lifted and decked out that's almost 20 years old...

This thing has 285,000 miles on it, by the way.

I'd be sinking a lot into fixing up the interior and the exterior... I wouldn't even know what to offer for this without feeling like I'm insulting my buddy.

 

 

Thanks. It's definitely been an adventure.

I love the blue, but I'm not really a gold/tan fan. The tan interior would also have to make way in favor of gray or black.

 

Got the glass replaced while being made aware of a rust issue:



That's a pea-sized hole at the top of the A-pillar. Similar surface rust below the paint all along the top there, but this was the only spot where it chewed through and was perhaps even leaking into the cab!

Looks better though.

 

Are these brackets still available for the front bumper? Or are there suitable aftermarket replacements? I could heat and beat these back into shape, but I don't think that's valuable use of my time...



I cut that weld, but I still can't get it to bend around the frame itself so I can straighten it out and weld it back correctly. May as well cut these off and replace them.

This is the other side:



Said "mechanic" wrecked it, but the frame didn't suffer any damage. I have a replacement stock bumper as well. Can tell the quarter panel is a cheap replacement, and there's decent overspray.

I need to find some time and cooler weather to replace the AC Compressor, and source a new evap core and flush out the lines.

Thing this is almost ready to be out of my care.

 

Got our first cold spell today, down in the 40s, figured I'd see how it starts in the cold.

Started up relatively quickly enough, but very rough, and smoothed out. Let it idle for around 5 minutes and suddenly it stalled out. No start.

ICP voltage was fine, but I discovered the IPR duty cycle was reading 89% when cranking. 85% is when the IPR closes, and that certainly shouldn't ever be happening during starting conditions. It couldn't break 400psi on the HPOP reading.

Disconnect the ICP and duty cycle percentage was around 64.9% and HPOP was reading 1496.2psi. Seems to me as though the cheap ICP has already failed, just as I said CHEAP AFTERMAKET PARTS WOULD. My understanding is that the IPR duty cycle shouldn't reach above 50% either, but this truck apparently has had some tuning done.

Plug the ICP back in and I'm right back to 83.9% and 397psi. It also threw code P2623 for Injection Control Pressure Regulator Circuit/Open citing the ICP, the IPR, and the PCM as possible issues (of course HPOP too, but I'm building pressure with the ICP unplugged, so that's good.)

Am I in fact dealing with an already shot ICP? How does one convince a person to buy MOTORCRAFT parts? IPR is a "new" Dorman unit as well, so that's probably gonna go soon too.

 

As a Ford dealership technician, my money is on the IPR valve failed as the source of your new issue. Skip the aftermarket and get the Ford/Motorcraft CM-5126 OEM unit. Don't even get me started on the first hand experiences I've had with Dorman brand parts.

 

When the ICP is connected, the voltage stays at .3V when cranking. It does not reach 1.5-1.6V like it did previously, or as it should.

I'm wondering if both are toast... if it were MY truck, I'd have gotten only Motorcraft parts. I knew I'd be having to do that IPR again...

 

Been following this thread, awesome job! And it's a 6L with a 6 speed, very sweet! IMO 6L and V10's with the 6 speeds are awesome...mine is the 5.4 with 6 speed and it's great but not as good as the 6 or 6.8...

 

Much appreciated!

Didn't get out to the truck today to pull the parts as a stomach bug hit me hard through the night. Hopefully able to get at it tomorrow.